small screen for a 2 row theater with the captains chair at 12' 8"
Home Theater Build Feedback
Looking for general feedback on my home theater design. Liberally modeled off of HT 1.0. Thanks!
Room
11’ 2” x 23’ 4”
Height of 7’ 6”
Support beam protrudes ~8” from the ceiling about halfway through the length of the room (~15’ 7” from the front wall)
Design
29” Acoustic Baffle Wall
Top of Screen Height: 6’ 2”
2 Rows; 3 seats in front; Barstools in back
Row 1 Viewing Distance: 10’ 1”
Row 2 Viewing Distance: 13’ 5”
Enclosing the wall opposite the screen by 4’3” for AV and networking racks - with appropriate ventilation.
Equipment
100” 16:9 Seymour AV Precision
LG CineBeam HU810PW or Optoma UHD50X
Speakers - 7.4.4
Electric
15A outlets, lighting, projector, networking rack, other misc equipment
20A front and rear subwoofers
20A AV rack
Powerbridge like connection for projector (to allow for plugging into a power conditioner/protector)
I welcome any feedback, but had the following questions at the top of my list:
Room
11’ 2” x 23’ 4”
Height of 7’ 6”
Support beam protrudes ~8” from the ceiling about halfway through the length of the room (~15’ 7” from the front wall)
Design
29” Acoustic Baffle Wall
Top of Screen Height: 6’ 2”
2 Rows; 3 seats in front; Barstools in back
Row 1 Viewing Distance: 10’ 1”
Row 2 Viewing Distance: 13’ 5”
Enclosing the wall opposite the screen by 4’3” for AV and networking racks - with appropriate ventilation.
Equipment
100” 16:9 Seymour AV Precision
LG CineBeam HU810PW or Optoma UHD50X
Speakers - 7.4.4
Electric
15A outlets, lighting, projector, networking rack, other misc equipment
20A front and rear subwoofers
20A AV rack
Powerbridge like connection for projector (to allow for plugging into a power conditioner/protector)
I welcome any feedback, but had the following questions at the top of my list:
- Play quite a few video games, so I was looking for a projector that had low input lag. Based on initial research, the Optoma UHD50X seemed like a reasonable option? I know this is probably a large question, but what am I missing out by choosing this over something like the LG CineBeam HU810PW?
- For both the projectors listed, acceptable throw distance ends up somewhere around the second row. Would it make most sense to place the projector above the row. Any other acceptable positions (noting the support beam requires the project to be a little lower from the ceiling than usual).
- I sometimes play older consoles that require wired controllers. What would be the easiest way to add something like this to my setup?
- Is it safe to use powered subs behind insulation (aka behind a baffle wall)
- Do powered subwoofers need to be power conditioned/protected? If so, how would this be done for the front subwoofers?
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
@BIGmouthinDC What would you recommend? How are you going about calculating it?
What consoles specifically do you play? Their may be wireless/extension cord options for the console. Have you also considered the Epson 5050ub for gaming? Its got good input lag but I think is superior to the Optoma for movie watching (if you game almost exclusively then the Optoma is probably a solid choice).
@BIGmouthinDC Thanks for the clarification. Kept my screen size the same but updated the row distances:
Row 1 Viewing Distance: 10’ 1”
Row 2 Viewing Distance: 13’ 5”
My rational for not enlarging the screen instead to keep about 17" or clearance each side of the screen to account for the subs — I've read that screen vibration may occur if the subs are behind the screen.
@MikeD66 I play mostly current gen consoles and online and FPS genres (which are the main culprits requiring low input lag) aren't usually my focus. My movie/video game ratio is around 50/50. I think you're right that extension cords or wireless adapters should work in most cases — that's probably the most practical option. Wasn't sure if there was some streamlined solution where equipment in the front could easily be routed to the rear where I plan to place my AV rack.
Thanks for the Epson 5050ub I'll take a look at it!
Row 1 Viewing Distance: 10’ 1”
Row 2 Viewing Distance: 13’ 5”
My rational for not enlarging the screen instead to keep about 17" or clearance each side of the screen to account for the subs — I've read that screen vibration may occur if the subs are behind the screen.
@MikeD66 I play mostly current gen consoles and online and FPS genres (which are the main culprits requiring low input lag) aren't usually my focus. My movie/video game ratio is around 50/50. I think you're right that extension cords or wireless adapters should work in most cases — that's probably the most practical option. Wasn't sure if there was some streamlined solution where equipment in the front could easily be routed to the rear where I plan to place my AV rack.
Thanks for the Epson 5050ub I'll take a look at it!
Are you planning a solid baffle wall with speakers peaking out though openings or an acoustically transparent screen wall and screen?
Sorry, I should have specified that in my original post. I’ll be using an acoustically transparent screen wall and screen.
FPS online, definitely the Optoma is better. Some people do 2 projectors (one for gaming and one for movies but definitely a lot more expensive).
In regards to cabling, it seems like once everything is in the rack (receiver, consoles, etc.) then a wireless solution should work fine. Maybe I am not understanding correctly, but the PS4/5 and Xbox series all have wireless controllers so it shouldn't matter where the consoles are located.
In regards to cabling, it seems like once everything is in the rack (receiver, consoles, etc.) then a wireless solution should work fine. Maybe I am not understanding correctly, but the PS4/5 and Xbox series all have wireless controllers so it shouldn't matter where the consoles are located.
Yeah, you’re right that all recent gen consoles have wireless options. The scenario I was speaking to was more for older consoles I occasionally pull out: SNES, Genesis, etc.
A quick search on google and I was able to find a few extension cables for those two systems. Might be able to tuck them away somewhere nicely (under a carpet/baseboard etc). I personally own a Hyperkin Admiral controller for my N64 which comes with a module that plugs into the console and allows me to play wirelessly, which is nice.Yeah, you’re right that all recent gen consoles have wireless options. The scenario I was speaking to was more for older consoles I occasionally pull out: SNES, Genesis, etc.
Reviving this thread for a follow-up question. I originally recalculated my row 1 viewing distance based on a 45 degree wide field of vision. However, using the CEDIA tool it recommends 39 degrees. Is there any reason to choose one recommendation over another besides personal preference?
Requesting some more feedback. Attached is my speaker layout. Does anyone notice any glaring mistakes? I'm particularly interested what peoples opinions are on the chosen speaker heights. I think right now, they're optimized as a compromise for both the first and second row. If the second row is intended to be more used as "overflow", would it make sense to alter these heights?
![3172241]()
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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