How much sound reduction can I expect?

365 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Mntneer, Mar 2, 2005

Mntneer

Discussion Starter · Mar 2, 2005

Currently I've got an open basement layout, where one portion of the basement acts as my "theater." We've decided though to add a bedroom to the basement for a live-in babysitter, and I'm worried about sound coming from the "theater" being a big issue.

I'm doing 2x6 staggered framing with 2 layers of the Corning QuietZone Acoustic Batts, then a layer of sound board, maybe some green glue and then a layer of drywall. Should this help dramatically reduce sound transference between my "theater" and this new bedroom? What thickness of gypsum is recommended?

Here's a layout of what I'm doing.
http://www.daileycreative.com/Various/drawing2.gif

Any ideas would be appriciated. I know I can't kill all the low frequency noise probably, but I want to elminate as much as possible.

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Brian Ravnaas

· #2 · Mar 2, 2005

if you opt for the green glue, scrap the soundboard and use 2 layers of drywall.

heck, if you skip the green glue, scrap the soundboard and use 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. the advantages that soundboard can offer shouldn't be considered applicable to decoupled walls.

as to how much performance to expect, that's a tough question. flanking noise (through the floor, ceiling, outlets, ductwork) and doors are big variables

looks like you don't have a direct door, but perhaps a round-about path through doors, or around a corner and then through a door?

a GG stagg stud wall is a bloody good wall, though.

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Mntneer

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 2, 2005

Quote:

Originally posted by Brian Ravnaas
if you opt for the green glue, scrap the soundboard and use 2 layers of drywall.

heck, if you skip the green glue, scrap the soundboard and use 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. the advantages that soundboard can offer shouldn't be considered applicable to decoupled walls.

as to how much performance to expect, that's a tough question. flanking noise (through the floor, ceiling, outlets, ductwork) and doors are big variables

looks like you don't have a direct door, but perhaps a round-about path through doors, or around a corner and then through a door?

a GG stagg stud wall is a bloody good wall, though.

Thanks for the tips. There won't be a direct door. It sits around the corner from the "theater" room. There is no ductwork in the theater room, but the basement does use a drop ceiling.

I take it the acoustic insulation will help some?

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bpape

· #4 · Mar 2, 2005

Uh-oh. Drop ceiling = SERIOUS flanking. The drop ceiling and insulation up there will do next to nothing to stop bass from moving into the bedroom space.

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Mntneer

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 2, 2005

Quote:

Originally posted by bpape
Uh-oh. Drop ceiling = SERIOUS flanking. The drop ceiling and insulation up there will do next to nothing to stop bass from moving into the bedroom space.

Even if the 2x6 framing goes from concrete slab to joist, and the wall runs parallel with the joists?

I thought about adding more insulaiton above the drop ceiling as well.

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bpape

· #6 · Mar 2, 2005

If the wall goes up and seals off to the joist, that will help for sure. I'd caulk that joint on both sides and potentially even run the drywall on the theater side up over the joint. Also make sure to seal it up where the joist meets the flooring above.

Definitely think about putting some insulation in the joist cavity on both sides of where the wall ties in at a minimum.

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Mntneer

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 2, 2005

Quote:

Originally posted by bpape
If the wall goes up and seals off to the joist, that will help for sure. I'd caulk that joint on both sides and potentially even run the drywall on the theater side up over the joint. Also make sure to seal it up where the joist meets the flooring above.

Definitely think about putting some insulation in the joist cavity on both sides of where the wall ties in at a minimum.

Thanks.

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