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Discussion Starter #1
I have two marquees the one i have set up now has a raster that goes corner to corner on my tube face. I want to get the same raster size on my second unit for future blend or stack but i cant seam to get it wide enough like my other Marquee. Do i have to use the Horizontal width coils to acheive this?


Athansios
 

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Don't bother with the width coils. They are useless to get a larger raster width and are only there to "match" raster widths with each color. They won't get you even a 1/4" more in width.


Seems to me that I remember getting my old 9000LC's width pretty nice and wide. My newer 9500LC won't get me much width though.



It's gotta be a simple resistor change somewhere! I just wish I knew which one to replace. I know Gary Guidi's shop will modify the HDM to provide more raster width. But I think it's a $300-$500 mod? He does do other cool stuff to the HDM at the same time though.
 

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I hope someone can chime in here, I've also noticed that the width on one of my ultra's is greater than I can get with the other, which means they either have different throws or I underutilise one of them.
 

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FYI, I checked an old invoice from Hi-Rez (gary guidi) and it looks like at that time, they were going to charge me $400 for the HDM modifications. At the time I was going to have him do my VIM & Neckboards, etc. But wound up using Mike Parker for the VIM & Neckboard mods, so everything else with Gary fell through due to my lack of followup with him.


I actually sent Gary a PM about two weeks ago regarding the HDM modifications, but he has yet to reply.
 

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remove HDM, remove the daughter board from the HDM, and underneath where the daughter board came from, you'll see two pins that's labeled "P7"


Put a PC jumper mini connector on those two pins (short them out).


Replace the daughter board, replace the HDM, and forget about width problems..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Mike ! you rock! I'll try it today when i get home from work and will report back after.


Soon i hope to get the MP mods for both my Marquees!


Athanasios


One Question, you Obviously have to have the jumper left on when you replace to PJ to short it out correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also Mike I forgot to say that my green grid during the detaled set up guide, where you can center the grid i max out to soon on one of the vertical adjustments and cant truley get it centered top from bottom. Will this "short" mod fix that as well?


Athanasios
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashou66 /forum/post/0


Also Mike I forgot to say that my green grid during the detaled set up guide, where you can center the grid i max out to soon on one of the vertical adjustments and cant truley get it centered top from bottom. Will this "short" mod fix that as well?


Athanasios

After full initialization. Go into convergence service menu. select random, then press "zero" on the remote. This will null out the green convergence grid. And that would be your start point for centering the green CRT.


from there, only use the magnetics to center the raster. size as needed, but try not to center the raster using the remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Now to center using the magnetics, that is where is loosen the three wing nuts and the clamp inside the one yolk(forgot ite name). And turn it left or right to center correct?


Athanasios
 

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Cool stuff, Mike. I just checked the board and it looks like you're talking about P7. Wish I'd known about this when my tubes were still virgin. I'll check things out tonight and see if I get that extra raster width now.


Thanks!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp20748 /forum/post/0


from there, only use the magnetics to center the raster. size as needed, but try not to center the raster using the remote.

Mike, I put a near-new green into my 8500, and for some reason I cannot seem to center the thing with the focus yoke. The yoke only seems to move it diagonally (down-left and up-right) and a bit to the left, and I need to move it to the right. I didn't have this problem with the old green and the same yoke. Any guesses what I might be doing wrong?


Tnx!

Gary
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyfritz /forum/post/0


Mike, I put a near-new green into my 8500, and for some reason I cannot seem to center the thing with the focus yoke. The yoke only seems to move it diagonally (down-left and up-right) and a bit to the left, and I need to move it to the right. I didn't have this problem with the old green and the same yoke. Any guesses what I might be doing wrong?


Tnx!

Gary

When replacing bare tubes using the magnetics from the previous tubes, it's very important to strip down (remove all glue) the magnetics. If the magnetics are not stripped, you could have problems centering the raster using the focus yoke.


At times, and this depends on the amount of glue applied to the focus yoke, you'll need to disassemble it entirely. That would be the best way to strip all glues. otherwise, the outer coil assembly of the focus coil would not have equal rotation around the inner section of the coil. It is very important for the focus coil's out section to have total movement around the inner section.


That would more likely be the reason you're not able to get good centering using the magnetics, and if you want the best focus across the screen, don't center the raster using the remote.


Also, make sure to remove all glues on other things on the tubes assemblies. And this applies to the rings, which should also be carefully stripped.
 

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Hmmm. I don't recall seeing ANY glue on the focus yoke, but I'll pull it off and take a look. It does seem like the coil's movement is restricted so maybe there is something in there. Where should I be looking for glue? On the inside barrel of the focus yoke, or...?


Or are you saying you need to strip glue off ALL the magnetics? I hope not, that would be a b*tch to get them all off without pulling the tube.


Thanks Mike!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyfritz /forum/post/0


Mike, I put a near-new green into my 8500, and for some reason I cannot seem to center the thing with the focus yoke. Gary

You can't use only the yoke, you have to swing the flare knob around as well to move the raster. This is where it gets tricky, the 2 things affect each other and have to be dialed in until they're not fighting amongst themselves.
 

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I was talking about this to MP this morning. About a year ago we needed to increase the width on my machine, We found out about the jumper adjustment from Scott at VDC who posts here on occasion re gamma and other things. He responded to my e-mail with the jumper sugestion. MP did it. I haven't a clue as to how it alters the circuit.
 

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Well I checked the thread to make sure nobody blew up their Marquee's today. Not that I don't trust Mike, but I figured better safe than sorry. So... when nobody fessed up to blowing bits... I went ahead and did the jumper trick about 30 minutes ago.


The bad news is that it is not the magic trick that lets you wrap the raster all the way around to the back side of the CRT's.


The good news is that it did give me MORE raster width that I have seen on this projector before! So while I can't stretch my image area to the raster edge, I can at least bring the image area *almost* to the point where I probably shouldn't go any further anyway.



Thanks Mike and TSE!
 

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Btw, it was good for almost two more inches on my screen surface.


I robbed the jumper from the motherboard on my spare computer. Gotta get down to the storage room this weekend and pull out the spare parts bin to replace it!
 
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