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It's very simple as long as you have good access to the dish. The only tricky part is threading the coax through the feed tube. I had to temporarily remove the LNB adapter support in front of the dish to make enough room, but that was the only glitch. It took about 15 minutes.
 

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On a scale of 1-10, it's a 2.
 

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It almost took longer to find the philips screwdriver and 7/16 wrench required than to actually install the lnb. No dish adjustment required.
 

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Since I'm dumb as a sack of hammers, I had my 8 year old daughter do it. ;)
 

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i had to hire 3 people to help me... 1 to read the instructions, 1 to build it, 1 to tell me how good of a job i was doing.
 

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Did you guys leave your signal combiner exposed to the elements or were you able to put it inside the arm or something? I was balancing precariously on the ladder about two and a half stories up so I just attached it to the tail coming from the 3rd LNB and cable tied it so it's not flapping around in the wind. I did provide my own RG6 cable with some dielectric water proofing filler however. But I live in Chicago so I worry about the elements. My multiswitch is indoors but I didn't want to hassle with running another cable from the roof, at least not right away as I was anxious to get it installed.


Is installing it outside like I did okay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I went to the DirectTV site and they do not indicate on there that you can get it for just shipping. They tell you to contact a local DirectTV dealer to buy one. So, will they give it to you, or must I call DirectTV and see if they will send one for the shipping cost?
 

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I had some problems with the Terk installation. I had to buy a longer screw to hold the Sat C LNB in place on my RCA dish (I used a #10-24 x 2" a little long and I had to put a washer on it to spread the load on the LNB since the head was smaller than the one Terk provided.) Also, the space to pull the additional coax through the arm was very tight and I had to yank hard to get the cable through (I used an unbent wire hanger to grab the end of the cable.)


Some people have noted that some Terk cables have the ground wire contacting the inner lead, shorting it out. In my case, I had a center wire severely bent and had to straighten it out with needle-nose pliers.


If you check for grounding shorts and that the center wire is straight and centered, you shouldn't have any problems.


Rick
 

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I'll probably just get a longer screw as well.

I couldn't get the cable through at first, either, even with a pull wire, because there wasn't room.

But after loosening the Sat-B lnb and moving it over a bit, I was able to get the new cable through, and then I just tightened it back down.
 

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I have a couple of dumb questions. How come you can't use the LNB that comes with a round or elliptical dish for Sat C? As far as I know, the two LNB's on an elliptical dish are interchangeable. Is there something different about the Sat C LNB?
 

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bzc10,


It has been reported that the LNB from the sat-c kit is not the same as the other LNB from a round or oval kit. Different freq response. The switch that comes with the kit is the key to making this work. You would have to find a place to get it. And I'm sure you ani't going to find it for less that $8 plus shipping :)
 

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Thanks to this forum I went out and bought a #10-24 longer screw for my Terk brand Sat C kit. Once I came home it took me about 20 minutes to install the whole thing. I even made my own RG-6 cables as I didn't want to use those crappy RG-59 cables. I also have an indoor multi-switch, but I went ahead and mounted the Sat B/C combiner outside since it seems designed for it.


Came inside, plugged my DTC-100 back and turned it on a tada their was Showtime HD. Piece of cake and no loss in signal strength on 119 or 101 after adding 110.
 

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I called directv last night and got them to send me the Sat C kit for $8.71 (shipping and handling). I was pleasantly surprised when the CSR told me I didn't have to sign up for anything (not even Showtime). Does this kit include a combiner? If not, can I use any standard combiner or does it have to be one for satellite?
 
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