[Zee]

hi everyone


just got the panasonic ae3000 and i have a 120" wide 2.35 screen .. now the modes on the ae3000 to change ratios are 16:9 and s16:9 .. and when i use s16:9 it shows the movie in 2.35 ratio .. is this correct .. can anyone who has a ae3000 let me know there settings for 2.35 setup .. i have zoomed as much as possibe to fill the screen in 2.35 but still see bars on all four sides ..


thanks


Zee

 

[leeson]

How far back from the screen is your pj mounted (throw distance)?

 

[jayrader]

You don't use the ratio settings for CIH setup. Basically the lens memory features are used for that. What you do is use zoom, focus, and your horizontal and verical shift (digital, not the manual lens one) to get your 2:35 material the way you want it. Then you go into lens memory and save it, and then toggle back and forth.


The 16:9s setting is nice for when you are in 2:35 mode, and you turn that on so you can work the DVD menus and what not. Then when your feature starts, you just hit the zoom mode again and youre in 16:9 native with your zoomed 2:35 setup.

 

[dyslexic]

my questions exactly...just reading the manual.....what does the S16:9 stand for anyhow.....

 

[firebrick]

does the panny just stretch the image or is it the same as using an anamorphic lens on another projector? does it make a diffence in pic quality?

 

[Zee]

ok im still a little confused .. so here's my setup ..


screen is 2.35 about 120" .. distance from projector is about 18' ..


now lets say watching a 2.35 movie like king kong.. will i set the projector at 16:9 or s16:9 .. because i dont see a setting for 2.35 ..


also if im watching a 16:9 movie on my 2.35 screen how do i make it fit or crop the top and bottom .. my understanding was since this projector is 2.35 capable .. it would somehow allow me to do that ..


any help is appreciated..


also anyone want to share their color settings for the ae3000..


thanks

 

[Kelvin1965S]

I don't know if you've got an answer yet, but incase you haven't (or another AE3000 owner searches and finds this

):


For 2.35:1 viewing I use the 16:9 aspect setting, then zoom the projector so that the black bars go off the top and bottom of my 2.35:1 screen. I set the focus (after the PJ has been on at least 30 minutes) and adjust the vertical control in the lens memory menu to align the image with my screen, then I saved this setting and I named it "2.35:1". I also set a 1.85:1 setting by adjusting the zoom so the 'taller' image would fit on my 2.35:1 screen (leaving black side bars) and set the focus, etc and saved it as "1.85:1". Finally I zoomed further back for 16:9 programmes, set the focus, etc and saved it as "1.78:1". I also assigned the lens memory to the assignable button on the remote (the last from bottom option in the main menu IIRC), so I can press one button and go straight to the 3 options and set according to the AR of the film. You may have to adjust the manual lens shift(s) to set the 16:9 image first and work from there if you run out of adjustment in the lens memory menu settings. Note also that some users have reported that this doesn't work too well if your PJ is much above the top of the screen due to the image moving up or down when zooming.


What this mode does not do when in 2.35:1 zoom:

1. No stretching, squeezing or scaling of the image.
2. Does not remove the black bars, these are just zoomed and projected off the top and bottom of the 2.35:1 screen.
3. Use all of the 1080 lines.

What this mode does not do when in 16:9 or 4:3 mode:

1. No stretching or cropping of the image to 'fit' it onto a 2.35:1 screen, it only zooms back so that the full 16:9 or 4:3 picture fits onto the screen heightwise, leaving black side bars.
2. Does not stretch a 2.35:1 image to fill the whole 16:9 LCD panel (there is a separate 'aspect' button setting 'V-Stretch' that will do this only for use with a separate Anamorphic lens).

This feature is simply a very convienient (and consistant if the settings are stored when the PJ has warmed up properly) way of using the 'zoom method' for CIH.


I added a small picture of my new 2.35:1 tab tensioned screen too.

Hope that helps.

 

[Zee]

thanks kelvin


i finally figured it out .. i was under the impression that there was a way to watch 1.85 image on 2.35 screen by cropping the 1.85 top and bottom and watching it on full 2.35 screen .. i guess not ... since using ps3 i guess not possible .. but if using pc then i can use program like yxy to crop image and fit it on full 2.35 .. make sense

 

[CAVX]

Or if you used a lens, you wouldn't have any light spill top and bottom when you did this...


Mark

 

[Mike Davison]

Kelvin1965S

Quote:
The black bars are still present when in 2.35:1 zoomed setting, they are just projected off the top and bottom of the screen.
Use all of the 1080 lines.

Kelvin, you lost me.

If the Pj is a native 16:9 then all of the 1080 lines are projected when you are projecting a 16:1 picture.(With no black bars)

The black bars that are zoomed off the screen when you zoom into the 2.35:1 screen, are part of the 1080 lines, so the picture you see is made up from much less than 1080 lines, so the picture quality, brightness etc., must suffer IMHO the only way to get all the 1080 lines on a 2.35:1 screen is to use a vertical scaler, then a horizontal stretch from a panamorph lens.

Mike

 

[ruttenjump]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Davison /forum/post/15760958


Kelvin1965S


Kelvin, you lost me.

If the Pj is a native 16:9 then all of the 1080 lines are projected when you are projecting a 16:1 picture.(With no black bars)

The black bars that are zoomed off the screen when you zoom into the 2.35:1 screen, are part of the 1080 lines, so the picture you see is made up from much less than 1080 lines, so the picture quality, brightness etc., must suffer IMHO the only way to get all the 1080 lines on a 2.35:1 screen is to use a vertical scaler, then a horizontal stretch from a panamorph lens.

Mike

You are correct, and that's actually what he meant. That point was part of a list under the heading "What this mode does not do when in 2.35:1 zoom:". Since he didn't use bullets/numbering, and worded the first few points differently, I can see the confusion, but I'm certain he meant to say the projector doesn't use all 1080 lines while in the zoomed 2.35:1 mode.

 

[Mike Davison]

Thanks, ruttenjump.

I understand, so in other words I am losing about 25% of my 1080p picture, or I can see only 813 lines out of 1080p.

If this is true, and I am not going to fork out $6000 for an anamorphic kit, it would be better to stay with 1080p at 16:9 and see all my 1080 lines from the PJ and the Blu Ray Player. So why do I need a PJ with a (troublesome) motorized zoom? What I need is a native 16:9 - 1080p - 120 hz - HDMI 1.3 projector, with a long lamp life. Any suggestions??

Mike

 

[ilsiu]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Davison /forum/post/15775093


So why do I need a PJ with a (troublesome) motorized zoom?

Are you referring to the Panny? What do you mean by troublesome zoom?


As for you question about long lamp life, most projectors use the same kind of bulbs, so no one really has a clear advantage. Mitsubishi claims 4000 hr life for some models, but I'm not sure if that's been confirmed.

 

[Mike Davison]

ilsiu,

This thread mentions that the PJ should be on for at least 30 mins. before touching the zoom, Derek Jensen says http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-PT-A...4188540&sr=8-1 that the zoom is difficult to adjust precisely. If you search this forum there are several people not happy with the Panny Zoom, so I come back to my point, If I don´t need a 2.35:1 image (for the reasons mentioned) why do I need a (troublesome) motorized zoom?

Epson claim 4000 hour with their new range of lamps, on their 6100 and 6500 pj´s.

Mike

 

[ilsiu]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Davison /forum/post/15775267


ilsiu,

This thread mentions that the PJ should be on for at least 30 mins. before touching the zoom, Derek Jensen says http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-PT-A...4188540&sr=8-1 that the zoom is difficult to adjust precisely. If you search this forum there are several people not happy with the Panny Zoom, so I come back to my point, If I don´t need a 2.35:1 image (for the reasons mentioned) why do I need a (troublesome) motorized zoom?

Epson claim 4000 hour with their new range of lamps, on their 6100 and 6500 pj´s.

Mike

As a potential Panny owner, I'm very interested in potential issues.


I believe the post in this thread referred to warming up 30 min before setting the focus to eliminate thermal drift (applies to every projector to some extent). I also believe that once this is done and saved into the lens memory, focus doesn't need to be readjusted when switching lens memory positions. Kelvin1965S - can you comment on this?


As for people unhappy with the Panny zoom, I'll have to reread the Panny thread here on AVS and the Amazon reviews (although I put less weight on Amazon reviews, as I feel that AVS forum users are more technically savvy and have better understanding of the true root causes of projector problems). Again, I certainly want to know about any problems anyone is having with this projector before I commit to a purchase.


Finally, if you already decided you don't want a CIH system, then you don't have to worry about motorized zoom, lens shift, vertical stretch. Just buy the projector with the longest bulb life, a 16x9 screen and you're done. But I'm not sure why you're posting here? People here are just going to tell you how great CIH is (and I agree with them

).


PS - thanks for the correction re: Epson.

 

[Mike Davison]

ilsiu,

Just to say that I am in this thread because of my response, above, to Kelvin1965S.

I have a 16:9 screen and a Panny AE 500. I want to go HD using Blu Ray, my AE500 can only manage 720p, and if I use the Panny 3000U on a 2.35:1 screen, this would offer me not much more than this. If I could afford a panamorph system, I would go down this road, but I think the Panny 3000 is a poor alternative to the panamorph system.

Mike

 

[ilsiu]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Davison /forum/post/15775748


ilsiu,

Just to say that I am in this thread because of my response, above, to Kelvin1965S.

I have a 16:9 screen and a Panny AE 500. I want to go HD using Blu Ray, my AE500 can only manage 720p, and if I use the Panny 3000U on a 2.35:1 screen, this would offer me not much more than this. If I could afford a panamorph system, I would go down this road, but I think the Panny 3000 is a poor alternative to the panamorph system.

Mike

ok, I see where you're coming from.


Some comments:


- When you watch a 2.35 movie on your AE500 (without an a-lens), you're looking at 1280x545 (~700k pixels).

- When you watch a 2.35 movie on the AE3000 (without an a-lens), you're looking at 1920x817 (~1.57M pixels).


That seems like a significant improvement to me in theory.


As for zooming with the AE3000 vs Panamorph+AE3000, cine4home.de did a comparison of the AE3000 zoom vs Schneider a-lens (which I would argue is at least as good, if not better, than any Panamorph). Their conclusion was that the a-lens made no appreciable improvement. So it seems the AE3000 alone is a very good alternative to AE3000+Panamorph system.


Now if you're not locked into the AE3000, perhaps a different projector/lens combo may be even better. Perhaps Benq W5000+Panamorph combo? Of course, it'll be alot more expensive as well.

 

[Mike Davison]

My headache just got worse, three weeks of research down the drain, thanks for the information.

Mike

 

[ilsiu]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Davison /forum/post/15777752


My headache just got worse, three weeks of research down the drain, thanks for the information.

Mike

I aim to confuse

Seriously, there are a lot of CIH options out there that fit different budgets.

 

[gtcmap1]

I have question on this:


If you are using BluRay and a 2.35 screen and the panny projector (no panamorph lense, no zoom), you will have black bands at the top and bottom of the screen.


Correct me if I'm wront here?


You have already lost vertical resolution due to the bands at the top and bottom.


Do you lose more by zooming this image to fill the screen?


Wouldn't the lost vertical lines be the same on a 16:9 screen?


Just curiouse as I am thinking of going this same route.

I am having trouble deciding on screen size. I was set for a 106" diaganol 16:9 screen.


I watch both sports and movies a lot. So I want that size to be the 16:9. If I calculate out, that gives me a 122" wide 2.35 screen using the constant height of 52". My seating is at 11-12' for first row. Can I get away with that wide of a 2.35 screen at that distance? I had read that you can be a little closer to a 2.35 screen than 16:9.