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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been "frustrated" for sometime b/c although mid/highs are contained in my HT, the LFE from the subwoofer rattles the upstairs slightly (enough to disturb/scare my younger kids ).

ANYWAY, I just realized as I decided to revisit this looking around for cracks /opening perhaps leaking sound that the post from the house I think this is called "lally column" (holding up the main support beam of the house) is located in my HT without ANYthing on it.


I'm hoping this is the cause of the noise upstairs.

Now...how can I fully soundproof it so that no sound (especially subwoofer sound/vibrations get to it)

pic attached.


thx
 

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You would enclose it in a soundproof surround, Think of a really small soundproofed room.


For what it is worth I really doubt what is scaring the kids is coming from the post,


You need to describe your theater room and how the walls and ceiling were constructed. Also how your HVAC connects to the theater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why do you think that the exposed lally post is not the cause (not that I know any better, just curious)?


Interesting thing is that you can hear the rumblings from the HT from the upstairs and 2nd floor better than you can hear it from a room adjacent to the HT.


room is pretty much a rectangle with the main beam of the house travelling the long way (i.e. front of HT to back), this enclose in DW+GG+Wood panel+GG+DW enclosure hanging from furring strips (this was a late addition the project and I was wise enough to get advice.
Back Wall - concrete wall of house - nothing added
Side Wall (opposite door) - Concrete wall of house + 2x4 + Single Layer DW
Side Wall (adjacent to door) - DW+GG+DW attached directly to joists
Ceiling : DW+DW (I think I sandwiched GG in between - not positive) attached directly to joists (shoulda known better)
Front Wall - DW +space + double DW (not sure if I GG'd in between)

Gaps sealed all around with latex painters caulk.
No HVAC - I have a collapsable dryer vent attached to an air pump/blower in the adjacent room. This vent collapses behind a small door (DW+Wood) in the gap between room(gap filled with R-13 insulation) when I'm watching a movie.

Note another possible big leakage- the ceiling was built around a flouresent light fixture (i.e. nothing between light fixture and ceiling beam)
 

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Back wall- potential flanking paths

Side wall - Potential flanking paths and Vibration of studs passing into joists

Side wall - Vibration of studs passing into joists above

Ceiling - You already know it isn't decoupled.

Front wall - not sure

Whats up with that light?


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 /forum/post/20868841


Interesting thing is that you can hear the rumblings from the HT from the upstairs and 2nd floor better than you can hear it from a room adjacent to the HT.


From what I can tell you used some GG as a dampening agent and added extra mass. What is missing is the mechanical isolation of the ceiling and walls and the rooms framing and ceiling joists are shaking the rooms above creating sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what's the best course of action?

i.e. most likely /cost effective

b/c it's almost acceptable - i.e. it's not loud upstairs, they just hear/feel some rumbling - hopefully this can be fixed w/o a major project.


re: the light - what are you asking? It's recessed into the ceiling - i.e. it's a flousecent light which runs side to side, and the ceiling was built around it , with it attached directly to the ceiling joists.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 /forum/post/20868920


re: the light - what are you asking?

I'm asking why you left it if you are trying to soundproof the room. In the scheme of things light fixtures aren't that expensive.


Back to your original question how long do you plan to stay in this house and what kind of budget do you have? I haven't had my coffee yet so I'm in my cranky mood. Basically I think you wasted your money on the extra drywall and green glue. If you don't want to hear the rumble you really need to use clips and channel and work on containing any wall/ceiling penetrations.


You didn't talk about whether the room shares duct work with the rest of the house.
 

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Hi! Keep in mind that... 1. You are not soundproofing anything. What you are trying to do is sound isolate. The walls are no where near thick enough to completely stop low frequency waves from leaving the room. This is due to the wavelength of such waves. The whole point of sound isolation is to keep sound from entering the room...not leaving it. If you want to completely stop all waves, you'll need very, very thick walls. 2. Any crack, crevice or whatever that leaves exposure to the rest of the frame of the house...including the floor of your theater room...is a point that will mitigate the sound isolation efforts of your room. The more there are, the worse sound leakage will become. Is the floor treated? Keep in mind, concrete and metal transfer sound energy veeeeeeeery efficiently to the rest of the house. Think of the room as a fish tank, if water could leak out of it, so can and will air/sound. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/20869419


I'm asking why you left it if you are trying to soundproof the room. In the scheme of things light fixtures aren't that expensive.

Stupidity - the light fixture was there first, and I didn't think it'd cause a problem 2 floors up.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/20869419


Back to your original question how long do you plan to stay in this house and what kind of budget do you have?

You didn't talk about whether the room shares duct work with the rest of the house.

I'd love to move to my dream location, but realistically plan on long term

Budget ~ $500

No duct work (only electricity)



Ideally I'd do this in stages

first - the lally column (as this doesn't involve moving any existing structure)

2nd - the light

3rd - the rest


perhaps 1st maybe 2nd - could provide enough for my purposes (keep from disturbing upstairs)

and if not, I can continue on
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SierraMikeBravo /forum/post/20869467


Is the floor treated? Keep in mind, concrete and metal transfer sound energy veeeeeeeery efficiently to the rest of the house. Think of the room as a fish tank, if water could leak out of it, so can and will air/sound. Hope this helps.

Floor is not - it is concrete foundation of house, with laminate on top

(thanks I didn't realize concrete could transfer sound - again ignorant here)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgott42 /forum/post/20869746


Floor is not - it is concrete foundation of house, with laminate on top

(thanks I didn't realize concrete could transfer sound - again ignorant here)

I'd say that is one of your biggest problems for hearing the sound being transferred to the rest of the house. Especially considering that's likely what your subwoofer(s) is sitting on.
 
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