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Discussion Starter #81
I would say the Kreg jig is one of my favorite tools. You can build anything with it. You get a strong joint and the faster is on the back or inside so it can't be seen. Combine that with some glue and you then can move on much faster to clamp the next spot and screw it down and repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Good point there. It is not a problem for this build as i have no intention of doing much to make it pretty as it will be hidden completely out of sight. I will have to keep it in mind when i do more some day if it is going to be visible. This box is made to fit below my av rack and will be covered by a grill cloth cover.
 

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Thanks for sharing this with us. keep the pictures coming.
 

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my box is 48" by 28" by 21" external dimensions. With the bracing and all I guess it is about 13cuft. I wanted the largest box I can get away with.

I don't have good photos but this are 2 of the almost finished product. I still have to put a solid wood tabletop on the sub.
Love this... Nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I got a few pictures from Nick today and my driver's are finally coming together. I cant wait to get them. I am pretty sure they are going to be bigger than i have been imagining. Now i need to find a little more time to work on the box. I am getting 2 of the 4 shown but will only be running one at first.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Well i finally got my subs. It was almost 4 months to the day. I had to open one of the right away as fed ex had beat up one of the boxes pretty good and i could hear parts rolling around. So that scared me pretty bad. Luckily it appears that it is just fine. I don't have a amp yet so i. Cant check that but Nick said if the frame is not cracked there is a 99% chance it s just fine. I looked it over and see no signs of damage so we shall hope it is fine. I will need to get a amp soon so i can test them. I knew that these subs were big. But i was not prepared for just how huge they are. I just started laughing when i opened the crate. Now that i see these i can't even imagine using a 32" sub. In the box i almost thought it looked fake. Then there is the weight. It was all i could do to lift it out of the box to get it up to examine it. I cant wait to see how it sounds once the box is fully done.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Well i finally got my box more or less finished. I still need to do a few things like some wat to connect wires to the box and stuff with poly fill but it is now complete other than that.

My wife made me a little nervous abot weather or not i measured correctly when i started this build. As she looked at the box and said where the Hell do you plan on putting that! IT'S HUGE!!! I got a little nervous and said dont worry it will be out of sight under the equipment rack. I am pretty sure she didn't believe me. So the next day when she was at work i mustered all my strength and picked up the box and drug it inside. My guess is it is in the neighborhood of 160 to 170# once inside i slid it down the stairs and shoved it in to place. It fits perfectly. I am actually not sure she has noticed it sitting there yet so not to bad of a hiding spot for a 12cf box.

I glued some 1/4-20 strut nuts to the inside of the box to fasten the driver so i hope it works how i planned we shall see. And recommendations for what kind of connection i should use for the speaker wires? I can't wait to see how this sounds. Now i need to get off my butt and order one
 

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Hard to go wrong with a Neutrik SpeakOn. Parts Express has about the best pricing on genuine Neutrik connectors. There are 90 degree connectors for lower profile connections.
 
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Discussion Starter #92
Hard to go wrong with a Neutrik SpeakOn. Parts Express has about the best pricing on genuine Neutrik connectors. There are 90 degree connectors for lower profile connections.

That is kind of what i was thinking of doing. Is there a certain kind of wire people recommend for making the cables from amp to box with the connectors. I do like the idea of 90 degree connections. That way it stays out of the way.
 

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That is kind of what i was thinking of doing. Is there a certain kind of wire people recommend for making the cables from amp to box with the connectors. I do like the idea of 90 degree connections. That way it stays out of the way.

SJOOW rubber jacketed extension cord, available from many places: Lowes, Home Depot, Parts Express, etc.



Depending on length of run, I'd likely pick up 12/2.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Ok sounds good. We may have some of that laying around here at work some place otherwise i am sure i can get it at home depot. It will only be like 10' of cable so #12 should be just fine i would think.

It is a little late now but does it look like i put enough bracing in to the box? I believe they are roughly every 8" or so and about 3.5"tall screwed and glued. Also i have a bunch of polyfill to stuff the box do i need to cover ot to keep it away from the driver? I never did that when i did car audio, but i also never had 1000$ drivers then either. I just don't want to screw anything up.
 

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I'd probably tie the other two walls together, like this if it is possible, and clears the basket and magnet:





I can't see getting polyfill sucked into the motor, perhaps if you were using fiberglass insulation it may be prudent to cover it.
 

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I will have to take a look and see if that is possible. It would have to be done in several pieces as i could not get that long of a stick in, also i am down t about 15" mounting depth in that area so abot 1.5" to interface with the motor assembly. I will check it out though and see if i can come up with something. Thanks for the idea.
 

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I will have to take a look and see if that is possible. It would have to be done in several pieces as i could not get that long of a stick in, also i am down t about 15" mounting depth in that area so abot 1.5" to interface with the motor assembly. I will check it out though and see if i can come up with something. Thanks for the idea.
This is how I braced the second 24 I built, we did a similar window brace deal to the sides of the driver, the depth is an issue so I did angle braces around the driver. This cab is total 18" deep for reference, double baffle. The angle braces transfer the load to the other sides and the result is very inert. Notice the angle braces transfer the load to the side window brace that goes over to the left side of the cabinet. You want everything connected side to side and top to bottom as michael hurd mentioned.



 

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^ Even better than my suggestion.^
 

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Discussion Starter #100
This is how I braced the second 24 I built, we did a similar window brace deal to the sides of the driver, the depth is an issue so I did angle braces around the driver. This cab is total 18" deep for reference, double baffle. The angle braces transfer the load to the other sides and the result is very inert. Notice the angle braces transfer the load to the side window brace that goes over to the left side of the cabinet. You want everything connected side to side and top to bottom as michael hurd mentioned.



I like this idea. It is simple and elegant. I will have to work out something very similar. It is usually the simplest option is the best. This is a very simple plan but I can see it being very effective. You are right these 24 are so deep it is crazy. My box is also 18" deep inside with a double baffle in front.

On a similar note but different i want to know if this was just a basket and cone in this picture or what. I am no wimp but it is almost all i can muster to lift the sub. I picked it up and carried it inside from the garage and downstairs and was spent by the time i got it there. There is no way i can see to pose like that with one of these subs.
 

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