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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the relevant equipment:


- Yamaha RX-V2400 receiver (crossover options are 40, 60, 80, 100, 110, 120, 160 and 200Hz. LFE/Bass Out options are SUBWOOFER ONLY (all LFE and low-freq signals to the subs only) or BOTH (LFE signals to the subs, other low-freq signals to both the subwoofers and the other "LARGE" front channel speakers)). Speakers can be specified as LARGE or SMALL (I think y'all know what this does).


- Front L&R = NHT VT-1.4 (8" side-loaded subwoofer (biamplifiable), two 4.5" midranges, 1" aluminum dome tweeter, 33Hz-25KHz, internal crossover is 125Hz 12dB/octave high-pass and 12dB/octave low-pass)


- Front Center = NHT VS-1.4 (80Hz-21kHz)


- L, R and C rears = NHT SuperZeros (85Hz-25Hz)


- NHT SA-2 amp for biamping the VT-1.4s (Continuously variable low pass crossover: 35-150Hz, 18dB/octave, Selectable


high-pass crossover: 50, 75, 100Hz, 12dB/octave if you want to send the high-pass stuff back to the receiver/amp)



SO, the plan is to remove the jumpers from between the binding posts of the VT-1.4s and biamp them. The fact that the VT-1.4s, the SA-2, and the Yamaha all have crossovers and other options makes me wonder exactly how to optimally set this up. I was going to list all of the possible combinations but there are so many that I figured the gurus would know the best way to do it simply by looking at the variables.


Many thanks,


Bruce...
 

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any luck on the bi-amping? I am also curious about how this works. I have a 1400 and would like to bi-amp my front channels.


I am somewhat unclear on the true advantage of this as far as power goes...it seems that feeding unfiltered channels into each set of inputs (2 sets of posts on the mains, one high and one low) will just cause the extra frequencies to be filtered out, effectively wasting extra power on frequencies that are never intended to be used...but maybe I have the wrong idea?


Any insight would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SI, sorry but I haven't received any other replies here and haven't had time to set this up and try all the different options.


Putting it down on paper it looks like the best answer probably is:


1. Set the Yamaha crossover at 120Hz (closest thing to the 125Hz internal crossover of the front mains).


2. Set all speaker types to SMALL in the Yamaha


3. Set the SubOut option on the Yamaha to SUBWOOFER ONLY, since all speaker types are SMALL anyway.


4. Set the low-pass crossover in the SA-2 to to 150Hz (or anything higher than 120Hz).


This should result in anything about 120Hz going out to the top half of the front mains and all other speakers. Everything below 120Hz will be sent to the SA-2 and off to the 8" woofers in the bottom half of the front mains.


This is going to leave a gap between 120Hz to 125Hz but it seems like the best option that I can see right now.


Any and all opinions appreciated,


Bruce...
 

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My RTi 150 mains crossover at 85Hz for driver/woofer, so I'd have something different. But I was thinking of trying the extra two channels on the Yamaha for the amp, not a seperate amp. I only have a 5.1 setup so I was thinking the extra two channels could drive the lower section of my mains for some added power.
 

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Still have my 1400 in the box, haven't gotten a chance to play with it, but thinking more and more I may have no real good reason to keep it...the Onkyo 601 is turning out to be good enough for what I need, not really any extra headroom, but its played continously at good volumes without problems. (overloaded in one instance, but volume was at 95 with bass maxed out on a bjork track, just to see what limits were....was like heavy machinery...took that for punishment for a minute and a half too, and definitely beyond any sane normal usage requirement for me)


This bi-amp possibility was something I was really hoping would work out and a big reason I was looking at the upgrade, just because it would be cool to have 110x2 into my big RTi150 mains. I am a newbie to audio equipment setup, so perhaps someone can tell me if the following idea has any merit:


I was thinking perhaps a way to get more benefit from using the extra channels for a bi amp would be to use the equalization settings to bias the channels. Set the high frequencies (say over 120Hz) to -12db, or whatever the lowest setting is. Connect this channel to the bottom of the speaker which is crossed over at 85Hz. Do the same for the top, but instead turn down the low frequencies (say less than 80Hz). Would a scheme like this increase the total effective power into the speaker? I know it would not be as ideal as discrete amps, but would it let me have some added benefit from the unused rear channels? A problem I see with this is enabling a stereo mode with 4 channels on...I read a post on here that said the 1400 supported bi-amping, but I still can't tell if this is true or if I am way off...
 
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