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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to the guys for helping me re-learn some of the basics and figure out that LC sheimpflug. Simple enough once you get the hang of it. I took a few hours tonight to tweak the astig, mechanical and electric, re-do the focus, flapping and then color balance using my spyder (and repeat, you know how it goes). I mean.. wow. The 8000 was great, but the 8500lc is amazing. I am sure the 9500lc is better still but this set is pure awesome.


The only problem I have now is that everything is so sharp the scanlines are visible and it looks "digital", probably due to it being interlaced. I am considering switching to 1080p
(when the new moome hdmi shows up at I can at least check it out and see if it is too soft)


The change to LC completely removed the halos around bright objects. It is not a subtle difference in my opinion and everything just looks a bit more real.
 

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I am finding this out as well setting up my blend. I just have the 9500LC roughly set up and you can tell the difference with the halos, non existent!!! Aslo the HD10L i have on for now till i get the HD10F's on a re a big big improvement over the HD144's I have on my 8500, and that was a huge improvement over the HD8's. So i can imaging the jump from Hd8 ac machine to a HD10 LC machine.


Athanasios
 

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not sure where this machine came from but make sure to check the P14 voltage. It wasn't a problem on the 8000's but a lot of 8500/9500 have this time bomb inside them.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by draganm /forum/post/15473662


not sure where this machine came from but make sure to check the P14 voltage. It wasn't a problem on the 8000's but a lot of 8500/9500 have this time bomb inside them.

Buzz killer
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
LVPS was from an ultra i believe. I kept looking for the little adjuster to see which one was on there and couldn't find it. So I pulled out my old lvps to remind myself where it was located. There is is... wait, thats a circuit with "stuff" on it in the new one and no adjuster.


Measured p14 is spot on perfect.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot Kight /forum/post/15481593


a circuit with "stuff" on it in the new one and no adjuster.Measured p14 is spot on perfect.

that's good, those power supply's are certainly the better ones to have. Reason I asked is that there;s been a couple more "P14 tragedies" lately. Curt posted a story recently about an Ultra that someone had put the old defective LVPS in, needless to say the tubes are gone.


now all you have to worry about it your bellows and glycol leaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hah thats one good thing about a ceiling mounted setup. You know the glycol is leaking because it is dripping on your head, not the circuit board




Scot
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scot Kight /forum/post/15470516


The only problem I have now is that everything is so sharp the scanlines are visible and it looks "digital", probably due to it being interlaced. I am considering switching to 1080p
(when the new moome hdmi shows up at I can at least check it out and see if it is too soft)

This also my question... I am running at 1080i72. I see the scan lines. How do I get rid of them? I cant get the video card to display at 96. I have a GT8500 from MSI with and HDMI built in.


-Greg
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistagreg /forum/post/15521560


This also my question... I am running at 1080i72. I see the scan lines. How do I get rid of them? I cant get the video card to display at 96. I have a GT8500 from MSI with and HDMI built in.


-Greg


Run [email protected] and the image will be very film like, i am also going to check out a mod for using [email protected] 72 from my lumagen to the marquee, as of right now the marquee can not squeeze the image down enough for this res

from the lumagen, with the same mod to get the anamorphic mod but a different value resistor change the marquee will be able to squeeze down the 817p image for scope movies giving it the correct aspect ratio.


Why 817p or 800p x 1920 @ 72 you ask? this is called active area scanning. On scope movies the only part you really want you PJ to scan is the Movie, the "active" part. Why waste your PJ's and scalers bandwidth on the black areas above and below the active area(movie image). With this resolution your VP and PJ will only scan and scale the active area saving bandwidth to use for a higher refresh rate like 72hz.


One flaw of the mighty marquee was its original board design only allowed for a limited size adjustment but one great thing about the marquee is its very easy to modify this by a simple resistor change, most allready have the anamorphic mod done but to get it to go even further with the Lumagen

you need another change of those resitors. i still have to test this but it should work and [email protected] from the lumagen will be output to the marquee.


once i get the correct resistors and change them i will try it and report back.


Athanasios
 

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either run 1920x800p or run 1920x1080i compressed to 2.40:1, both look amazing and 2.40:1 setups are all the rage and with good reason, it is awesome


how times change, I remember 2.5 years ago when I posted I was going to do a true 2.40:1 setup and raster size on my then 1352LC, people said I was crazy



-Gary
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Murrell /forum/post/15521991


either run 1920x800p or run 1920x1080i compressed to 2.40:1, both look amazing and 2.40:1 setups are all the rage and with good reason, it is awesome


how times change, I remember 2.5 years ago when I posted I was going to do a true 2.40:1 setup and raster size on my then 1352LC, people said I was crazy



-Gary

Not only that, but you get to use your tube TWICE!!!!!!!! One 2:40 setup on the top, and one 2:40 setup on the bottom.



Cliff
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by overclkr /forum/post/15527504


Not only that, but you get to use your tube TWICE!!!!!!!! One 2:40 setup on the top, and one 2:40 setup on the bottom.



Cliff

those that are smart enough get to, of which I am not



-Gary
 
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