How to mount a CRT?
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Well, generally before mounting a CRT, flowers and a box of chocolates are recomended.
But seriously, I doubt there are tutorials for this. I installed a 1272, sooooo...... First you determine the exact distance the PJ needs to be from the screen, and of course the exact center. Then you attach the mount to the ceiling. The way I did this is by drilling a few holes into 2, 2x6 boards that I nailed across 4 of the ceiling joists. I then used allthread rods and big washers to clamp the mount to the ceiling and through the beams. The load is spread over a large area this way. I then had some friends help me pick the projector up and slide it over the hooks that attach it to the ceiling mount. Then you tighten a few bolts, and that's pretty much it. A hole was also drilled above the projector to feed all the cables through the ceiling, down to a closet where all the equipment is hidden.
If you don't have an original sony mount, I suggest you get one if possible. Makes it very easy to do. Otherwise you will have to sit down and figure out how to make your own mount. A few people use unistrut for this, and it's great if you want to be able to slide the projector back and forth, but it does not look as neat.
Hope that helps a bit. It took me a half hour to mount the thing, that's easy.... 6 hours to tweak in the picture
Marc
But seriously, I doubt there are tutorials for this. I installed a 1272, sooooo...... First you determine the exact distance the PJ needs to be from the screen, and of course the exact center. Then you attach the mount to the ceiling. The way I did this is by drilling a few holes into 2, 2x6 boards that I nailed across 4 of the ceiling joists. I then used allthread rods and big washers to clamp the mount to the ceiling and through the beams. The load is spread over a large area this way. I then had some friends help me pick the projector up and slide it over the hooks that attach it to the ceiling mount. Then you tighten a few bolts, and that's pretty much it. A hole was also drilled above the projector to feed all the cables through the ceiling, down to a closet where all the equipment is hidden.
If you don't have an original sony mount, I suggest you get one if possible. Makes it very easy to do. Otherwise you will have to sit down and figure out how to make your own mount. A few people use unistrut for this, and it's great if you want to be able to slide the projector back and forth, but it does not look as neat.
Hope that helps a bit. It took me a half hour to mount the thing, that's easy.... 6 hours to tweak in the picture
Marc
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LOL Walking on the edge of pornography there mate
_Lars
Walking on the edge of pornography there mate _Lars
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For complete instructions on how to mount a CRT projector with Unistrut (inexpensive solution), see this link:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...threadid=94420
Kal
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...threadid=94420
Kal
I used Unistrut as well. I marked the exact center of the joists before the sheetrock guy did the ceiling, and put small placeholder lag bolts in the holes which the sheetrocker cut around. I did this so that I was confident that the lag bolts were securely fastened. Initially I attached Unistrut to two ceiling joists, but later upgraded this to three joists.
Here's a sequence of pictures detailing my Unistrut mounting system. I rented a Genie Lift from a local rental store for this. You can choose "Original" size from the drop-down box to see more detail.
You can see a clever way to raise the projector using common threaded rod and Unistrut here (found by a fellow forum member). This is what I did when I decided to drop the projector down and add a piece of Unistrut to the third joist.
Hopefully this gives you some ideas to think about.
- Chris
Here's a sequence of pictures detailing my Unistrut mounting system. I rented a Genie Lift from a local rental store for this. You can choose "Original" size from the drop-down box to see more detail.
You can see a clever way to raise the projector using common threaded rod and Unistrut here (found by a fellow forum member). This is what I did when I decided to drop the projector down and add a piece of Unistrut to the third joist.
Hopefully this gives you some ideas to think about.
- Chris
I used uni-strut also when hanging my 1270 from the ceiling. I was only able to use two joists due to the layout of the room and the low ceiling. I used angled brackets to bolt the unistrut to the side of the joists with 1/2 bolts. The two uni-struts are three feet long and have three brackets bolted to through the joists. One bracket in the center and one at each end. Then projector then hangs by short pieces of threaded rod.
Pete
Pete
I used uni-strut also when hanging my 1270 from the ceiling. I was only able to use two joists due to the layout of the room and the low ceiling. I used angled brackets to bolt the unistrut to the side of the joists with 1/2 bolts. The two uni-struts are three feet long and have three brackets bolted to through the joists. One bracket in the center and one at each end. Then projector then hangs by short pieces of threaded rod.
Pete
Pete
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably end up getting the sony mount ... it seems to be the easiest solution.
I think there are some jumpers that need to be set to invert the picture for when its ceiling mounted. Anyone know where they are?
I think there are some jumpers that need to be set to invert the picture for when its ceiling mounted. Anyone know where they are?
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Not true.
Yes, fixed mounts are usually the easiest way to get the PJ up on the ceiling, but unless you install it in the *exact* right location (within an inch) you won't have perfect geometry and use of phosphor.
You'll then want to move the PJ an inch or two left/right/forward/back/up/down, but you can't do this with a fixed mount while you can with a unistrut mount.
Because of this, unistrut is actually easier in the end.
Even with unistruy, I measured, measure again, then measured a third time before mounting. Didn't matter as I still ended up moving my PJ forward 3 inches and 2 inches to the right to get it *exactly* in the right spot.
Variable mounts are always recommended to everyone who have never mounted a PJ before.
Kal
| Originally posted by gusx Thanks for the advice. I'll probably end up getting the sony mount ... it seems to be the easiest solution. |
Yes, fixed mounts are usually the easiest way to get the PJ up on the ceiling, but unless you install it in the *exact* right location (within an inch) you won't have perfect geometry and use of phosphor.
You'll then want to move the PJ an inch or two left/right/forward/back/up/down, but you can't do this with a fixed mount while you can with a unistrut mount.
Because of this, unistrut is actually easier in the end.
Even with unistruy, I measured, measure again, then measured a third time before mounting. Didn't matter as I still ended up moving my PJ forward 3 inches and 2 inches to the right to get it *exactly* in the right spot.
Variable mounts are always recommended to everyone who have never mounted a PJ before.
Kal
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Any decent hardware store will have Unistrut, Powerstrut, Superstrut, or some other maker's equivalent.
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Sure. The system will tolerate a certain degree of misalighmnet, so you can lower the front and/or raise the rear.
| Originally posted by BugMan74 Unistrut huh... That's looks like a much better solution than what I was designing! Is it available at general local hardware stores? |
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I see it makes it able to adjust side-side, and front-rear, but what about tilt? |
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Hey, Where was this thread 4 days ago? I bought a ceiling mount for my sony 1252 on ebay for $100 (search sony mount) I could have got the parts for unistrut at work for Free$$$$. Believe it or not I thought of the adjustment Issue but I thought "surely the mount is adjustable back and forth and side to side. Oh well live and learn.
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I will be moving in one week and was planning on modifying some bunk bed pieces to make a large shelf that stands in the center of the room. The projector will sit on top, with the rear end tilted up so that the lenses are angled downward.
Will this work? I was just worried that the tilting might throw off something like keystone or geometry. The PJ is a Marquee 8111. I saw something similar to this in the manual where the PJ was on a rolling cart at about chest height, and the rear end was raised just slightly so that the lenses were parallel with the floor. In my setup the rear will be raised even higher.
Thanks,
Alex
Will this work? I was just worried that the tilting might throw off something like keystone or geometry. The PJ is a Marquee 8111. I saw something similar to this in the manual where the PJ was on a rolling cart at about chest height, and the rear end was raised just slightly so that the lenses were parallel with the floor. In my setup the rear will be raised even higher.
Thanks,
Alex
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Having the PJ lenses half way up the screen with the butt tilted up so that lense are perpendicular to the floor is the *BEST* way to set one of these things up and is what's usually done when people rear-project onto the screen. This sort of setup means that the tubes are perfectly square to the screen and not keystone adjustment is necessary. Because of this, the image in the tube faces will be perfectly square (not trapezoidal) so you can go even a bit wider on your usage of the tube face (compared to the rest of us that are floor/ceiling mounted) and move the PJ slightly closer.
The only problem of course is that you have a large projector sitting 4' or so off the ground blocking all view from people behind it!
Kal
| Originally posted by alexshine I will be moving in one week and was planning on modifying some bunk bed pieces to make a large shelf that stands in the center of the room. The projector will sit on top, with the rear end tilted up so that the lenses are angled downward. Will this work? I was just worried that the tilting might throw off something like keystone or geometry. The PJ is a Marquee 8111. I saw something similar to this in the manual where the PJ was on a rolling cart at about chest height, and the rear end was raised just slightly so that the lenses were parallel with the floor. In my setup the rear will be raised even higher. |
The only problem of course is that you have a large projector sitting 4' or so off the ground blocking all view from people behind it!
Kal
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