AVS Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello there. I'm a regular on the ReplayTV forum but this is my first time here...


I have a 3M MP7630RAV projector and a Da-Lite 80"x60" electric screen. The screen takes 110VAC common, and one hot lead for motor up and another hot lead for motor down.


I'd like to have the screen come down automatically when the projector is on. I'm familiar with how to set up a relay (SPDT, default for common-to-motor-up and powered for common-to-motor-down).


What I have absolutely no idea about and what I'd like the advice of someone who's done it before is.. how do I power the relay? What on my projector do I use to generate some useful signal?


If there was a "screen control" jack that would be easy, of course, but there isn't. Is there any way I can get 5vdc or 12vdc or any vdc from any of the existing ports? Or is there some other way -- light activated...


Any ideas appreciated.


M
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,119 Posts
Mman, I obviously don't have one of those projectors but what you might look into is one of the triggered power strips which would switch an outlet when the projector is turned on. It detects the difference in current draw and has a sensitivity setting.


If that works, then just get a 110VAC relay where on=down?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,119 Posts
I guess one thing to consider if going the "auto power controller" route, is to make sure the unit is rated for the wattage of the projector. There should be some designed for computers big enough?


Of course light activated switching could be interesting... like the screen goes up on a fade to black? : )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1 X-10 wall outlet module

2 NEBS 110VAC power cords

1 Radio Shack 120VAC relay (120VAC coil)

1 Radio Shack relay socket

14 awg wire

solder


------------------------------------------

Replace your normal outlet with an X-10 wall outlet module.

This unit has one outlet that's always on, and one that is

addressably switched on or off.


Take the power cords, cut to length and trim insulation.

Wire one power cord to the coil pins on the relay socket

(7&8). This power cord should be attached to the SWITCHED

outlet.


Take the second power cord, and connect its hot lead

(black) to pin 5. Then connect a piece of black 14awg

cable to pin 3, and a red piece to pin 1.


You now have an ugly mess with three wires sticking out

of it -- the white wire from power cord #2 *COMMON*,

the black wire from relay socket pin 3 *DOWN*, and

the red wire from relay socket pin 1 *UP*.


Connect the white, red, and black wires to the equivalent

on your da-lite electrol system. I'm assuming it uses the

same colors as the functions I just mentioned.


Plug the second power cord into the always-on outlet.

NOTHING should happen.


Go to your X-10 control module and command the outlet

to turn on. The screen will go down and stay down.


Go to your X-10 control module and command the outlet

to turn off. The screen will go up and stay up.



-------------alternate method---------------------------

If you feel inclined NOT to use the X-10 switched outlet,

you can substitute an appliance module, in which case you

only need one power cord. Here's what you need.


1 X-10 Appliance module

1 NEBS power cord

1 110VAC socket (outlet)

1 110VAC plug


Take the white (common) wire from the power cord, and

connect it to the following

1. White (common) wire on the electric screen

2. Common side of the 110VAC Socket


Take the black (hot) wire from the power cord and

connect it to the following

1. Hot side of the 110VAC Socket


Wire the 110VAC plug to the coil pins (7&8) on the socket

relay.


Wire the hot lead from whichever is 7&8 to pin 5.

Wire a black wire to pin 3.

Wire a red wire to pin 1.


Connect the black and red wires to the electric screen

down and up respectively (or as per your color code).


Plug the appliance module into the socket.


Enjoy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,119 Posts
That sounds clean and reliable.


I have so much X-10 it's not even funny. I even built custom relay banks to give the accent lighting X-10 level control yet still one touch on-off in various combinations.


And yep, "putting the screen down and leaving it down for the duration of your session" may be old fashioned... but hey it sure works! : )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had everything laying around, which is why I used those parts. I ended up picking up a white plastic "outlet box"

at home despot, and that and a white cover plate allowed me to attach it to the back of the screen so that it looks

professional.


I still have no clue how to get usable on-indicating voltage out of the projector without opening it up.


Mman

;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Ah, now instead of the X.10 you could use a Sears current sensor (typically used in this forum to trigger hush box fans) to cause the screen to lower whenever the projector was drawing current. (ie turned on). Only $20 at Sears. (Heck, I may even do this)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice idea, and works with X.10. Enter the CS-1 AC Current Sensor and the PF284 Powerflash Interface.


Take a standard NEBS 110V cord and cut six inches from end. Trim the male end at 6 inches and strip all three wires. Remove the outer sheath of the female end and trim 20" of the outer sheath.


Trim the green and white wires to 6".


Take the 20" black wire and loop it three times through the A/C current sensor. Then connect all three wires to their respectively colored mates on the male side.


Connect the two wires from the A/C current sensor to the low-voltage inputs on the PowerFlash module.


Set the PowerFlash module to "INPUTS A" (voltage, not open/close), "MODE 3" (send a unique X-10 command, not flash all lights or turn on all lights), and set the house code and unit number of the target Screen X-10 receiver.


Plug in.


It now magically lowers the screen when the projector comes on, and raises it when the projector is off. By changing the number of windings to suit, I have it so that the screen goes up when the fan is on. Others may wish to leave it down, which means add more windings.


Mman
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top