AVS Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes the frame and plastic were the same temp as they spent over a day in my basement. I applied the plastic using Weldwood Contact Cement

as recommended by Ron. I used a portable heater to keep the room at around 70* overnight.


Basically, we applied the cement to the frame and dropped the plastic on top and then pressed it on for about 5 minutes or so. Not sure if I was supposed to be labouring on this thing for a lot longer. Ron's instructions called for applying the cement to the plastic itself - which I skipped :eek:


Can I reuse the plastic? Any advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
I think with contact cement you need to apply it to both surfaces. When you put them together, the contact cement sticks to itself. If done properly, it will stick instantly.


I ended up using a fiberglass panel glue because I wasn't comfortable with the "stick instantly" part.


As far as reusing the plastic, can you get it off the frame and reapply or is it mostly stuck on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,861 Posts
Yep, Sound like you didn't do the contact cement the right way. Not only does itneed to be applied to both pieces, it has to dry until tacky before you stick it together...probably 15-20 minutes. Maybe you did it this way, but your original post don't indicate that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great tips guys - they make perfect sense. It can easily peel off so I'll try it again this weekend. Thanks for the responses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
same thing happened to me, except i applied the contact cement to both surfaces and let stand for 15 minutes. didn't you read my warning in the other post? parkland is a risky route. it may or may not bubble on you because peopel haven't perfected the process of how to put it together. real bummer. i spent $140 on the plastic and wood, only to scrap it. what about you? i seriously doubt you're going to get it right the 2nd time around... mark my words.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
What you should do is use latex contact cement. LePage's has it it's in a green and yellow can. The problem is that regular contact cement contains MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) an extremely strong solvent, hence the bubbling. You would have to use it on both sides- I don't think you can use latex on one side and regular on the other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Right MEK will melt plastic. Another problem is that contact cement is pretty thick and difficult to spread on a large surface without gobs and lumps. I thin the glue down to almost waterlike consistency and use a mohair paint roller. The solvent I use is called contact cement cleaner/thinner by DAP. It may just be MEK under their label. The key is to get a thin even coat on both surfaces quickly. The thinned coat will dry too fast to react with the plastic. Another solution would be to buy it in the spray can version but it costs a good bit more. There is no way to reposition the material once it touches together and if you trap any air in between it is there for good. Here is a tip we use for formica (which is applied in the same way.) After the glue is completely dry set the backing board on a table or saw horses and put small thin strips of wood a little longer than the width of the screen lined up about six to eight inches apart on top of the glued surface. Contact cement has virtually no adhesive qualities when dry the wood strips will not stick to the glue. It is extremely cohesive however. The wood strips will keep the plasic sheet from touching the backer while you position. Slide the strips out one at a time working from one end to the other pushing or rolling the material in as you go. You will get it perfect the first time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Where can someone get this parkland plastic stuff?


Is there a website?


Thanks,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,010 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will try to re-glue it. I just hope the previous application isn't lumpy and becomes noticeable.


Jeff, do a search on parkland and you will find plenty info...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,309 Posts
Jeff Mills: http://www.parklandplastics.com has all the contact information. Some Home Depot and Lowes stores have the 4x8 Poly-Wall, but if you want to go bigger (5x8 or 5x10) or your local store doesn't have any in stock, you have to order direct from Parkland by calling the number on the website.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,730 Posts
After two parkland construction projects, I said to hell with it! It was always twitting and bubbling. It had hotspots etc. Like the poster above, I put about 150 bucks into two attempts.


I bought a Dalite Hi-Power from AVS (Jason Turk) instead and it is a vast improvement in picture quality and ease of use. Now, I just roll it up! No more moving it from room to room.


The cost? A little more that twice what I had in the "cheap" solutions. Don't get me wrong, the parkland is an OKAY product. It's just not as punchy of a picture that I am now seeing every day on my PLV-60!
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top