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help with 12v triggers

1909 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Socketman, Feb 19, 2014

jimmackale

Discussion Starter · Feb 18, 2014

I have 2 amps that have trigger inputs to power on from the receiver or preprossor. The problem is that my receiver does not have any trigger outputs. It has one 2-prong switched AC outlet on the rear panel but I have not seen any ac to 3.5 miniplug adapters to connect to the amps trigger input and I certainly don't want to plug my amp directly to the back of the receiver. My question is besides manually turning amps on every time I power on the system, how can i get the receiver to power on one or both amps with only the ac switched outlet on the receiver with no trigger outputs Any ideas are welcome thank you

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

budwich

· #2 · Feb 18, 2014

One "technique" for dealing with this is get a 12vdc "wall wart". Plug into the switched AVR. Then run the 12v output to the trigger inputs. Then when you switch on the avr, power comes up on the "wart" which then sends the 12v "signal" to the amp (s). You need to check whether the "trigger" operation in a "pulse / toggle control" meaning "signalling once" for "ON" and again for "OFF". If it is then this technique won't work.

IF its "continuous 12" for "ON" and loss of 12v for "OFF", then this will work.

jimmackale

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 18, 2014

]One "technique" for dealing with this is get a 12vdc "wall wart". Plug into the switched AVR. Then run the 12v output to the trigger inputs. Then when you switch on the avr, power comes up on the "wart" which then sends the 12v "signal" to the amp (s). You need to check whether the "trigger" operation in a "pulse / toggle control" meaning "signalling once" for "ON" and again for "OFF". If it is then this technique won't work.

IF its "continuous 12" for "ON" and loss of 12v for "OFF", then this will work.[/quote]

I've never seen a dc wall wart that terminates on the other end with a 3.5 miniplug jack to plug into the amp. Maybe the wall wart to usb like the phone chargers then somehow usb to 3.5 miniplug, but then im not sure of the voltages or amps that are sent through the amp.

Bill Mac

· #4 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmackale /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24374629

I've never seen a dc wall wart that terminates on the other end with a 3.5 miniplug jack to plug into the amp. Maybe the wall wart to usb like the phone chargers then somehow usb to 3.5 miniplug, but then im not sure of the voltages or amps that are sent through the amp.

Radio Shack makes a 12VDC wall wart with a mono mini plug on the other end. I have one that I used with my Onkyo 805 to trigger my amp and it worked fine with no issues. I couldn't find the model I have from Radio Shack after a quick search. But here is basically the same thing I have that is available from Electronic Surplus.

Bill

jimmackale

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 18, 2014

Radio Shack makes a 12VDC wall wart with a mono mini plug on the other end. I have one that I used with my Onkyo 805 to trigger my amp and it worked fine with no issues. I couldn't find the model I have from Radio Shack after a quick search. But here is basically the same thing I have that is available from Electronic Surplus.

Bill[/quote]

thanks Bill that sounds exactly right . I did find another solution but it is more appropriate for multiple triggers and is a bit more cash. It is a product from emotiva http://shop.emotiva.com/products/et3

The adapter on your link is 5v 600mA

The adapter from emotiva is 12v 500mA

The XPA-3 amp itself will accept 5-20v and not sure of the maximum mA allowed.

Thanks again.

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Bill Mac

· #6 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmackale /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24374937

thanks Bill that sounds exactly right . I did find another solution but it is more appropriate for multiple triggers and is a bit more cash. It is a product from emotiva http://shop.emotiva.com/products/et3

The adapter on your link is 5v 600mA

The adapter from emotiva is 12v 500mA

The XPA-3 amp itself will accept 5-20v and not sure of the maximum mA allowed.

Thanks again.

Jim,

My pleasure. The Emotiva Trigger Expansion Module looks like it will work fine. But you will still need to trigger that switch with some type of trigger from your processor. The 12VDC to mono mini plug would I believe work fine with the ET-3. Do a google search for the ET-3 as you might find a used one on places like Audiogon or the Emotiva Lounge Emporium.

Bill

Socketman

· #7 · Feb 18, 2014

The Et3 comes with the 12v adapter

budwich

· #8 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmackale /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24374629

]One "technique" for dealing with this is get a 12vdc "wall wart". Plug into the switched AVR. Then run the 12v output to the trigger inputs. Then when you switch on the avr, power comes up on the "wart" which then sends the 12v "signal" to the amp (s). You need to check whether the "trigger" operation in a "pulse / toggle control" meaning "signalling once" for "ON" and again for "OFF". If it is then this technique won't work.

IF its "continuous 12" for "ON" and loss of 12v for "OFF", then this will work.

I've never seen a dc wall wart that terminates on the other end with a 3.5 miniplug jack to plug into the amp. Maybe the wall wart to usb like the phone chargers then somehow usb to 3.5 miniplug, but then im not sure of the voltages or amps that are sent through the amp.[/quote]

I think the "idea" was that you could easily change the connector / cable on the "wall wart" by simply wiring in the appropriate connector... I guess that might be a "stretch".

Bill Mac

· #9 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socketman /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24375025

The Et3 comes with the 12v adapter

That is used to power the switch. What I was referring to is a 12VDC to mono mini plug used to trigger the switch (from the processor outlet) which in turn will trigger the amp(s).

Quote:
Originally Posted by budwich /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24375040

I think the "idea" was that you could easily change the connector / cable on the "wall wart" by simply wiring in the appropriate connector... I guess that might be a "stretch".

I'm sure you can do that. The wiring in these devices is fairly thin so be careful. Also make sure you have the polarity right.

Bill

Socketman

· #10 · Feb 18, 2014

This from the emo website.'

If you're using a device such as a receiver that does not have a trigger output, simply plug in the included power adapter to the switched output of your device, and your triggered accessories will turn on and off with the switched outlet./p>

jimmackale

Discussion Starter · #11 · Feb 18, 2014

Bill[/quote]

That is used to power the switch. What I was referring to is a 12VDC to mono mini plug used to trigger the switch (from the processor outlet) which in turn will trigger the amp(s).

I'm sure you can do that. The wiring in these devices is fairly thin so be careful. Also make sure you have the polarity right.

The processor has a switched outlet on its back panel that will power on/off anything plugged into it as the receiver is turned on or off. So I think both the ET-3 or the adapter from Bill's link would work just fine as is without any tricky wiring.

To power one amp through the trigger i would use Bill's adapter and for multiple amps the ET-3 trigger. I had never before seen an adapter like the one Bill found and since his worked exactly like I would use it for, its a good find for little money.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

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Socketman

· #12 · Feb 18, 2014

At one time all recievers had a switch outlet but they slowly vanished requiring more creative methods. One such method is a power sensing power strip. I use one these to turn on a light behind my tv when my tv comes on.

Richard

Bill Mac

· #13 · Feb 18, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socketman /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24375614

This from the emo website.'

If you're using a device such as a receiver that does not have a trigger output, simply plug in the included power adapter to the switched output of your device, and your triggered accessories will turn on and off with the switched outlet./p>

Richard,

My bad

. Sorry about that I should have read that in the ET-3 listing.

Bill

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fatbottom

· #14 · Feb 18, 2014

What cable do I need from Lexicon MC-8 trigger output to ATI 1807? Mono headphone cable, stripped at one end?

jimmackale

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 18, 2014

]What cable do I need from Lexicon MC-8 trigger output to ATI 1807? Mono headphone cable, stripped at one end?[/quote]

From other avs posts

You don't need anything special for a 12-volt trigger connection. ANY 2-wire cable will do -- even two separate pieces of wire although that looks sloppy. It doesn't have to be shielded or fancy or expensive. It doesn't carry a lot of current.

Different equipment has different connections for their 12 volt triggers. Some use clamps that hold bare wire ends. Some want a mini-jack as typically found on cheap audio equipment for mono-audio sound.

Check both pieces of equipment to see how they want the trigger wire to connect. If both use bare wire end clamps, then you could just use a length of spare speaker wire between them. If both use mini jacks, buy a cheap, mono mini to mini cable of the right length from Radio Shack. If one end wants a jack and the other wants bare wire then buy that same Radio Shack cable and snip off the plug at one end to expose the bare wires at that end.

Some 12 volt triggers don't care about polarity. If yours does, be sure that the two wires are connected to the correct side of the hookup at both ends.

--Bob

Sorry to bump an old thread but I have a quick question. Say I buy a mini-mini cable to use but I need bare wire on one end and I strip the plug off on one end. How do I know which is the + and - wires?

Typically, ring is negative and that is usually the shield while the tip is positive and that will be the center insulated wire.

Just make sure I would strip one end and check with a muti meter.

Hope this helps .Also, the back of the Lexicon might be labeled + or - and if your lucky the exposed wires from the cut end might be color coded copper/silver or red/black insulation

Jim

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Socketman

· #16 · Feb 19, 2014

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac /t/1518438/help-with-12v-triggers#post_24375850

Richard,

My bad

. Sorry about that I should have read that in the ET-3 listing.

Bill

No worries, I get caught speed reading all the time.I had to go back and read it again, I thought I had been caught again lol.

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