[Grinchyy]

Hello, and thanks to all whom have posted so many helpful tweaks for Hitachi RPTV's.


Here is my story:

I started DCAM after reducing overscan (with the new DVE). I fixed a few

minor problems with geometry then did the convergence.

After I was done I pressed PIP Mode twice, then I pushed Mute then something funny happened and the convergence was all messed up. Magic Focus only gave me "Static Mode".


I read about the blue button, pressed it and got back into DCAM. I got the original settings back, then performed all the steps properly and somehow the whole thing was messed up. Mainly the geometry was good on the left edge but seemed to evenly stretch all the way to the right causing about 15% of the picture to be stretched off the screen.


I tried unsuccessfully to get the geometry back to the factory settings, no joy! So I dove in and created a string template similar to other users. I had to move some of the lines more than an inch over to get it close to normal, this made me nervous. After I got the geometry lined up as good as I could with my homemade template I converged the red and blue and saved it.


After I powered up the TV magic focus worked as planned, but I did notice that the convergence did not stay dead on so I performed DCAM 2 more times and I still don't get a perfect convergence. I also checked the overscan after the geometry tweak and discovered I was about 5% all around. Not bad for my first time without a template, I think.


I also did not read enough and could not figure out how to get the DCAM into the medium or course modes, so I did the entire geometry fix in fine mode and I am pretty sure that the lines are not completely strait. I now know how to get into the medium and coarse modes, I will use this when I get the template.


Here is the funny part. When I am converging the set in DCAM or the user level manual mode I am able to converge perfectly on the grid. But there seems to be a problem with the convergence in some areas in-between the individual grid lines. For example on the left bottom side, the cursor for the convergence is good in the middle but the little bars that are on the left and right are out of convergence. This means to me that I have areas in-between the grid that are not converged (some areas not all over) and I don't know how to fix it!


I attached a picture below of one trouble spot.

I WILL BE ordering a geometry template for my TV and I just ordered the service manual also, as I too am obviously a tweaker.


What I basically want to know is this: could the fact that the convergence is bad in some places in-between the grids (where I can't fix them) be caused from moving the geometry so drastically in the fine mode? There are some slightly noticeable flaws with my geometry correction, hence the need for a good template.

Any suggestions would be great!

 

[Grinchyy]

Here is a good (center screen) picture of the cursor.

I was also curious, it states that in order to get into the coarse mode (3x3) that it only works when DCU is in the uncorrected state. How do I get into the coarse setting for larger settings?

 

[Addicted Help!!]

that your 65 inch hitachi doesn't suffer from what everyone I ever saw in Houston did last year,in that horrible haze over the screen where it never imaged close to intended specs. I wanted 65 so bad and was lucky to get a full refund on that puppy after months of fighting . I got used to my 57 and hope eventually they overcome it. We locally concluded it must be batch runs because here they all look like absolute crap, and yet people other places like them to often for them to possibly look close to what we got here.


It also looked horrible in 720p where the 57 looks the best that I have seen other then a native set in that format.

 

[Grinchyy]

Just a note, the set was performing wonderfully, before I messed with it. I am still very happy with the set, and am sure that a tech can undo my mess if I can't fix it myself.

 

[muzz]

I have run into the same issue, after doing the exact same thing ( with a 57S700)......


I really dont want to hit the blue button and start all over, but I have no more dynamic mode it seems.

Magic focus will only do static, and no matter what I do I cannot seem to access the dynamic modes, I see the dynamic(with the horizontals) for a fleeting second when trying to get in, but then it proceeds to go to the v/h lines.... I have noticed that I can hit menu( or was it pip) and get the grid(with no horizontals) and I can change the red and blue, I can move the lines also....

It seems I cannot save anything( like I would want to anyways. grrr) though.....

It looks much better now than it did B4 I started, but I will need to access dynamic again.....

I cannot get into DCAM, and I think that blows.......

GRRRRR


I DID notice that when using the channel buttons(up/down) it will move the cursor around for you starting at the center, and it does an ever widening square for convergence though, so i HAVE learned something I did not know B4 this hassle...

 

[Grinchyy]

Mfusick, Marc Alexander, help I need your brains....


Anybody know about this:

What is the calculate step supposed to do at the end of each color? (SM says to 'Press the remote VID 3 button to Calculate points in between the adjustment points' at the end of EACH color in both the 7x5 and 13x9 modes.)





-muzz

Hitting the blue button will not hurt anything, it should bring you back to where you were originally doing DCAM.

 

[muzz]

Thanks Grinchyy,


I will NOT be doing it B4 the SB thats for sure.


I didn't know you were to save between colors, I have looked around for the SM for the 57S700, yet I cannot find it it seems........

Are any of the other manuals the same for the most part (obviously not exactly the same)? If so which one, I'll get it.

 

[Grinchyy]

OK, for those who may be able to help me I have confirmed that I am able to properly converge on the convergence lines, but some areas on the screen between the convergence lines the red will not converge. I have pressed the video three button to Calculate points in between the adjustment points, but this did nothing.

I am nervous now, do I need to Correcting the voltage as stated in another post?

Thanks...

 

[Grinchyy]

I ordered my geometry template and SM. I will be sending the DCU into the uncorrected state (zeroing the convergence) then correctly setting the size pots, then setting the convergence back to the factory specs, then finally properly converging the red/blue guns. Thanks to gambrelw for all his advice.


Anyone else had this problem as stated on my first reply? I am hoping this will fix my problem.

 

[HD4Life]

Anyone know if the Hitachi 65swx20b's DVI input is HDCP compliant..?


I am thinking of gettting the Denon 5900 to hook up.


thanks

 

[Grinchyy]

Yes, it is. I had a Samsung DVD-HD931 (total crap) hooked up to it.

Sounds like a Denon 5900 will be a wise choice. Enjoy!

 

[HD4Life]

Thanks Grinchyy, could you tell me if you noticed a difference in the pictuer quality using the DVI..? or is that just another marketing ploy for us to go out and get another dvd player.

 

[Mfusick]

Quote:

Originally posted by Grinchyy Yes, it is. I had a Samsung DVD-HD931 (total crap) hooked up to it.

What was crap about it?

 

[Mfusick]

 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=18203



WOW-


This is UGLY!


Looks like you have some work in the DCAM to do.

 

[Grinchyy]

Yes, it does look like crap. Any idea why it might be converging OK on the lines but not inbetween the lines?

I have the geometry template sitting downstairs, and still waiting for the service manual to arrive.


On the Samsung, well here is what I wrote in another thread:

Quote:

Originally posted by Grinchyy I feel your pain, I too rangled with one of these units for about three months, back and forth to the service shop it went. The first problem I had with the first unit was that it too was pixelating and freezing during certain titles. So I sent it into the service shop and they said they played 8 hours of movies on it continuously and could not reproduce the problem. The disks that I was having problems with were brand-new with NO scratches on them. So I returned the unit for another one at my local retailer. The second unit had the other problem of stretching the picture of the right side of the screen in 720 or 1080 mode. The setup menu was missing the "DVI Mode" feature. This gives the choice of mode "A" or mode "B" which they explained fixed a screen bias problem. I checked the overscan on my tv and it was 5% all around. So they sent me a firmware upgrade for it. I popped it in and let it do its thing. It "said" that the update was successful, then I powered up the machine and went into the setup menu, then the screen, or display, I can't remember now, so I selected the DVI mode "B". Every time I would select mode "B" the unit would freeze up. So off to the service shop this one went. They told me that they had to replace an "electrical part", whatever that meant. Finally I got that unit back from the shop and I finally had a working unit! So I used it for about a week and finally got tired of dealing with the ultra-crappy remote and looking at all the fuzzy artifacts in the "HD" mode, so I sold it. I think I will wait until the technology advances to an acceptable level before I invest again. Long story short, I have the firmware update in zip format (40 megs) if anyone wants it... It is also on emule listed as: Samsung_HD931_Firmware_Update_with_MagicIso.rar PM me /w your e-mail and I will send the file to you if you like. Good luck!

They only look good on fixed pixel displays, and I prefer my Hitachi.

 

[Grinchyy]

I thought the HD931 looked like crap, with alot more grainy look. But if you have a fixed pixel display (DLP, Plasma, LCD ect..) you mite have a better looking picture.


I should mention that the color was better with the DVI, the whites are better and the colors more rich, but the grainy look didn't appeal to me.

 

[Doug Schiller]

Odd, I have the Sammy HD931 hooked to my 51SWX20b via DVI and it is almost flawless.

The picture is shifted slightly in 1080i mode but that is minuscule compared to the improvement over any progressive scan player I have tried.


To each their own I guess.


Doug

 

[Grinchyy]

Just my opinion.


Thats great, sounds like you have a player that has no problems. Samsung has firmware to fix the picture shift. Check to see if you have a "DVI mode" selection in the display setup menu, if not, you need the upgrade. This was missing from a batch of players delivered last year between March and May.


The original intent of this thread seems to be lost, please go here and view my struggle with objectivity.

Samsung HD931 Problem Thread

 

[aschneid]

I'm sorry to hijack the thread again, but I have a question that I cannot find an answer via the search about DVI on a 65SWX20B.


Can you have a piece of hardware hooked up to the DVI input and another hooked up to the component #1 input, and the TV use whichever one is active?


Now, back to the geometry issue.


Thanks,

Andrew

 

[neilaevans]

Quote:

Originally posted by aschneid I'm sorry to hijack the thread again, but I have a question that I cannot find an answer via the search about DVI on a 65SWX20B. Can you have a piece of hardware hooked up to the DVI input and another hooked up to the component #1 input, and the TV use whichever one is active? Now, back to the geometry issue. Thanks, Andrew

On my 57x500 that's exactly how it works...which was very handy when I was going back and forth trying to decide between using DVI or component on my HD receiver. I just hooked up both the DVI and component cables to input 1 on the tv and could switch back and forth just by selecting dvi or comp on the receiver.


I don't know if that's how I would want to hook things up permanently however, because your DVI source and your component source probably need slightly different picture settings to look their best.