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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, how many single coil 4ohm, 1,000 watt drivers, can you wire up for the FP10000Q (with DSP) to power? Looking to power 6 of them. Anyone have a guide on how to do this? I want to sell my 3 inukes to get the FP10000Q, but I'd like to know how I can achieve wiring this.

Thanks for any help. :)
 

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Is that 1000W peak or RMS? You would probably need to model it up (including whatever box design) to be sure.

SVCs are a little more challenging to wire in groups. With 6 drivers, you probably want to use 3 channels with 2 drivers wired in series each, to give an 8 ohm load to the amp. That amp looks like 1350 W per channel at that load, but I’m assuming that’s peak. So you will be under powering the subs a bit. But depending on your box configuration, this may not matter.

You could potentially wire them to 2 channels with a 12 ohm load on each, or 1 channel in series-parallel wiring, but I think you would get less power to each sub.
 

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Looks like that 1350W at 4x8 ohms is actually RMS, so that may work if your 1000W is peak on your subs (2 drivers in series x 3 channels).

I also didn’t realize you can bridge the amp. If 1000W is RMS, it may work to wire 3 drivers in series to 2 bridged channels at 12 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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The best thing would be two FP20k's and a big miniDSP, or two FP10kDSP's if that is too expensive.
That way each cone has it's own channel.

If that is still too expensive, you could buy another 2 cones and run a single amp at quad 2-ohm, it's "not optimum" and the amp might be stressed out more, but it "probably" won't completely explode if you don't push it into clipping.

I wouldn't recommend series for more than 2 drivers together, and even then they'd have to be identical drivers & boxes.

You'd probably want the 20k because the 10k will be closer to a side-grade than a real upgrade, 3 3k's output a decent amount of power vs a single amp.

In any case, just about every brand of clone has better build-quality than an inuke, if you can get a working one.

If it lives past the first pounding or the first month, then it will probably last a decade or more, if not mistreated (i.e. not clipped or overheated etc.)
 

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The best thing would be two FP20k's and a big miniDSP, or two FP10kDSP's if that is too expensive.
That way each cone has it's own channel.

If that is still too expensive, you could buy another 2 cones and run a single amp at quad 2-ohm, it's "not optimum" and the amp might be stressed out more, but it "probably" won't completely explode if you don't push it into clipping.

I wouldn't recommend series for more than 2 drivers together, and even then they'd have to be identical drivers & boxes.

You'd probably want the 20k because the 10k will be closer to a side-grade than a real upgrade, 3 3k's output a decent amount of power vs a single amp.

In any case, just about every brand of clone has better build-quality than an inuke, if you can get a working one.

If it lives past the first pounding or the first month, then it will probably last a decade or more, if not mistreated (i.e. not clipped or overheated etc.)
I just lost a 10 year old FP10k because of a puppy lol. He chewed the speaker cables and seems like only shorted something to do with the fans. It doesn’t go into high fan mode upon start up like it’s supposed to except randomly now.

I figure 10 years was well worth the money. And it went into protection mode when the wires were shorted by the dog so neither my $5000 dog (money not being the objective concern the compassionate friend being the concern) nor my drivers were injured so I was thankful that I didn’t have anything other than ventilation issues afterwards.

I may buy a few of the FP20Ks or pony up real money for a few XTA amps so that I can get more power per rack unit of space.

Rack units and physical power amperage from my 400 amp service are now my limiting factors with my ever growing system.


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Rack units and physical power amperage from my 400 amp service are now my limiting factors with my ever growing system.
Did you get a PowerSure yet?

The FP20k has slightly more than double the performance of the 10k, more or less.
 

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Did you get a PowerSure yet?

The FP20k has slightly more than double the performance of the 10k, more or less.
Not yet. That will be one of the last upgrades. I’m torn between which model to even potentially go with as of right now too. So many tiny details between all the different vendors on these type of devices. My Quested Rep who gets multi million dollar commissions on some of the very best rooms in the world suggests one model then three other people suggests three other models.... I’m ignorant to electronics when it comes to engineering so eventually have to take people at their word so that really complicated things even further.

If I had to guess right now on a timeline for such an upgrade to my power supply I would put it at 5-10years so could be upgrading to a Tesla-similar type of tech by then so keeping an open mind. I know battery tech would provide the ultimate signal in terms of pure clean power so not against this at all. It would also be best for the rest of our home’s electric needs as well. One of my closest friends that I grew up with back home lives here in the same city and owns a solar company. He’s going to install a system for us at some point but that’s a whole other issue in itself as well.

I’m definitely replacing the FP10KQS with the FP20K at minimum but may skip the Clones all together for something from XTA since their true power ratings are off the charts down into the sub 5Hz range.

I’m unaware of anyone else sticking to purely sealed ULF systems like me and you but I could never go without the infrasonics in a Home Theater. That has been the plan from day one and will never change.

I’m gaining on you fast Bass

ULF Drivers
8 FTW 21s
2 Mal 21s
6 SI 24s

Mid to Lower Bass Drivers
6 AE Custom TD18H+
Then either 24 more of the AE custom drivers or

16 Bartle plus 8 AE

It’s more complicated than just the numbers of drivers as they each correspond to a specific channel whether it be ss1, SS2, ss1 height, SS2 height, etc....

Bests



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