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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I'm looking for any and all advice on building my theater. I have been taking notes as I read an endless sea of threads. I appreciate whatever insight you can offer.


Here is a little background....


1. I will use this set-up for 90% movies and sporting events, 5% games, 5% music.


2. I do have a budget, hence the Epson 8350 and Polk speakers. I would like to keep the remainder of my equipment in that range.


3. I have 10 foot ceilings in the basement but have a beam running over the back row of seats. The post marks the 2nd beam by the screen. I will coffer the area between the beams.


The "P" marks the planned spot for the projector:




My notes to date:

Equipment

Projector – Epson 8350 placed 13ft back from screen

Screen – Fixed Frame

Receiver – TBD

Front Speakers – Polk Monitor 70 SII

Center Speaker – Polk Monitor CS2 SII

Surround Speaker – TBD

Sub-woofer - TBD

Stage

Fill stage will sand bags

Carpet with dark color

Screen

AT Screen Considering VAPEX 100’’ or 106’’

Fixed Frame w/ velvet bevel

Paint area behind screen or cover with GOM

Riser

Power to center of riser on back wall

CAT6 (x4) to riser on back wall

Prewire back wall for 7.1 surround

Fill riser with insulation

Include lights on riser step

Projector

Include power outlet in ceiling for projector

CAT6 (x2) to projector

HDMI (x2) to projector

Run 2 inch PVC tube from storage area to projector in ceiling

Ceiling – 8ft high along outer edges, coffer to 10ft in center of room

Paint dark color (black if wife allows) using flat paint

Insulate ceiling

Lighting – Each category independently controlled

#1 - Can lights in raised ceiling

#2 - Sconce lights on pillars

#3 - Small canned lights between pillars

#4 – TBD LED Lights around inside of coffer ceiling


Acoustical Treatments

TBD after install



Sound proofing notes:

Dynamat Extreme

Replace metal HVAC runs with flex duct

Insulate under steps to main floor
 

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I would make the riser 1 ft deeper and go with an AT screen like you asked about yesterday. If budget is the issue, buy the fabric from Seymour and make your own frame, there are numerous posts on this approach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/19630939


I would make the riser 1 ft deeper and go with an AT screen like you asked about yesterday. If budget is the issue, buy the fabric from Seymour and make your own frame, there are numerous posts on this approach.

Why would you make the riser 1 ft deeper? The reason I ask, I'm concerned that would put the front row to close to the screen.


As for the screen, can you help me understand the benefit of an AT screen versus the one I am currently considering?


Thanks for your time.
 

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AT is acronym for Acoustic Transparent. An AT screen allows you to put your speaker behind the screen, the benefit of doing that is that you can go a larger and wider screen and the look is cleaner since you don't have the speakers clog the front unless you show off the nice speakers that you have.
 

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Having the center channel located at the center of the screen anchors the dialog as if it is coming from the actors. Also a lot of guys tuck the center channel just beneath the screen and the sound is often blocked for those sitting in the second row.


On the riser topic in planning theaters of this size my personal rule of thumb is to place the riser at 12 ft from the screen. You will find that a 6 ft deep riser is 6 inches short of what you need for reclining theater seating. You should also go with a 110 inch screen at those seating distances. I had a 100 at slightly shorter and it was too small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm still chewing on the AT screen...part of me is worried about seeing the pattern of the AT screen and losing picture quality. However, I like the idea of hiding the speakers behind the screen and being able to place the center channel at a height that projects dialogue from a "natural" position relative to the action on the screen.


For now, I'm going to request a few samples of AT material.


I'm still looking for other suggestions or tips to maximize my build.
 

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Is soundproofing a goal? If so, better to have that figured out now while it's easy. Ventilation and doors figure heavily in this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/19640851


Is soundproofing a goal? If so, better to have that figured out now while it's easy. Ventilation and doors figure heavily in this.

To some degree yes...does it need to be 100% locked down, no. Excluding the basement, the house is 4,300 sq ft and the theater sits over a space in the house that gets little use.


Looking at the diagram, the left and rear walls are the foundation of the basement. The front wall (screen) bumps up against dead space of storage and mechanicals. Even 50% of the right wall will be a dead space for storage and base of the stairs leading to the main floor...which I will have access to post construction.


All the walls are going to be insulated...and I plan to do the same for the ceiling (which is my biggest concern). I have a HVAC line that runs into the room and up into the main floor. I'm still trying to put my finger on the best way to keep sound from leaking out via the metal duct work.


As for the door, I planned to go with a solid core...if that is not enough, and to be honest I don't know, then I will apply some type of sound treatment to the door.


Sorry for the long read...if you think this will fall short by all means please let me know!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine
The primary focus of sound isolation is lowering the noise floor in the room to less than 22dB (your very quiet house is likely in the area of 33dB). The mechanical room next to your proposed space will be an issue.
I agree...that is why I placed the screen on that side of the room. At least that is a storage room and I build up as much sound proofing as needed...and it can look ugly...without it being seen by anyone.


Do you have any recommendations to help lessen the impact?
 

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A picture of the area would help in identifying what soundproofing measures you could take. Without knowing more you could consider a simple staggered stud wall. double layers of drywall on both sides, insulation, Green Glue dampening between drywall layers. Avoid cutting any holes in the wall for outlets.


Next you need to look at the ceiling and other walls as the noise might come up and over any great wall you build (Flanking). The furnace should be sitting on a cork isolation pad.


Lastly if you are using that furnace to heat/cool your theater you need to address the ducting which will act as sound pipes. Bringing in furnace noise and letting theater sounds migrate to the rest of the house.


You can read more in the library of articles at soundproofingcompany.com
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mutheater
I'm still chewing on the AT screen...part of me is worried about seeing the pattern of the AT screen and losing picture quality.
Buy a 2x2 ft sample of the material from SeymourAV. Shine your projector on it and take a look. Of the 5 local theaters I've been to with AT screens I've never heard a complaint from any of the NoVA home theater builders club. I switched from a Stewart Firehawk screen to a SMX woven screen and as far as I am concerned I think the image improved. It has more pop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC
A picture of the area would help in identifying what soundproofing measures you could take. Without knowing more you could consider a simple staggered stud wall. double layers of drywall on both sides, insulation, Green Glue dampening between drywall layers. Avoid cutting any holes in the wall for outlets.


Next you need to look at the ceiling and other walls as the noise might come up and over any great wall you build (Flanking). The furnace should be sitting on a cork isolation pad.


Lastly if you are using that furnace to heat/cool your theater you need to address the ducting which will act as sound pipes. Bringing in furnace noise and letting theater sounds migrate to the rest of the house.


You can read more in the library of articles at soundproofingcompany.com
I just got the wife a new Nikon 3100 and she is looking for any excuse to snap some pictures so I will post some of the space later tonight.


I would like to thank you for your time and patience....I'm behind the curve and have until the first week of January until framing starts, not to mention a baby due any day. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here are some pictures of the space.....while the beams are an annoyance, they make for a natural boundary for the coffered ceiling.


Please share any suggestions you have on the space!


Looking from seats to screen:




From screen area to seats:
 

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After looking at the pictures and the plan again I'm not convinced you are making the best use of your overall space. Do you have any plans drawn and pictures of the rest of the basement?


Your initial plan shows a very wide space and you may want to think about reversing or even rotating it 90 degrees. How many seats were you planning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/19655276


After looking at the pictures and the plan again I'm not convinced you are making the best use of your overall space. Do you have any plans drawn and pictures of the rest of the basement?


Your initial plan shows a very wide space and you may want to think about reversing or even rotating it 90 degrees. How many seats were you planning?

The perfect place for the theater in on the other side of the stairs but that entire side of the basement is going to be one big open space that is at least 50x20. However, the wife got negative feedback when we sold her old house the basement was divided into several rooms.


With this in mind, she wants to keep the larger section of the basement as one big open room...it is a trade off. I get this space and my theater equipment to do with what I please.


The room is not wide enough to rotate the layout 90 degrees. This picture shows the width comes from removing the extra studs before the stairs

 

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I have an idea but I need to know what else were you planning to put in the room and how many seats do you want? Will you have a refreshment area anywhere else in the basement?


Do you happen to have a drawing of the bottom of the stairs relative to the theater and the existing equipment space showing dimensions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/19656899


I have an idea but I need to know what else were you planning to put in the room and how many seats do you want? Will you have a refreshment area anywhere else in the basement?


Do you happen to have a drawing of the bottom of the stairs relative to the theater and the existing equipment space showing dimensions?

I plan on putting up columns to hide the surround speakers....other than that, I only plan to put in 2 rows of seating per the drawing. The back row was designed for 3 seats plus an end table and 4 seats in the front row with 2 end tables.


All the equipment was planned to go on the shelf in the picture next to the mechanicals.


The bottom of the stairs are directly to the right of the post where this drawing stops at the 24 ft mark (L-R)




This photo shows the post in question (the mechanicals are directly behind me in the photo) and the door/stairs leading to the main level of the house.




Again, I appreciate your time and input.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo /forum/post/19655473


Also, what will you be using the Dynamat Extreme for?

I'm also curious about that
 
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