Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV Tweaks Thread
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It would be a good idea to post all the important stuff, such as where to get manuals and some of the default settings in the first post, and update it as necessary. Keeps people from having to read through EVERY post to get to the good stuff.
Like this information:
Press and hold the MENU key on the TV control panel, then press the REMOTE CONTROL'S MENU+8+SELECT buttons.
To EXIT Adjustment mode, press the INPUT key on control panel, or the EXIT key on the remote.
DCAM Mode:
On the REMOTE Control:
Hold down the TV key
Press the MENU key
Press the INFO key
Release the TV key
REMOTE CONTROL KEY FUNCTIONS WHEN IN DCAM MODE
INPUTS - Blue (13x9 adjust)
ASPECT - ROM Write
DAY/NIGHT - ROM Read
MENU - Remove Color
EXIT - Cross Hatch/Video Mode
INFO - Green
GUIDE - Calculation
2 - Cursor UP
5 - Cursor DOWN
6 - Cursor RIGHT
4 - Cursor LEFT
0 - RED (7x5 Adjust)
STOP KEY - Initialize
PLAY KEY - Raster Position
FAST FORWARD KEY - Phase
To get out of DCAM Mode:
Hold TV Key
Press 0 Key
Press 1 Key
Release TV Key
Use at your own risk. Always write down settings before making any changes!
Where to get the service manual: ServiceManuals.net
Some Informational PDFs and Docs:
Hitachi DCAM Manual
Hitachi DIY Guide
Lens Striping information:
Advanced Lens Striping
It would be a good idea to post all the important stuff, such as where to get manuals and some of the default settings in the first post, and update it as necessary. Keeps people from having to read through EVERY post to get to the good stuff.
Like this information:
Press and hold the MENU key on the TV control panel, then press the REMOTE CONTROL'S MENU+8+SELECT buttons.
To EXIT Adjustment mode, press the INPUT key on control panel, or the EXIT key on the remote.
DCAM Mode:
On the REMOTE Control:
Hold down the TV key
Press the MENU key
Press the INFO key
Release the TV key
REMOTE CONTROL KEY FUNCTIONS WHEN IN DCAM MODE
INPUTS - Blue (13x9 adjust)
ASPECT - ROM Write
DAY/NIGHT - ROM Read
MENU - Remove Color
EXIT - Cross Hatch/Video Mode
INFO - Green
GUIDE - Calculation
2 - Cursor UP
5 - Cursor DOWN
6 - Cursor RIGHT
4 - Cursor LEFT
0 - RED (7x5 Adjust)
STOP KEY - Initialize
PLAY KEY - Raster Position
FAST FORWARD KEY - Phase
To get out of DCAM Mode:
Hold TV Key
Press 0 Key
Press 1 Key
Release TV Key
Use at your own risk. Always write down settings before making any changes!
Where to get the service manual: ServiceManuals.net
Some Informational PDFs and Docs:
Hitachi DCAM Manual
Hitachi DIY Guide
Lens Striping information:
Advanced Lens Striping
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9 Posts
Bumpski....
Here is my little contribution to the site. I've created these screen jigs based on the specs in the service manual.
You should be able to get them printed at any reputable print shop. I've sourced a shop locally that can do it rather inexpensively.
One thing to make sure is that they do not scale the documant at all. If they do, the template will not work. If you have any suggestion or requests for changes, let me know.
As a note, I am considering getting these printed and mailing them out as a service for those of you who don't want to get them printed yourselves. If you are interested, PM me and I can get accurate pricing.
Enjoy.
51F59-ScreenJig.pdf 177.408203125k . file
57F59-ScreenJig.pdf 173.3154296875k . file
65F59-ScreenJig.pdf 173.060546875k . file
You should be able to get them printed at any reputable print shop. I've sourced a shop locally that can do it rather inexpensively.
One thing to make sure is that they do not scale the documant at all. If they do, the template will not work. If you have any suggestion or requests for changes, let me know.
As a note, I am considering getting these printed and mailing them out as a service for those of you who don't want to get them printed yourselves. If you are interested, PM me and I can get accurate pricing.
Enjoy.
51F59-ScreenJig.pdf 177.408203125k . file
57F59-ScreenJig.pdf 173.3154296875k . file
65F59-ScreenJig.pdf 173.060546875k . file
Sorry about that, I should have mentioned in the post that you should get it printed on transparent Mylar. It's a clear plastic like material that usually comes in 36" rolls. Any shop that does printing for CAD should know what it is.
As for me shipping it out, It would depend on the size of your screen, but it would be between $55 to $75 shipped, which is cheaper than buying one of the official jigs. I'm going to the printhouse this week, so I'll get more detailed info while I'm there.
As for me shipping it out, It would depend on the size of your screen, but it would be between $55 to $75 shipped, which is cheaper than buying one of the official jigs. I'm going to the printhouse this week, so I'll get more detailed info while I'm there.
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1,840 Posts
Interestingly enough, I did get a response back from SimplayHD about why there were no DVD players listed at their site.
The reason was, there were NO DVD Players that were submitted for testing that PASSED!
For obvious reasons, they can/will not post the failing machines. All I can tell you is that the F59 series does pass their testing for HDMI compatibilty, with the other devices that are on their list.
The reason was, there were NO DVD Players that were submitted for testing that PASSED!
For obvious reasons, they can/will not post the failing machines. All I can tell you is that the F59 series does pass their testing for HDMI compatibilty, with the other devices that are on their list.
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363 Posts
This is what I thought all along. Otherwise why would ANY HDMI device work on this set?
yea for copywrite protection !!!
This is what I thought all along. Otherwise why would ANY HDMI device work on this set?
yea for copywrite protection !!!
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45 Posts
Geometry errors are adjusted in service menu, correct?
-Funk
-Funk
DCAM mode in conjucntion w/ the correct screen jig being used. Lee Bailey listed an on-line source for one that's a bit cheaper than the "official" Hitachi part.
Another post here from cavery has a "homemade" jig (taken from the Service Manual's jig illustrations/dimensions) that can be taken to a print shop.
DCAM mode in conjucntion w/ the correct screen jig being used. Lee Bailey listed an on-line source for one that's a bit cheaper than the "official" Hitachi part.
Another post here from cavery has a "homemade" jig (taken from the Service Manual's jig illustrations/dimensions) that can be taken to a print shop.
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184 Posts
Will I need to go through and make all those adjustments in the DIY guide when I first get my set?
Does the magic focus actually work?
Do those setting work for HD,SD and regular channels?
Should I use those settings with the Lee Bailey setting from the big thread?
Will I be constantly tweaking this TV?
As someone getting ready to purchase their first HD set I find all this info a bit intimidating. I am used to plugging everything in a making a few sound and picture tweaks.
I realize I am asking a lot of questions here but I just want to do things the right way and get the best pq I possibly can out of this set.
Thanks to all of you who are so helpful. A site like this is dream come true for someone who is unfamiliar with all of the technical aspects of these sets.
Does the magic focus actually work?
Do those setting work for HD,SD and regular channels?
Should I use those settings with the Lee Bailey setting from the big thread?
Will I be constantly tweaking this TV?
As someone getting ready to purchase their first HD set I find all this info a bit intimidating. I am used to plugging everything in a making a few sound and picture tweaks.
I realize I am asking a lot of questions here but I just want to do things the right way and get the best pq I possibly can out of this set.
Thanks to all of you who are so helpful. A site like this is dream come true for someone who is unfamiliar with all of the technical aspects of these sets.
I find all those service menu adjustments a little too daunting and am afraid of screwing it up. I just got the TV this weekend and overall an very happy with the picture. I am using Lee Bailey's basic settings. Rome, Sunrise Earth, basketball and hockey all looked great. On a few shows, like Sportscenter, it was not quite as good. On my Samsung 30 inch that show looked as good as anything, on this set it's just a little bit off, just a bit grainy on some studio shots. I believe ESPN is 720p and the TV always 1080i, should I turn off 720p on the cable box? Regardles, is this grainyness a convergence issue or something else? Adjusting the sharpness didn't seem to help and I don't have edge enhancements or anything like that turned on.
Re the service menu, are there some basic and simple adjustments I can make without getting into too much detail? Turning off the red push seems easy enough. I don't seem to have any geometry issues, maybe overscan can be adjusted a bit horizontally. I did not see how to do that in the files posted above. When I go into the 9 and 117 point convergence menu everything is white, does that mean there is nothing to adjust there?
I'm thinking of having a pro come in at some point, if I do that and spend a couple of hundred dollars, will he have to come back again in a year?
Re the service menu, are there some basic and simple adjustments I can make without getting into too much detail? Turning off the red push seems easy enough. I don't seem to have any geometry issues, maybe overscan can be adjusted a bit horizontally. I did not see how to do that in the files posted above. When I go into the 9 and 117 point convergence menu everything is white, does that mean there is nothing to adjust there?
I'm thinking of having a pro come in at some point, if I do that and spend a couple of hundred dollars, will he have to come back again in a year?
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363 Posts
If it looks good to you dont worry about tweaking everything. Personally all Ive done is the most simple of service menu tweaks to mine. Changed colorg to 01 to fix the red push and changed statg2 to 00 to tame the overly bright whites. These were the only tweaks I found that truly needed to be done. IMO of course. Besides that all other adjustments were made in the regular video menu.
My overscan seems fine. Nothing is ever cut off in the corners. So I dont worry about that eventhough I know I could reduce it more, but why ? It looks great now.
117pt con. Yes you want the blue and red lines to hide behind the white lines as clean and tight as you can get them. Note. Blue will always be fuzzy. Thats on purpose.
Im sure I could go all out like some people have , but I really am satisfied the way this set looks pretty much out the box. And I currently have no issues I want to correct. At some point I will get a pro calibration just to see how good this thing really can get. But Im in no hurry.
How do you have your cable box set to output ? You mention 720p with ESPN. Your cable box should be set to output all HD material to 1080i. This should help, but ESPN is a nototiously bad HD station.
If it looks good to you dont worry about tweaking everything. Personally all Ive done is the most simple of service menu tweaks to mine. Changed colorg to 01 to fix the red push and changed statg2 to 00 to tame the overly bright whites. These were the only tweaks I found that truly needed to be done. IMO of course. Besides that all other adjustments were made in the regular video menu.
My overscan seems fine. Nothing is ever cut off in the corners. So I dont worry about that eventhough I know I could reduce it more, but why ? It looks great now.
117pt con. Yes you want the blue and red lines to hide behind the white lines as clean and tight as you can get them. Note. Blue will always be fuzzy. Thats on purpose.
Im sure I could go all out like some people have , but I really am satisfied the way this set looks pretty much out the box. And I currently have no issues I want to correct. At some point I will get a pro calibration just to see how good this thing really can get. But Im in no hurry.
How do you have your cable box set to output ? You mention 720p with ESPN. Your cable box should be set to output all HD material to 1080i. This should help, but ESPN is a nototiously bad HD station.
I had done the colorg to 01 change but after reading this I did the statg2 to 00(factory setting was 03) and re-did the Avia adjustments in the regular menu. It is outstanding to me from just those things. Now I'm going back and forth as to whether or not to get it calibrated. Part of me says it can't get much better and another part says if just those few adjustments made that big of a difference how good is it going to be with a calibration?
I had done the colorg to 01 change but after reading this I did the statg2 to 00(factory setting was 03) and re-did the Avia adjustments in the regular menu. It is outstanding to me from just those things. Now I'm going back and forth as to whether or not to get it calibrated. Part of me says it can't get much better and another part says if just those few adjustments made that big of a difference how good is it going to be with a calibration?
Just a heads-up to those who are contemplating getting cavery's cool screen jig pdf's printed themselves---
I recently inquired with my local FedEx/Kinko's about getting a jig made for my 51". Don't know if this is the case chain-wide, but locally, Kinko's does not have transparent mylar rolls for their AutoCAD machines. They do have vellum paper rolls. Vellum is fairly translucent, but not transparent. Kinko's gave me a small piece of vellum which I took home and placed on my screen while in DCAM mode (w/ green isolated). When placed firmly on screen, the green lines shine thru very well. Looks that vellum will work fine, although mylar would sill be the #1 choice if available.
Just download the appropriate size jig from cavery's link, burn it to cd-rom and take to your local shop. A 51" vellum is going to run me around 30 bucks US.
The Canadian (I believe) on-line source for screen jigs that Lee Bailey found a while back has the option of either vellum or mylar--with vellum a bit less $$.
Just a heads-up to those who are contemplating getting cavery's cool screen jig pdf's printed themselves---
I recently inquired with my local FedEx/Kinko's about getting a jig made for my 51". Don't know if this is the case chain-wide, but locally, Kinko's does not have transparent mylar rolls for their AutoCAD machines. They do have vellum paper rolls. Vellum is fairly translucent, but not transparent. Kinko's gave me a small piece of vellum which I took home and placed on my screen while in DCAM mode (w/ green isolated). When placed firmly on screen, the green lines shine thru very well. Looks that vellum will work fine, although mylar would sill be the #1 choice if available.
Just download the appropriate size jig from cavery's link, burn it to cd-rom and take to your local shop. A 51" vellum is going to run me around 30 bucks US.
The Canadian (I believe) on-line source for screen jigs that Lee Bailey found a while back has the option of either vellum or mylar--with vellum a bit less $$.
The following is from a PM conversation I've been having w/ cavery this week regarding his screen jigs. For those who are considering getting/using a jig and have either tweaked/plan to tweak their set's overscan, you should read this:
I have to warn you. If you use this template, your overscan will change. The geometry and the overscan pots are connected. By that I mean if you line up the geometry based on the jig and then adjust the overscan pots, you are changing the size of the DCAM grid. Therefore, if you make any changes to the pots after convergence, your grid won't match the template anymore.
On the other side of that, if you then went in and re-matched the grid to your jig, your overscan would go back to where it was before you adjusted the pots which would definitely stress the convergence IC's.
Hitachi's official grid dimensions will give you about 5 - 5.5% left/right and about 3.5 - 4% top/bottom.
jwebb1970 add-on (seems like an acceptable overscan amount to me, btw)
Because of that, here is how I would approach it.
1. Set overscan pots to factory specs (this ensures that your overscan voltage is within the recommended limits. If you have already adjusted your pots and skip this part, there is a definite chance that you might stress and shorten the life of your convergance IC's)
To do this you need to turn on the TV, press the blue service button and the MUTE button on the remote at the same time.
This will bring up the overscan measurement screen. What you are concerned about here are the green lines. You'll need to measure them horizontally and vertically.
Horizontally, you need to measure the lines from end to end and adjust the pot. When the pot is set correctly the length should be:
51" = 1070mm +/- 5mm is ok or 42"
57" = 1195mm +/- 5mm is ok or 47"
65" = 1365mm +/- 5mm is ok or 53.75"
edit: for those w/o metric measuring tape--or just abhor the metric system, inches conversion are also listed (rounded within the +/-5mm tolerance per the service manual)
For the Vertical adjustment you need to measure the vertical distance of the two lines from each other at thier closest point. Both lines curve towards each other. Measure it at the closest point (should be near the center). When adjusted properly it should measure:
51" = 560mm +/- 5mm is ok or 22"
57" = 625mm +/- 5mm is ok or 24.5"
65" = 710mm +/- 5mm is ok or 28"
Again, this procedure puts your overscan voltage back into the factory recommended range.
Once that is done, you are ready to do the convergence/geometry adjustment.
2.Start by clearing the DCAM data (hold the blue service button while you power on the tv).
This will bring up the DCAM grid in it's totally uncorrected state (all curved lines). From here start by lining the green up to the grid using raster, 3x3, 7x5, 13x9, etc. Then do red and blue.
jwebb1970 add-on #2 (The service manual suggests that once green is lined up to the jig, you should write that data to ROM. This will lock in green geometry to memory. After that, you can remove the jig from the screen and then continue with lining up red/blue using the same order of operation--raster, 3x3, etc---then writing THAT all to ROM and reinitializing Magic Focus. This step is not actually necessary, but if something were to happen --power loss, accidental unplugging, etc.---during red/blue lineup, you'd still have the corrected green in memory. More of a time-saving insurance policy should something go bad)
It took me about an hour to an hour and a half to finish.
jwebb1970add-on #3 (Same here-green will eat up most of the time, it seems)
From here, if you want to adjust overscan further, you will have to go back in and adjust the pots. If you do do this, you will change the size of the DCAM grid and it will no longer match the screen jig. If you keep your adjustments small, it shouldn't change the actual geometry, but you will have to re-align red and blue.
Hopefully this helps and is easy to follow. Again, if you have any more questions drop me a line.
Cheers,
Cory
This same info is found in the F59 service manual, just put into a bit more understandable language courtesy of cavery (Cory). I strongly recommend having the service manual on hand prior to attempting this. If for no other reason, you will have pictures of what the overscan screen (called horizontal/vertical size adj screen in the SM) and uncorrected DCAM grid look like if you have never seen them before.
Of course, if you have the 20+ yrs of calibration experience someone like Mr Bob-for example-has, you can just eyeball all of this w/o the use of any screen jig.
My Jedi powers are nowhere near those of Bob, unfortunately.
![]()
Doubt most brave (or foolhardy) AVS FORUM DIY'ers visual acuity is, either.
So, I'll be "doin' a jig".
I have to warn you. If you use this template, your overscan will change. The geometry and the overscan pots are connected. By that I mean if you line up the geometry based on the jig and then adjust the overscan pots, you are changing the size of the DCAM grid. Therefore, if you make any changes to the pots after convergence, your grid won't match the template anymore.
On the other side of that, if you then went in and re-matched the grid to your jig, your overscan would go back to where it was before you adjusted the pots which would definitely stress the convergence IC's.
Hitachi's official grid dimensions will give you about 5 - 5.5% left/right and about 3.5 - 4% top/bottom.
jwebb1970 add-on (seems like an acceptable overscan amount to me, btw)
Because of that, here is how I would approach it.
1. Set overscan pots to factory specs (this ensures that your overscan voltage is within the recommended limits. If you have already adjusted your pots and skip this part, there is a definite chance that you might stress and shorten the life of your convergance IC's)
To do this you need to turn on the TV, press the blue service button and the MUTE button on the remote at the same time.
This will bring up the overscan measurement screen. What you are concerned about here are the green lines. You'll need to measure them horizontally and vertically.
Horizontally, you need to measure the lines from end to end and adjust the pot. When the pot is set correctly the length should be:
51" = 1070mm +/- 5mm is ok or 42"
57" = 1195mm +/- 5mm is ok or 47"
65" = 1365mm +/- 5mm is ok or 53.75"
edit: for those w/o metric measuring tape--or just abhor the metric system, inches conversion are also listed (rounded within the +/-5mm tolerance per the service manual)
For the Vertical adjustment you need to measure the vertical distance of the two lines from each other at thier closest point. Both lines curve towards each other. Measure it at the closest point (should be near the center). When adjusted properly it should measure:
51" = 560mm +/- 5mm is ok or 22"
57" = 625mm +/- 5mm is ok or 24.5"
65" = 710mm +/- 5mm is ok or 28"
Again, this procedure puts your overscan voltage back into the factory recommended range.
Once that is done, you are ready to do the convergence/geometry adjustment.
2.Start by clearing the DCAM data (hold the blue service button while you power on the tv).
This will bring up the DCAM grid in it's totally uncorrected state (all curved lines). From here start by lining the green up to the grid using raster, 3x3, 7x5, 13x9, etc. Then do red and blue.
jwebb1970 add-on #2 (The service manual suggests that once green is lined up to the jig, you should write that data to ROM. This will lock in green geometry to memory. After that, you can remove the jig from the screen and then continue with lining up red/blue using the same order of operation--raster, 3x3, etc---then writing THAT all to ROM and reinitializing Magic Focus. This step is not actually necessary, but if something were to happen --power loss, accidental unplugging, etc.---during red/blue lineup, you'd still have the corrected green in memory. More of a time-saving insurance policy should something go bad)
It took me about an hour to an hour and a half to finish.
jwebb1970add-on #3 (Same here-green will eat up most of the time, it seems)
From here, if you want to adjust overscan further, you will have to go back in and adjust the pots. If you do do this, you will change the size of the DCAM grid and it will no longer match the screen jig. If you keep your adjustments small, it shouldn't change the actual geometry, but you will have to re-align red and blue.
Hopefully this helps and is easy to follow. Again, if you have any more questions drop me a line.
Cheers,
Cory
This same info is found in the F59 service manual, just put into a bit more understandable language courtesy of cavery (Cory). I strongly recommend having the service manual on hand prior to attempting this. If for no other reason, you will have pictures of what the overscan screen (called horizontal/vertical size adj screen in the SM) and uncorrected DCAM grid look like if you have never seen them before.
Of course, if you have the 20+ yrs of calibration experience someone like Mr Bob-for example-has, you can just eyeball all of this w/o the use of any screen jig.
My Jedi powers are nowhere near those of Bob, unfortunately.
So, I'll be "doin' a jig".
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