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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Price Theater Build 2.0

Add me to the list of 2.0 theater builds. We sold our house and moved into a new one. The previous owner finished the 'theater' room to the drywall/paint stage but never installed any equipment. Unfortunately he built these pockets into the side of the room that take up 18" and are going to be an acoustical challenge. After hemming and hawing (never typed that out before) I've decided to tear them out. Figured I would post some before pics. Useable space right now is 12'8" by 18'6". Should end up with 14'x18'6".

Side note, been shopping for chairs, was about to give up and wait, but then found these on clearance at a local Haverty's. I felt much more at ease buying chairs I could sit in, and if I have problems I have a local person I can deal with. Not to mention I saved a little over $1000 off the MSRP. Win! They had a curved row of 4 and I bought a straight row to go in front. Took delivery yesterday. Now I can set them up and plan out my riser.

Here are some pics of the front wall, right wall, and back. The left is just a wall. The plan is to tear out the pockets and put up a new wall on the right. Then double drywall and green glue the ceiling. The left wall is a non-load bearing wall with poured concrete behind it. It's not attached to the concrete as far as I can tell. The rear wall backs up to our mechanical room, it's not bearing any load either, not attached to the floor joists above it. The equip rack will go in the back left corner with the backs sticking into the mech room. The front wall leads to storage area, load bearing, but it has a header in the middle of it like they planned double doors. I may look into this further as a recess to hide speakers. The right wall goes to the hallway, it is a load bearing wall. I have some joist tape to put up on that one before the new drywall goes up. May do a false wall or double drywall there since the wall goes up to the kids room above.

My only soundproofing concern is the ceiling. Kids room is directly above. I know there is one layer of R-19 batting in the ceiling. I'm tempted to poke some holes and stuff/blow more insulation in there before I install the second layer of drywall. I know the 'best' is to tear it all out and go with hat channel, but I'm really not digging that right now. Thoughts?
 

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sound to the upstairs won't only go through the ceiling. it will go up inside the walls the principle is called flanking. Save your money on the extra insulation it won't make a bit of difference in the low frequency rumble that will disturb your kids.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Made some progress. The reciprocating saw is my new best friend.

Equipment is also nearly finalized:
Marantz 7009 (plus an old Sony AVR to drive the second pair of overhead speakers.
7.2.4: Axiom M60s, VP160, in-ceiling M3s, and on wall M3s or M2s.
SVS PB2000x2. Speaking of which, the UPS driver just dropped these at our garage door, didn't knock or ring the door, and left them outside right behind my wife's 3500 van. She could have very easily backed over them. Fortunately I saw them and brought them in ep before it rained or anything else happened to them.
PJ will likely be Epson 5030, which is what I had to leave behind. Seems no one really updated any of the ~$3000k Pjs this year.

Found the Axiom speakers on sale in their 'scratch and dent' B store at a significant savings. I didn't want to pass up on them, so I ordered the LCR. They also had a promotion going on the new ceiling speakers so I bought those. I have 30 days to trial them, and since they shipped I went ahead and bought my AVR from AV Science. Which meant I went ahead and ordered the subs so I could trial everything together.

The speakers look a little funny flanking my 50" plasma, but I had to start somewhere.

Absolutely thrilled with everything I packed them back up and moved on to demolition. Pockets are out. I left the mini cans in the soffits. I'm going to seal up and cover the cans in the ceiling. I'll add more mini cans to the left hand side soffit (which I'm gonna bring down 3.5" to make them symmetric and that should do it for lighting.

I can't find a dry waller willing to take on such a small job, so it'll be me. Hopefully next week I'll get started. Gotta order some more green glue...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, iPad upload failed. Here's a few pics. Got the kiddos involved in demolition (and cleanup) as well. Broke my 5lb hammer with "Genuine American Hickory" handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, demolition and everything is done. I found a reasonable drywall quote and decided to go ahead and GG/DD all the walls. I already had to pull the crown down for the ceiling, just pulled the rest of the baseboards (half of which had to go anyways for the riser. I had to move the HVAC return up a bit too to accommodate the riser. Ran wires for my 4 ceiling Atmos speakers and hid wires in the side walls for the surrounds. The rear wall is still accessible so I'll just wait to add my rear surrounds.

I decided to seal up the existing can lights in the ceiling, didn't want to punch a bunch of holes in the doubled up ceiling, so those will be patched and covered and I added some 4" cans to the other soffit, and brought it down 3.5" to match the other. I split the lights into front/back so I can completely turn off the front cans and then dim the back ones as much as needed for folks to see their seats. I used the soffit to run all my wires front to back and added a PVC conduit for any future cabling needs.

Drywall next week, then riser/trim/treatments...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's what I'm thinking for the room. 7.2.4 setup. The Top Front and Top Rear are equidistant from the MLP, 35 degrees- within the Atmos recommendations. The acoustic panels will be 3" deep, filled with OC insulation (or some similar material). Riser is 12" tall, 78" deep. I plan on adding vents along the edges. Bass traps in the corners. Subs will be placed according to acoustics, but for the sake of the model they are symmetric.

Two rows of 4 for the seats.

MLP is 11.5' from either a 110" screen (I have one left over from prior theater) but I have room for 120" or maybe bigger. We'll see. Not sure if the jump from 110 to 120 is worth buying a new screen since I already own the 110.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not that anyone is following along, but I'll at least chronicle the process. Almost finished the riser this weekend, got a couple of hours I could sneak down to the theater room. 1x12s for the perimeter, 1x8's as the joists, 16" OC. I needed one more roll of insulation and decided to stop until I could get some more. To be followed by two layers of OSB.

Going to DIY the screen with material from Seymour AV, not AT Glacier White, 120". It'll be the least expensive thing in the room.
 

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Your room is similar size to what mine will be.. Can't wait to see how it turns out.. I like your posters saw them in the other thread over the weekend..
 

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Riser is done. Hung most of the trim today, hoping to finish the crown tomorrow. Picking out paint colors will be the next step. I've got a bunch of samples to try out- but dark walls with lighter trim. Black front wall and ceiling, unless the wall color is dark enough to use up front as well. I think I've settled on a 120" screen. Gotta order that next.
 

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The space gained from ripping those useless alcoves out is certainly worth the effort.
Given the chance to do it all over again, what are the things that you are doing differently from your first theater?
I have been waffling over starting again myself, not because of a move, just to gain a better space and do things correctly this time.
Going with the diy material from Seymour is a smart choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The first room was more of a media/family room. Speakers had to be concealed (I built them into cabinets, which killed the subwoofer), retractable screen, minimal acoustic treatments. The room was also 16x16x8, a nightmare acoustically speaking. I had some bad room nodes.

Different: two subs for the price of one. Instead of one $1300 sub I have two $700 subs. I anticipate a much better response across the room.

Speakers can be out in the open. The prior fronts were made to be in cabinet, but there were still compromises

Room treatments: I'm putting in bass traps and wall treatments.

Soundproofing: GG and DD. Last time was just lots of insulation in the walls and ceilings. Last night I was using the miter saw and my wife directly above me couldn't hear anything.

Theater seats instead of a sofa. Adds to the cool factor if nothing else.

I'll know more in a few weeks, but I anticipate a much better listening environment.
 

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The first room was more of a media/family room. Speakers had to be concealed (I built them into cabinets, which killed the subwoofer), retractable screen, minimal acoustic treatments. The room was also 16x16x8, a nightmare acoustically speaking. I had some bad room nodes.

Different: two subs for the price of one. Instead of one $1300 sub I have two $700 subs. I anticipate a much better response across the room.

Speakers can be out in the open. The prior fronts were made to be in cabinet, but there were still compromises

Room treatments: I'm putting in bass traps and wall treatments.

Soundproofing: GG and DD. Last time was just lots of insulation in the walls and ceilings. Last night I was using the miter saw and my wife directly above me couldn't hear anything.

Theater seats instead of a sofa. Adds to the cool factor if nothing else.

I'll know more in a few weeks, but I anticipate a much better listening environment.
Thanks for the excellent response. A very telling observation regarding your sound proofing efforts. My first theater has bass-traps, room treatments and more optimized speaker locations than yours did, but soundproofing is definitely on my 2.0 list. As for the reclining couch, it will always be a part of any theater room I build, cool or not. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A little progress today. Had to watch some football which kept me from getting further. Trim is done. I had to get creative with the 16' pieces of crown. I did start painting the in-ceiling Axiom M3s. The trim and ceiling will be 'greenblack' from Sherwin-Williams. It's basically black with just a touch of green. Two light coats with the airbrush tonight. Hopefully I'll finish these tomorrow and get the trim painted. I'm spraying on an oil base on the trim. I hate brush marks.
 

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