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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been looking at how most guys who have the space are building false walls and covering with GOM. How are you doing this with these huge subs on the market today. The more popular subs like Epik, ED, SVS, HSU etc... are all like 30' deep. You still need to have room around the sub. Are you pulling your false/screen walls out 3'? Even in a large room, 3' is significant.
 

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You can put them parallel to the screen wall instead of perpendicular (they're only 20" or so wide).
 

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Exactly. My HSU sub is 15 wide x 23 deep. I turned it so the 23 is parallel to the screen wall. My false wall is only 22 inches away from the backwall and sub fits perfectly.
 

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Depending on the width of the room and the screen, you may be able to flair the sides out giving the screen a box like construction and providing more room for sub(s) in the corner(s).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the input guys. I thought that I had read that for front firing subs you needed to have the sub firing towards to the seating position. If I can turn this sideways then that is probably what I will do.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sotwell /forum/post/14180133


I have been looking at how most guys who have the space are building false walls and covering with GOM. How are you doing this with these huge subs on the market today. The more popular subs like Epik, ED, SVS, HSU etc... are all like 30' deep. You still need to have room around the sub. Are you pulling your false/screen walls out 3'? Even in a large room, 3' is significant.

My subs are 48" tall x 48" wide by 16" deep. I have two stacked on top of one another for 8 feet tall by 4 feet wide subs behind my screen wall. I wish I had left 24 - 30 inches between my screen wall and the actual front wall so I had more clearance but I only had 18 inches.


I built my subs myself and the outperform anything commercially available.
 

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When I commissioned JTR to build the beastly Captivator sub, I had it designed specifically for screen wall use. I had them build it at 24" deep...a pretty common and easily achievable depth for screen walls. 31.5" x 40" are the other two dimensions, making it easy to stack them off to one side and still have room for other gear behind the screen.
 

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I'm making this decision right now as well. I can make 24" work, but would have preferred to get away with 18". I'm going for three rows in 30' of depth, and a 144" wide screen. This means that my front row is right around 1x's screen width. At that, 24" matters! But I'm afraid I have no choice. Furtunately, projector technology is only improving this matter, and quickly!


The sub is not your only consideration. Many main speakers are of significant depth now too. For instance, the Klipsch RF83 mains are 20.5" deep, and are rear ported.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 /forum/post/14188929


The sub is not your only consideration. Many main speakers are of significant depth now too. For instance, the Klipsch RF83 mains are 20.5" deep, and are rear ported.

That's a good point if you're putting your speakers behind your screen. That's why I had to look for a front (or no) ported design for the mains. I eventually scooped up a set of 3 Klipsch Ultra2 speakers. Boy, are they awesome sounding!


Andy
 

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One other problem to watch out for: I have 3' behind my screen, so plenty of room for the sub. However, when I put together my trampoline screen frame, it turns out there is only ~14" of space to the right of the screen (less to the left).



(no, that isn't my real screen material, it's a tarp.)


If I ever want to get my sub out, I'll need to move or disassemble my screen, or make a special door back there into the attic. Not a problem, but I feel stupid because I didn't think of it before testing out my screen frame.
 
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