Call an electrican. Sorry but I can see from your questioning you don't have enough background to do it safely yourself.
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How to change 2 prong outlet into 3 prong?
I don't think my outlet is grounded even though I checked and there's a copper wire. Whenever I plug in my 3 prong adapter and the top is not screwed in, my surge protector says wiring fault.
IIRC there were 2 black wires and 2 white wires. I think only 1 of each was hooked to the screws. The copper wire is screwed to the side I think. They lead to a metal hole at the top with some paper wrapped around them. The box is plastic.
What's a good and easy way to get a grounded 3 prong outlet? This will only be used for a computer and I read that GFI is not good with it. Also 15 or 20 amp receptacle? Thanks in advance.
IIRC there were 2 black wires and 2 white wires. I think only 1 of each was hooked to the screws. The copper wire is screwed to the side I think. They lead to a metal hole at the top with some paper wrapped around them. The box is plastic.
What's a good and easy way to get a grounded 3 prong outlet? This will only be used for a computer and I read that GFI is not good with it. Also 15 or 20 amp receptacle? Thanks in advance.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Yes get an election, I have a steel box for my outlet and all I did was ran a copper wire from my 3prong outlet to the side of the steel box. Its called a false ground cause it will read as grounded due to the fact that my box is attached to a wood stud. But then again I'm guessing your in the US and alot of things I have been reading from these forums about reno/reworking for movie rooms tells me we have different building practices.
IE. we have no Plastic electriacl boxes... at all. We have drywall here called QuietRock, its $120/sheet but it is has the sound damping equivelant to 7 layers of 1/2 drywall.
IE. we have no Plastic electriacl boxes... at all. We have drywall here called QuietRock, its $120/sheet but it is has the sound damping equivelant to 7 layers of 1/2 drywall.
Please get a qualified electrician before you hurt yourself or burn your house down.
You don't need a GFI for a computer unless it is close to a water source or in your garage. A 15A receptacle should handle it safely.
Don't undertake this yourself, you will only cause problems or get hurt. It is cheaper and safer to hire someone or find a friend with the knowledge. If you are determined to go it alone, go to the library and get a book on the subject.
You don't need a GFI for a computer unless it is close to a water source or in your garage. A 15A receptacle should handle it safely.
Don't undertake this yourself, you will only cause problems or get hurt. It is cheaper and safer to hire someone or find a friend with the knowledge. If you are determined to go it alone, go to the library and get a book on the subject.
A GFIC outlet can convert a 2 conductor outlet to a 3 wire outlet.
BUT this conversion is only for human safety! (If something goes wrong it turns the outlet off)
It doesn't work for power conditioning or surge protection.
BUT this conversion is only for human safety! (If something goes wrong it turns the outlet off)
It doesn't work for power conditioning or surge protection.
A GFIC outlet can convert a 2 conductor outlet to a 3 wire outlet.
The same can be accomplished with a new three prong outlet. A good idea is provided above.....get an electrician to remove the old outlet and install a new outlet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Graf /forum/post/12821700
A GFIC outlet can convert a 2 conductor outlet to a 3 wire outlet.
The same can be accomplished with a new three prong outlet. A good idea is provided above.....get an electrician to remove the old outlet and install a new outlet.
Thats a much better plan, the GFIC doesn't get us much for home theater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Graf /forum/post/12821700
A GFIC outlet can convert a 2 conductor outlet to a 3 wire outlet.
The same can be accomplished with a new three prong outlet. A good idea is provided above.....get an electrician to remove the old outlet and install a new outlet.
There's a big difference though....
Neither provide the safety ground to the third prong, but the GFI does provide a measure of additional safety in case of leakage out of the circuit.
I haven't kept up on the NEC, but it may be against code/illegal to replace a 2-prong outlet with a 3-prong outlet unless said 3-prong is a GFI - or, unless a standard 3-prong can be properly connected to the safety grounding wire.
In the case of GFI NOT connected to the safety grounding wire, it's required to label the outlet as non-grounding. Each GFI comes with some decals just for that purpose.
i can hurt myself or burn down my house even if i turn off the breaker?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtuck2 /forum/post/12819094
Please get a qualified electrician before you hurt yourself or burn your house down.
i can hurt myself or burn down my house even if i turn off the breaker?
i bought 2 testers
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and
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when i plug the red and black one into both outlets the light goes on. i never tried to plug it into the outlet with the 3 prong adapter plugged in.
when i plugged the 3 prong tester into the adapter (3rd hole at top, metal tab at the top screwed in, short slit on left), the tester is backwards i assume (sticker with descriptions is not visible) the first 2 lights are on. which either means hot/neutral reverse if it's backwards or grounded if not backwards.
when the adapter was plugged in with 3rd hole at bottom, metal tab at top screwed in, large slit on left, the stickers with descriptions is visible and showed hot/neutral reverse.
whenever the adapter wasn't screwed in either way i plugged it, it said open ground.
i also looked at the wiring/receptacle again. there are 4 screws (2 on left, 2 on right) and 4 wires (2 black hooked to screws on left, 2 white hooked to screws on the right). i hope that helps with solving this. any other details needed, just ask.
when i plug the red and black one into both outlets the light goes on. i never tried to plug it into the outlet with the 3 prong adapter plugged in.
when i plugged the 3 prong tester into the adapter (3rd hole at top, metal tab at the top screwed in, short slit on left), the tester is backwards i assume (sticker with descriptions is not visible) the first 2 lights are on. which either means hot/neutral reverse if it's backwards or grounded if not backwards.
when the adapter was plugged in with 3rd hole at bottom, metal tab at top screwed in, large slit on left, the stickers with descriptions is visible and showed hot/neutral reverse.
whenever the adapter wasn't screwed in either way i plugged it, it said open ground.
i also looked at the wiring/receptacle again. there are 4 screws (2 on left, 2 on right) and 4 wires (2 black hooked to screws on left, 2 white hooked to screws on the right). i hope that helps with solving this. any other details needed, just ask.
2
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ONly if you have a solid ground back to the panel. The ground fault will not work without a ground wire.
In most cases, even the two prong outlets had a ground lead attached to the metal box, which would become the ground used on the new three prong plug. In some instances, armored cable (greenfield) would have been used and the metallic sheath would then be used as the ground conductor.
Quote:
quote=whoaru99;12829270]
Neither provide the safety ground to the third prong, but the GFI does provide a measure of additional safety in case of leakage out of the circuit.
ONly if you have a solid ground back to the panel. The ground fault will not work without a ground wire.
Quote:
I haven't kept up on the NEC, but it may be against code/illegal to replace a 2-prong outlet with a 3-prong outlet unless said 3-prong is a GFI - or, unless a standard 3-prong can be properly connected to the safety grounding wire.
In most cases, even the two prong outlets had a ground lead attached to the metal box, which would become the ground used on the new three prong plug. In some instances, armored cable (greenfield) would have been used and the metallic sheath would then be used as the ground conductor.
The indication given by the lights on the 3-prong tester matches the tester's decal regardless of which way the receptacle is mounted.
The black wires should go to the side of the receptacle with the narrow slots (and or brass-colored terminal screws) and the white wires to the side of the receptacle with the wide slots (and or silver-colored terminal screws).
The adapter should fit correctly only one way unless it's been modified, afaik. The wide slot on the adapter should line up with the wide slot on the receptacle. Or, put another way, the metal tab on the adapter should always be lined up to connect to the screw in the center of the receptacle cover.
Make sure it's all this way and retest it.
The black wires should go to the side of the receptacle with the narrow slots (and or brass-colored terminal screws) and the white wires to the side of the receptacle with the wide slots (and or silver-colored terminal screws).
The adapter should fit correctly only one way unless it's been modified, afaik. The wide slot on the adapter should line up with the wide slot on the receptacle. Or, put another way, the metal tab on the adapter should always be lined up to connect to the screw in the center of the receptacle cover.
Make sure it's all this way and retest it.
Not sure exactly what you mean by that, but I've assumed it's with respect to a GFI providing (or not) shock protection without a safety ground.
My understanding is that GFI measures the current differential between the hot and the "neutral" wire and does not depend on the safety grounding wire for the purpose of ground fault detection.
If difference between current "in" on the hot wire and current "out" on the "neutral" wire exceeds 5mA, the GFI circuit assumes the difference is potentially harmful leakage current and the GFI trips out. So, there is shock protection from a GFI even without a safety ground.
"Shock protection" really isn't the right term because a GFI doesn't prevent shocks. It merely trips out before the shock level gets to the generally accepted (UL defined) "can't let go" point. "Electrocution protection" might have been a better choice of terms on my behalf.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Doogie /forum/post/12834279
ONly if you have a solid ground back to the panel.
Not sure exactly what you mean by that, but I've assumed it's with respect to a GFI providing (or not) shock protection without a safety ground.
My understanding is that GFI measures the current differential between the hot and the "neutral" wire and does not depend on the safety grounding wire for the purpose of ground fault detection.
If difference between current "in" on the hot wire and current "out" on the "neutral" wire exceeds 5mA, the GFI circuit assumes the difference is potentially harmful leakage current and the GFI trips out. So, there is shock protection from a GFI even without a safety ground.
"Shock protection" really isn't the right term because a GFI doesn't prevent shocks. It merely trips out before the shock level gets to the generally accepted (UL defined) "can't let go" point. "Electrocution protection" might have been a better choice of terms on my behalf.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 /forum/post/12834433
Not sure exactly what you mean by that, but I've assumed it's with respect to a GFI providing (or not) shock protection without a safety ground.
My understanding is that GFI measures the current differential between the hot and the "neutral" wire and does not depend on the safety grounding wire for the purpose of ground fault detection.
Yes, you are correct, I believe most of these systems are 'residual' type sensing. We use the same terminology to describe similar protection for ungrounded three phase systems (delta).
Sometimes power conditioners won't work with GFI's. They may shunt enough noise current to the safety ground to exceed current differential set point.
It sounds like you want your plug grounded. Get a electrician to run a new circuit from the main panel to this outlet location. By doing this you will get a grounded plug the right way.
GFCI's aren't meant to protect people not components.
The reason why your surge protector says wiring fault is because it doesn't see a ground.
Quote:
Originally Posted by icedim /forum/post/12818828
I don't think my outlet is grounded even though I checked and there's a copper wire. Whenever I plug in my 3 prong adapter and the top is not screwed in, my surge protector says wiring fault.
IIRC there were 2 black wires and 2 white wires. I think only 1 of each was hooked to the screws. The copper wire is screwed to the side I think. They lead to a metal hole at the top with some paper wrapped around them. The box is plastic.
What's a good and easy way to get a grounded 3 prong outlet? This will only be used for a computer and I read that GFI is not good with it. Also 15 or 20 amp receptacle? Thanks in advance.
It sounds like you want your plug grounded. Get a electrician to run a new circuit from the main panel to this outlet location. By doing this you will get a grounded plug the right way.
GFCI's aren't meant to protect people not components.
The reason why your surge protector says wiring fault is because it doesn't see a ground.
Actually, I believe rather than running a complete new circuit, it's within NEC to run a separate grounding wire from the main panel to a receptacle.
True, but since your already doing this why not make it a dedicated circuit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 /forum/post/12840171
Actually, I believe rather than running a complete new circuit, it's within NEC to run a separate grounding wire from the main panel to a receptacle.
True, but since your already doing this why not make it a dedicated circuit?
May be easier, less expensive for sure.
For surge suppression and power conditioning, a separate safety ground wire is a bad idea.
The safety ground wire needs to be in close proximity to the other wires for the entire run.
The safety ground wire needs to be in close proximity to the other wires for the entire run.
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
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