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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to this forum and I've been trying to keep tabs on everyone's experience with the Samsung HLM507W DLP but I don't think most are having the problem I am so here goes my question ...


Does anyone have issues with people's faces on this TV? I first noticed it with a rental of the movie "4 Feathers" and thought it was just the DVD. Then I noticed it with LOTR in some limited scenes. I've found it with Gladitor (ch 25 - when Comidus turns and speaks with city in background) and most recently with The Matrix (first scene where Trinity and Neo speak - in the crowded bar).


It looks like the TV has trouble with the color of the person's face. Instead of showing any kind of detail it looks like, for lack of better word, splotchy. It's similar to the effect you get when looking at pictures on a PC with the resoultion down very low.


I'm really starting to worry about this. At times the detail is amazing, and then something like this happens. I wonder if it has anything to do with my non-progressive scan DVD player, but I've read some posts where people are actually turning progressive scan OFF on their DVD players.


Anything I can do to test this to verify if I have a problem with my set? Anyone else see this problem?
 

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I saw the same thing when I got my hln61w. That was very annoying. I changed the gamma setting from 4 to 0 and used Video Essential to calibrate the set. I also I let my DVD player send the progressive signal and use the progressive input. Now, the picture looks MUCH better. I think this set has a lot of potential and I'll continue to tweak it.


You should try both interlace and progressive component inputs to see which one is better for you.


Good luck.
 

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When I first started to tweak my 437 I found an adjustment that had quite a bit of an affect on this. I do not have my notes with me but I think it was DEFAULTLAY in the DDP1010 menu. I believe this is a color wheel delay to time the mirrors to the proper color wheel filter position. When you swing this setting up and down and look for changes you see colors move all over the picture. I ultimately moved it up until I noticed a change and than lowered it until I noticed another change. There was quite a bit of good picture between. I left it set between these two positions (probably centered on the color filter chip). If its too far one way or another I believe the the mirrors are reflecting two colors instead of one for some of their on time.


Just a thought,


Ray
 

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PretzelB,


I'm more optimistic than Supertoyz. This TV has several "features" that we all could do without, as does any TV, but blotchy faces needn't be one of them!


1) are you using Component video cables to the TV's Component 1 input? This should provide the best PQ (unless you have a way to get the DVD signal to the TV's DVI or VGA input, which would be even better)


2) in addition to changing Gamma to 0 in the SM, change BLIM, BSTPO and BKAKOU to 0 also. This improves black levels and shadow details, which lets you improve gray scale, which improves color rendition.


3) then calibrate with VE or AVIA (get AVIA if you're unfamiliar with tweaking TV's, it has great explanations of everything).


4) I'm one of those whose DVD player is so bad at deinterlacing that I get better PQ sending 480i to the TV; YMMV, so try both; whichever looks best to you is best!


My PQ improved substantially after these steps. For example, in the extended edition of LOTR:FOTR, I used to get blotchy, "sunburned" faces on some of the hobbits in the scene during Bilbo's voiceover. After I took the measures above, the problem went away altogether.


Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 

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Rbuchina,


I think you're the first person here to have the courage to touch that setting! I take it your set didn't blow up, and that you actually improved PQ. If you post your results on one of the calibration or tweaks threads, you'll probably get lots of responses and interest in what you did. Might make you a hero (if that appeals) :)
 

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Doug Deacon,


I tried moving just about every setting except the AUTOCOLOR. Someone cautioned on this back when the PB sets were first being delivered last November. Of course you need to record the original settings to return if needed. I did learn quite a bit from all the info posted on this forum. I really have not been in the service menu since just before the Super Bowl. I'm quite pleased with PQ now.


Ray
 

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Yeah, I remember the discussion about AUTOCOLOR. The only guy who touched it had a set that was going back for some other problem, and changing AUTOCOLOR turned out to be a bad idea.


My only SM tweaks are the ones I posted above. Haven't been there in months, like you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sigh.


Well I guess the good news is that it's something I can fix. The bad news is that I need to get into some serious tweaking. I have glossed over most of the posts on calibration because it is over my head. It looks like I may need to go back and learn though. First step sounds like finding the previous posts on calibration and learning about things like Avia.


FYI - I have my Pioneer DV333 (not a progressive scan player) connected to component 1 on the set so it should be good quality. I may look at the new DVI player that Samsung has coming out later.


Thanks all. Looks like I need to go to school.
 

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PretzelB,


Don't despair, learning is always good! At least you'll be able to impress your friends at the next cocktail party.


The thread linked just below will show you how to safely/properly access the Service Menu. Don't read the whole thread(!), just the "how-to" parts of the initial post. You can also ignore his suggested settings, which were all early guesses before anyone had calibrated their DLP's.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ggested+tweaks


Just change Gamma and the three B* settings I suggested to 0 after entering the SM from the DVD input.


Then adjust your UM. Put Picture Mode to Custom and Color to Warm1.


Then adjust Contrast/Brightness/Color/Tint using AVIA (best choice for a newbie, because of its excellent explanations). You can get a copy at Amazon.com, well worth it.


Set Sharpness to 0 also. Useless adjustment on a DLP.


Welcome to the TV Tweakers club, and enjoy the show!
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Deacon
I think you're the first person here to have the courage to touch that setting!
I messed with DEFAULTLAY quite a bit when I was trying to tweak away the temporal dithering motion artifacts. Changing the setting didn't help in that case.


IMO, PretzelB you can decrease the banding a bit by performing the recommended SM tweaks. I'd definitely recommend it.
 

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You-know-who rushes in where angels fear to tread!
 

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Hmm... Looks like the B* settings are not on the N series. This must be specific to hardware on the M series. I did play with the Y_OFFSET, CR_OFFSET, and CB_OFFSET. Cool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So, I guess this means there isn't a reset option on this set? Most electronics seem to have a way to restore to factory defaults. Makes even more nerve wracking with no safety net.
 

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PB,


That's correct, so write down all your defaults before you change anything.


Note: in many cases the SM remembers different values for different inputs. If you enter the SM while the TV is on Component1, some sub-menus will have different values than if you enter the SM while the TV is on Antenna1 or DVI. This lets you optimize the display for each input and the equipment connected to it. (No two DVD players are the same.) To be safe, enter the SM from each input you intend to use and record all the SM defaults for that input seperately.


Jolly good fun, ay?
 

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DueN,


The B* settings are on the MN82860 chip, which the HLN sets no longer have. Makes those of us who have HLM's wonder whether to upgrade to new internals when that offer is finalized. Will we lose control over black levels? Does Samsung's replacement DNIe chip have some other adjustment? Does it not need one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Fun?? Sure, if you like taking chances with your $3000+ toy. Kind of like playing with electricity.


It just occurred to me that I didn't not see this issue with my DVD at the store. They were using a newer DVD player (Pioneer Elite) but I'm pretty sure it was an HLM507W.


I will copy down the instructions and give it a try this weekend.
 

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Don't worry, if you only change Gamma and the three B* settings, you can't break anything.


Consensus here is that there's little point in fine-tuning until your lamp has 25-50 hours on it. It takes a while for a new lamp's output to stabilize.


Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, I finally got around to changing my settings. Here's what happened:


Changed the gamma from 4 to 0. I was going to change the B* settings too but I don't have them. This was very confusing because of Doug's post saying that the HLN's don't have this chip. I did a double check to make sure that I have an HLM507W and sure enough, that's what the sticker says. Not sure what this means.


Well, after changing the gamma I didn't see as much banding but it does appear too dark. The scene in the Matrix where Trinity first meets Neo is very dark. Also, the scene in LOTR where they walk thru the mines and Gandalf decides to "risk a bit more light" to show the huge columns is very difficult to see.


In the end, I've put it back to gamma 4. I'm going to see how much this bothers me before trying to change it again.


One thing I did notice is that I have my DVD player on 16:9 instead of 4:3. I don't know if this makes a difference.
 
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