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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a 5' x 10' Parkland sheet and have been using it for a week just tacked to the wall. I went this weekend to staple it down perminately so I could put the black velvet around it. Well, I can't get the waves or bows out of the material now matter how tight I try to pull it before I staple each side.


How is everyone else doing this? I am applying the Parkland sheet right to the drywall. Should I use adhesive between the screen and the wall as well or instead of the staples?


Please help!!


Thanks,


Rob
 

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If your driveway is black and flat, lay it out there when it is hot. It is plastic after all and it should get more pliable with a little temperature... Or a similar concept would be to put a very moist towel in the microwave and get it very hot (use some gloves) and wipe down the plastic on a very flat surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, still no luck. I used the liquid nails adhesive that Home Depot recommended for the Parkland Polywall. I used two full tubes all over the back, and spent an hour pressing on it to get it flat. It started off good, but a few hours later I had more big "bubbles" in between the screen and the wall. I just can't win. Maybe I got a defective sheet or something.


Any other ideas?


Thanks,


Rob
 

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I had similar problems getting my parkland sheet flat. I ended up scrapping it and making a screen out of blackout fabric. It was very easy to stretch flat. I'm currently waiting on some HCCV samples to see if it's worth rebuilding the screen. Or I might just 'Goo' it.
 

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I haven't started to mount my Parkland yet (it's still in the box), but I plan to mount it just like a laminate top. I'll either use contact cement (I'll test this on a small sample first) or go with one of the adhesives Parkland recommends.


They key is to make sure that the glue is evenly spread. Use roller or a brush. I know that's hard to do with a thick adhesive.


Rob-

Sorry to say, but you probably used too MUCH adhesive. The key is a consistent thin layer. I recommend that you call Parkland and ask for help or suggestions.


Of course, none of my suppositions are based on actual experience, so I could be all wrong. However, I've seen enough laminate (like formica) mounted to have a good guess.
 

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This is why I also scrapped the Parkland and went instead to Gatorfoam wrapped with HCCV material. More expensive, but definitely better IMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone,


I think I am going to scrap the Parkland as well. I am going to pick up a sample of the blackout fabric and see how it looks.


Hoxford: how do you like the blackout compared to the Parkland as far as picture quality and contrast? I like the picture from the Parkland, but can not live with the "bubbles".


Thanks again everyone.


Rob
 

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As posted in another thread , I mounted the Parkland sheet on a piece of foamboard. To get good results, I


1) Let the Parkland sheet sit spread out flat on the floor for a couple of days


2) Spread the adhesive with a notched-tooth adhesive spreader. I think this part is a real key to success. I used the smallest teeth on the four sides of the spreader, if memory serves.
 

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I decided against using the standard adhesive that was recommended by Parkland because my screen also had distortions and waves in it after I removed it from the box. I had it laying on the concrete floor of my garage for 2 weeks after unpacking it with weight on it the entire time and the waves never flattened out. I used contact cement (3M, I believe). I used a contact cement roller and rolled it out on both surfaces. I ended up bonding my 5' x 8' sheet to a 1/2" piece of plywood which I edged with trim to finish it out. After the adhesive was dry to the touch, I laid the plastic sheet down on some scrap trim pieces I had to space it away from the plywood. Starting in the middle, I rolled the entire sheet out from the center using a 3" J-roller removing one spacer shim at a time. After completion, I have absolutely no bumps or waves in the material and the screen is completely flat and even.
 

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TWilly,


How did you bond the HCCV material to the foam board (I assume that is what GatorFoam is)? Can I ask what your impression of the HCCV material.


Thanks, Phil
 

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I used Velcro tape (this idea from Mr. Wigggles)!


The 1/2" Gatorfoam is like foamboard, but much stiffer, with absolutely no warpage. So I used a circular saw to cut it from 60x120 to 60x108. On the back of the Gatorfoam, about 1" from the edge, I laid down a border of Velcro tape all the way around. Same thing with the HCCV material, which I had ordered 68"x116", so I could have 4" extra on each side. I stretched it using canvas stretching instructions someone here had a link to (top middle, then bottom middle, then left middle, then right middle, then work you way to the corners), and simply attached the Velcro. Works great, since if you find a wave, you can easily undo the velcro and re-attach


Then, I nailed two 2x4x96 5/8's to the wall horizontally, with the 3 1/2" side jutting out from the wall. To do this, I had to use 6" landscape spikes from HD. The 2x4's are just under 4' apart. Again, laid a line of Velcro tape on the 1 1/2" side of the 2x4's and stuck the wrapped Gatorfoam to the 2x4s.


Last, I got some blue rope light from Target and put it in a rectangle just on the outside of the 2x4's. Gives great bias lighting.


I'm going to buy some more Gatorfoam (3/16" this time) and build some masking.


Sorry for the long answer to the short question ;)
 

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TWilly thanks for the idea.


I have been trying to decide if I should buy the PermWall screen or try and make one. Not to beat a dead horse, so you like the material itself.


Phil
 

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Oh yeah. I really do. I like the slight gain and the gray, although it doesn't help the blacks as much as I had hoped.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Ables
Hoxford: how do you like the blackout compared to the Parkland as far as picture quality and contrast? I like the picture from the Parkland, but can not live with the "bubbles".
I think it's comparable. The blackout material is a little less white but not by much.


I do plan to either paint it, 'Goo' it, or switch to HCCV, though. I'm always looking for a new tweak. :)
 

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I plan to abandon the Parkland Plastics screen as well. I'm on my second screen and have not successfully removed bubbles/warps. I believe I'll try the blackout fabric too. If it has a gain anywhere near the Parkland, I'll be happy with it, plus it will be lighter to lift in case I want to take it down.


Ultimately, I would like to make a 4:3 screen for my PJ, roughly 65"H x 87"W, but I can't find anything (other than more expensive screen material) that is made that high or wide. Any suggestions?


Thanks,

Steve
 

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Hi!


Why I didn't read this before?:(


I receive the Parkland material with bubbles and warps, It looks so flexible that I tryed to tackle it to a wooden frame. Big mistake!!!. This material is an enigma!!!, is very flexible and if you bend it to much it get permanently marked, but it is stiff enough not to allow you to stretch it. So now I'm going to try gluing it. I went to my local Home Depot and found only two flat surfaces, one is 4'x8' card board and the other is 4'x8' foam board (can't find gatorboard).


If I use the cardboard contact cement can be used, it is a stronger glue but then more difficult to use. If I use the foam board I have to use a water base glue but then I don't know if the glue will be strong enough to eliminate the warps. Can you please tell me what's the best approach and tell me what glues to use on each case (please be very specific).


I also found one of the manufacturers recommended glues the Harry frp-444. Can that glue be used with the foam board? Is this glue strong enough to handle the warps?


Thanks!!!
 

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Edil,


For Gatorfoam, try a sign company, and ask them to call their distributors. Or, call a plastics distributor directly. I got mine through Laird Plastics (here's their website ). They have locations around the country.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I scrapped the Parkland and finished my blackout fabric screen last night. I just have to hang it tonight after work. I have to say that this was not hard to do, and I am MUCH happier with this fabric pulled over a 1x3 frame than the Parkland. It is perfectly flat in every square inch, and it gives better black levels as well with no blinding whites on super bright scenes like the Parkland did. I was happy and would have lived with the Parkland if it had not been for the warps and bubbles in the material.


Good luck to all,


Rob
 

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I used a 4x8 sheet of Parkland with great success. I think the trick is to install it just like a piece of plastic laminate. I mounted mine on a 1/2" piece of particle board. Particle board is probably one of the most stable/flat pieces of material there is. Problem is 5x8 or 5x10 sheets are very hard to come by. To mount the plastic I troweled on the Henry's FRP-444 with an 1/8" v-notch trowel. It is a latex based cement which is much easier to work with than contact cement. Then I positioned the plastic and ran a roller over it. Starting at the center and working toward the edges. I hung it on the wall using Grant clips. It's just two s-shaped pieces of metal. One is attached to the wall. The other is attached to the back of the screen. They just hook together. But it takes two people to lift it onto the wall. One more thing. Too avoid problems with bubbles I believe the trick is to let all of the materials acclimate for at least 24 hours. I laid everything out on the basement floor for a couple days before assembly. If they are different temperatures it can create problems.


Ron
 
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