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Discussion Starter #41
You are dead on about being careful when talking to people around here. You can be led astray and down a deep dark rabbit hole in the blink of a eye. But i figured that i would eventually want a second sub and it would be best if they were both the same from the same batch. So once i get them i assume that the sp1-4000 will be enough power for the pair of subs. Any thoughts?
 

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You are dead on about being careful when talking to people around here. You can be led astray and down a deep dark rabbit hole in the blink of a eye. But i figured that i would eventually want a second sub and it would be best if they were both the same from the same batch. So once i get them i assume that the sp1-4000 will be enough power for the pair of subs. Any thoughts?
perhaps elaborate about this dark rabbit hole :eek:
 

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If the rabbit hole was all that bad then why do they keep coming back for MOAR, it can't be all that bad then ;)

Plot twist: Maybe it's because they can't get out... Just like in every vampire movie before the club-music stops after the doors are sealed shut and all hell breaks loose.
You left JUST in-time...
But NEXT time, we will be waiting! :D
 

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Interesting thread.


Earlier this year I decided that my JTR Cap 1400 was not enough for my more than 6000cuft living room/kitchen/dining space. I ordered 2 HS24 subs from SI and set out to build cabinets for them. I am building 2 down firing end tables. I just finished building 1 cabinet(work situation does not allow me much time). I went through the same dilemma of amp choice. The speaker power rack amps are out of budget for now for me so I wanted to get a speaker power plate amp instead.....


I think the plate amps are a much better value given power to cost ratio. My issue was that the rack amp gives me flexibility of placement of the subs without having to worry about a power source in the part of the room I will put the sub for the plate amp(need to connect sub to power, plus I would not have to worry about the slot for the amp in the cabinet. So again I changed my mind and decided on a rack amp.



I toyed with the idea of buying Crest Audio Pro-lite 7.5 for both subs - 2810w @4ohms 20ms bursts both channels driven. Then I found out that the Pro lite 3.0 actually does 3150w bridged @4ohm. So long story short I bought the Pro-lite 3.0 DSP for the one sub and I will buy a second Pro-lite 3.0 for the second sub.



My initial thoughts.... It took me a while to figure out the amp dsp(I still have not figured it out honestly). I am not done dialing anything in and my sub sounds quite terrible(very boomy) at the moment:eek::eek:. I put it at the same place the cap 1400 was. This being my first DIY project I had the misconception that it will be easy, I have learnt I have to properly calibrate my system. I am planning on buying measuring mic to measure the in room response plus minidsp for calibration. As for the sound I have lost some oomph in movies as compared to the captivator(my room is huge) but I can already hear the big difference in music in favor of the HS24.



Sorry for long post....
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Wow your journey is very similar to mine. I am still pondering what I am still a little up in the air an the amp and will have to check out the ones you listed there. One thought i had was that if i get the plate amp from sp and then need a second one for placement issues that is still cheaper than the rack mount version. But i will need to decide eventually what i want. According to Nick i probably wont have my subs till mid August as he is waiting on parts so i have a little bit of time to think about it. I am lso planning to get a mini dsp to help tune everything, but i also need to get a new reciver and everything else as i cant upgrade anything now without doing everything. So i started with the sub as it will work with what i have and i will make the rest what i want as time moves on.
 

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What dsp settings do you have configured on the Prolite?
The amp has;
volume - set at -24 after audyssey calibration.

Crossover - 110hz with BW-24db

EQ - 25hz bump 6db, 30hz bump 6db, 40hz bump 6db, 60hz bump 5db, 80hz bump 5db. (all this is without measurement so it's literally just guess work until I can measure.

Delay - 0
limiter - 0
 

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The amp has;
volume - set at -24 after audyssey calibration.

Crossover - 110hz with BW-24db

EQ - 25hz bump 6db, 30hz bump 6db, 40hz bump 6db, 60hz bump 5db, 80hz bump 5db. (all this is without measurement so it's literally just guess work until I can measure.

Delay - 0
limiter - 0
Oh yeah thats going to sound boomy, generally with a native sealed box youll need to shape the response to extend it down low, and bring the higher bass down, right now youve just boosted everything by 5 or 6 db.

Do you have a crossover set on the AV receiver/processor for the subout? You won't need an additional low pass at 110 Hz on the sub amp in that case.

Edit to add: if you have Audessey available I would remove all the boost in the subamp, and calibrate that way. Then use the dsp as neeed once you can measure actual response.

Scroll down to the basic response chart here, thats prob a good approximation of about what you are getting without dsp:

https://data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=115&mset=127
 

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I know....


Deep down I still wonder what the difference would be with the SP amps from the pro-lite. I chose the pro-lite dsp version because of dsp tweaking flexibility, Once I have it figured out maybe I will be happier.
With a sealed sub I would suggest a low shelf to maximize ULF extension from those jumbo 24s, not sure if thats an option in your amp. The Speakerpower is the top tier solution, flawless test results with sustained max power available for several seconds when many others can only burst for far less time, and silent, but needs external dsp for your use case. Now there was talk of diysoundgroup creating a custom eq for the speakerpower amps, for the hst18 and hs24 in sealed cabs, that was put on hold due to the release of thd v3 drivers but apparently shouldnt affect the eq setings at all, if thats an option you can afford they've done all the hard work for you in terms of eq. Erich may be able to assist.
 

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Oh yeah thats going to sound boomy, generally with a native sealed box youll need to shape the response to extend it down low, and bring the higher bass down, right now youve just boosted everything by 5 or 6 db.

Do you have a crossover set on the AV receiver/processor for the subout? You won't need an additional low pass at 110 Hz on the sub amp in that case.

Edit to add: if you have Audessey available I would remove all the boost in the subamp, and calibrate that way. Then use the dsp as neeed once you can measure actual response.

Scroll down to the basic response chart here, thats prob a good approximation of about what you are getting without dsp:

https://data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=115&mset=127

Thanks for your suggestions. I played the sub without any EQ on the amp and it sounds much better. I only listened to music which I like so far. I will try movies next. I think I was just being too greedy:)
 

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With a sealed sub I would suggest a low shelf to maximize ULF extension from those jumbo 24s, not sure if thats an option in your amp. The Speakerpower is the top tier solution, flawless test results with sustained max power available for several seconds when many others can only burst for far less time, and silent, but needs external dsp for your use case. Now there was talk of diysoundgroup creating a custom eq for the speakerpower amps, for the hst18 and hs24 in sealed cabs, that was put on hold due to the release of thd v3 drivers but apparently shouldnt affect the eq setings at all, if thats an option you can afford they've done all the hard work for you in terms of eq. Erich may be able to assist.
I don't think my amp has that capability for a low shelf. I have not built the second sub cabinet so I still have time to choose a different amp if I feel the need.
 

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Now there was talk of diysoundgroup creating a custom eq for the speakerpower amps...........Erich may be able to assist.
Do we know how hard this would be to even have happen?

I ask because I had looked at getting a minidsp or other for EQ/DSP and a SP6000. There is the alternative of the mini and a FP14000 but havent decided what to do yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I am glad to hear your sub is sounding better with a little tuning, @JamesTaylor2 and probably a lot better with more tuning. That is where the hobbie is. So what did you go for wit box size? I thought it use to say 10 to 16cf on the Si web page but now says 8 to 12cf. Do we know if Nick is starting to soft release the V3 24's? I am not opposed to needing smaller boxes just was a little surprised to see that. I can't wait until mine show up. I think they will be a lot of fun.
 

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I asked Nick about the v3 24 and he said he was already using them. I asked him about this a week ago roughly as I am about to buy one myself.
 

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I wanted to maximize my available power so converted to Class D amps this year. I'm driving 8x18" subs, ported and sealed, 4 each. SP was not in the budget so I started looking for Crest amps. I was only able to find 1 used 7.5 DSP. It is branded as a Danley amp. I don't think DSL would have chosen this amp as their OE solution if it were unreliable. I also picked up a new Pro-Lite 5.0 DSP. A curious feature of these amps is the Maxx Bass feature:
The MaxxBass® enhancement system interacts with the high-pass filter for each channel to produce bass energy in a frequency range the loudspeaker can handle. The higher the
MaxxBass® number, the more the bass is enhanced.
, from the manual.
 

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So what did you go for wit box size? I thought it use to say 10 to 16cf on the Si web page but now says 8 to 12cf. .
my box is 48" by 28" by 21" external dimensions. With the bracing and all I guess it is about 13cuft. I wanted the largest box I can get away with.

I don't have good photos but this are 2 of the almost finished product. I still have to put a solid wood tabletop on the sub.
 

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A curious feature of these amps is the Maxx Bass feature:
The MaxxBass® enhancement system interacts with the high-pass filter for each channel to produce bass energy in a frequency range the loudspeaker can handle. The higher the
MaxxBass® number, the more the bass is enhanced.
, from the manual.
I have tried it and I can't tell whether I like it or not(partly because my system is not fully optimized). When I am able to measure my response I will try it again to see if there is any objective difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I was looking at the rack amps from SP and i was wondering is there any reason to get the ht version if i am looking at getting a mini dsp? Seems redundant, but there is a lot i dont know. Not sure i need that much power but the flexibility would be nice and eventually having 2 plate amps doesn't seem as appealing for some reason even though it would be cheaper.
 
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