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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since this is my first post here, I want to introduce myself a bit:


Film is pretty much my life, and after lurking around here for about a year, I finally bought a JVC G1000 (lightly used). The projector ROCKS but I am a bit paranoid about one thing - what to do if the power goes out? (and in California it's been known to happen). I mean, the bulb takes about 20-30 seconds to cool down after I press the operate button, but in the case of power outage, there would be only a "hard" power-off and no power for the fans to cool down the bulb.

I looked at UPS but am not sure if that's the way to go - I mean, going through the pain of finding a 1500W UPS and paying loads of cash for it...


Now, since I will build a hush box with ventilation, I was thinking of having the exhaust fan hooked up to a small UPS, or maybe having an extra exhaust that would be used only if power goes out, and hope that one or two of them could suck out enough hot air that the cool down process goes OK, and I don't end up with a dead or exploded bulb.


Anyone else as paranoid as I am?

And, if you are, beside 12 step programs, shrinks and so on, what else can you recommend for cooling down cycle in a case of power outage?
 

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I wouldn't worry.


these things are made for a commercial environment. That means hard use and dimwits at the controls.


I've powered mine down through a total power cutoff many times and it's in a hush box. I highly doubt a home user will have as many "power outages" as the normal commercial related abuses.


Also the fans are to protect the other components not the bulb.
 

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Don't pour ice water on it.
 

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I believe that someone authoritative posted that the primary reason fans run after a pj is off is so that the lamp can be started up again quickly. In other words, if the bulb doesn't cool off, and you try to turn it on again, it might take a few strikes to light. And extra strikes will shorten the length of the bulb.


Mike
 

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peterxs,

If you're still paranoid, try what I did. I have a hush box with a thermostat in it connected to a couple of fans in another room with conduit to carry the air to and from the hush box. The fans are plugged into a UPS (as is the projector). If I lose power there is plenty of time on the UPS to let the fans continue until the air in the hush box is plenty cool enough. The entire set-up cost me less than $200 (including the UPS.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Big THANKS to everyone for helping me cut down my prozac consumption! :)

Traveler, I love your setup - could you tell me what UPS you're using and for what PJ?


ps. No, I won't pour ice water on it ;)
 

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I've gopt an APCC SmartUPS 1400 with only the projector and the fan system plugged into it. All other components are running through a couple of Cinepro PowerPro II power conditioners. Click on the link in my sig to see pictures of my HT room including the hush box's conduit system I installed and the fan system installed two rooms away.


Since you promised not to pour ice water on it, I'll tell you that I've got a Sony VPL-HS10. Its loud fan makes a hush box a necessity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Cool! (pun intended) I'll prolly go the same route, except I plan on having only one strong exhaust fan in the conduit system, and will let the hush box take the room air as there will be no smoking around PJ.


Thanx!
 

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I've been using the Tripplite BC Pro 1400, it's worked well for my G-11.

I felt I really needed this because the projector runs in a crawlspace, which can get hot as hell in the summer.


[not to complicate things, but this UPS is the "questionable" squarewave-type output, but I saw no bad effect/issues at all on the projector when I tested it].


Also, BTW, there is a mod that can be done on the g1000 that doubles the fan runtime at power=off. Problem is, you have to use the factory service program to install it.


-Dave
 

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peterxs,

I decided to use air from another room for several reasons. First of all, it's a storage room that seems to be cooler than the rest of the house both summer and winter. Secondly, I dodn't want any openings between the projector and the room to prevent as much noise transmission as possible. Thirdly, since I already had to run the pipe in from the other room, installing a second run wasn't much extra work or cost.


Dave,

I'm leery about any of my electronics running off of square wave power. That's why I went with the SmartUPS 1400.
 

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I wouldn't worry about the lack of cool-down in the rare event of a power failure. As Tryg has said, these are designed for dimwitted marketing professionals giving business presentations, and having one of them pull the plug when done with a presentation is certainly within the design envelope. I just plug my G1000 right into a surge protector.


I personally don't have any UPSes in my house. Because they use batteries that wear out after a while, the true cost is usually many times the purchase price when you factor in the cost of replacement batteries. The environmental costs and hassle costs of troubleshooting and replacing bad UPSes are too much of a barrier to me. If you want to baby your equipment, spending the extra bux on higher quality surge suppression (ala panamax) is the way to go.


-Tom
 

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I'm leery about any of my electronics running off of square wave power. That's why I went with the SmartUPS 1400.


May I ask why? I have APC 1100, and I dont think it does true sine wave.

Will this damage my projector?
 

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Also, I had seen the service manual schematic of the projector before I picked this UPS. The complexity of the power conditioning circuitry in the G10/G11 is amazing- I counted 13 different components on two separate PC boards, all before the current hits the main power transformer.


Looks to me like these units already have an elaborate built-in surge protector.


Anyway, again, there is _no_ perceptible change in the HDTV picture when I kill the AC and let the projector run off this UPS.


But, I'd still prefer a sinewave output if it weren't for the $$$. :D


-Dave
 

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I managed to buy a pair of APC 2200VA rackmount UPSs from my old company as surplus (they had bought them at the Excite @Home auction, and had too many). Surplus is a great route to get a very powerful UPS for not much money at all (mine cost under $300 each).


My Sharp 9000 runs off of one of these, along with a bunch of other gear including one of the HTPCs, and only lights up the second LED (of something like 5 or 6) showing rated power output.


The ReplayTV and TiVo units, satellite receivers and multiswitches, and the other HTPC all run off of the other, and light up the first LED on that one.


If the power fails for less than a couple of minutes, I can keep running the whole system, with no audio (haven't tried hooking the power amps to the UPSs) -- just pause the program and wait for power. Longer than that, and there's plenty of time to shut the PJ down normally...


Best of all, since my sources are all satellite or OTA ATSC, there's a high likelihood of my recordings and/or pause buffers being completely intact through all but a very bad outage. (Yes, we've tested this. When we had cable, we had an outage, and the cable company's distribution amplifiers went down with the power, so we lost reception... Don't forget your own satellite multi-switches and/or cable distribution amplifiers if you want uninterrupted recording!)


Plus, these babies weigh 100+ pounds each, so they occupy the bottom slot in each of my 19" racks. They are much less likely to tip over that way... ;)


By the way, PbA (lead acid) batteries like those in UPSs can be recycled very effectively (99+%) and the batteries are available at decent prices if you buy them at a surplus shop instead of from a manufacturer like APC.
 

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There's usually a fair amount of protection circuitry on the front end. Multiple PCBs allow cramming primary (hazardous) circuits closer to secondary (safe) circuits and still meet safety requirements (like UL/EN60950). Basically, you can use 'clearance' distances instead of 'creepage' distances and can also put insulators between PCBs. It also allows the easy swapping of a PCB if lightning takes out the protection devices.


I used to take dead PBA's to Wal-Mart for recycling but now the garbage men take them during recycling day. I buy new batteries from work since we get them by the truckload (we design/manufacture embedded UPSs for our equipment). Our price is around $4 a piece. They're standard 12V, 7-8Ahr with 1/4" fastab terminals. Search around and you can get them retail for well under $10 each (+shipping).
 
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