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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I prepare for the arrival of our ECP 3501 I have begun to wonder as to how I will eventually mount this thing on the ceiling. Fortunately, when our house was being built I had the foresight to take pictures in the room where it will be mounted. In the following picture you can see that there are 2x4 spanning some 2x6 ceiling joists.


I'm pretty sure that those 2x4 are not securely attached to the ceiling joists to the point of being able to support a CRT pj. Does anyone have any suggestions for reinforcing them so that they would be able to?

Bonus Room Ceiling


I am considering ripping out the ceiling and spanning some 2x6 across and bolting them to the 2x6 ceiling joists.


Any ideas?


-Jason
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Jason Pancake
I am considering ripping out the ceiling and spanning some 2x6 across and bolting them to the 2x6 ceiling joists.


Any ideas?


-Jason
I wouldn't rip out anything, your trusses were engineered just as they are...and those staple plates they assemble them with are very strong.

If it were me (I've done a couple this way) I'd cut 2 2X4's that would lay across three of horizontal ceiling 2X4's...this distrubutes the weight over three trusses...then if your trusses are on 24" centers, cut 23" long 2X4 spacers that sit inbetween the trusses...you must also have 2, 7" long pieces of 2X4 for each 23" spacer you have (4 spacers equals 8, 7" pieces) These pieces are used to glue&screw the 23" spacers to the weight distributing 2X4's.

Assuming your trusses are on 24" centers, what you'll end up with is two 2X4 that are about 52" long, each having two 23" 2X4 pieces, with a 1.75" gap between them, this gap is centered on the 52" piece.

You will screw&glue those three pieces together with the 7" pieces.

If done correctly, you just set the mount on top of the ceiling's 2X4s, the 23" spacers will fill in the area inbetween the ceiling's 2X4s, you can then adjust the width needed so your pj's mount will bolt into those 23" spacers. I use 5" lag bolts for that.
 

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Well I see youll have to remove some drywall because theres no attic space up there or a way to get up there if you go by my picture and so all the bracing in the attic space and not in the room space.


The 2 X 4's should be able to hold attached with the nailer plates.


Knowing that you will hang a PJ from use 3 2X6's between the ceilign joists so that 2 of them are between the joists and centered where the Pj is going to hange and the third one to go accross the tops of te joists and screwed to the two that you have fitted between the joists so that the weight of the PJ is actually hanging from the roof supports.


Refer to my drawing for a better view:
 

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You could also bridge the roof trusses where your ceiling supports are with Unistrut or Kindorf channel. Be sure to lag the unistrut where it crosses the joists. You can then run threaded rod through the sheetrock. I agree with VR, with this small space and insulation codes, this probably isn't a useable attic, so the only access you have is with a saw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies, guys. You have some really good ideas.


Bojik:

According to the manual the projector weighs 99 lbs. (45Kg) but I am not sure of the dimensions. I won't have the ECP mount so I will most likely be using a homegrown solution using Unistrut.


Jason
 

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According to your picture your framing is not typical truss work. The builder has used the the 2x4 horizontal between the rafters as a collar tie. Which is more like conventional "stick built " framing. It's primary stress design is outward. While it will certainly hold the weight of a drywall ceiling I would be a bit concerned about a vertical load especially as it looks like there is a vertical member centered on those up to the peak of the roof which is loading the 2x4 already. An engineered truss has diagonal members to transfer load stress outward instead of down. (like the section to right of your picture. As a builder I would look to support the unit directly from the rafters instead. Or add a pair of diagonals to each joist that will be involved. They need not be neatly mitered joints like at the truss junctions and can be lapped on top of the raftersand ceiling members instead of in between as would be the professional way. The work should be able to be done through a hole in the drywall about the size of the projector.
 
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