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I'm sorta new at this panamorph business and was wondering if any HS20 owners had a panamorph lens attached. What will be the biggest benifit? I know it will increase brightness about 20% but what else will I gain with it? I'm watching various different aspect ratios, so does it work with, say, 1.85:1 movies? What will it actually do with 2.35:1 movies? Too many questions....any feedback would be great!
 

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Don't use a Panamorph lens unless you have a constant width screen since it compresses the image rather than stretching it out wider like an ISCO II or Prismasonic H-500 lens.


With the latter two lenses, besides a brighter picture because the entire panel is being used, you get a wider image with no black bars (while retaining the OAR). Great for 2.35:1 ratio screens. You then slide the lens out of the light path for 1.33:1 and 1.78:1/1.85:1 ratio movies and the image is appropriately less wide, but approx. the same height.


The whole idea of lenses like the Prismasonic and ISCO II comes from wanting to recreate a commercial movie screen where scope movies are bigger than narrower ones in the home.


In order to use the lenses with 2.35:1 material takes proper scaling where the top and bottom bars are cropped off and the remaining image is squeezed into the 1.78:1 frame with no loss of picture information. You would also need to manipulate the image further with subtitles that fall into the lower black bar. I'm still learning about this myself, so I'm not sure what appropriate scaling software would be needed for DVD and HDTV sources through a home theater PC.
 

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Yes it seems to me that while Panamorph is the most well known consumer brand, they have a product that requires more work than say the Prismasonic. However there has been very little in terms of comparison of image quality etc. that would leave me wary of purchasing the Prismasonic. The Panamorph however just doesn't seem all that adjustable. If I want to go back and forth between screen formats 2.35:1 -> 16:9 I would then need to adjust the projector height and zoom or utilize reduced resolution on 16:9 material and squeeze/stretch it through the Panamorph. Constant Height is a major plus and I wonder why Panamorph doesn't offer separate stretch and squeeze models like Prismasonic. Maybe I'm wrong since I don't have an anamorphic lens yet.
 

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I was considering trying my old Panamorph with the HS20 if I ever get one to replace my 4:3 LCD panel projector I now have. I imagine it will reduce some of the screen door, at least make it "skinnier" horizontally, when watching 2.35:1 material. Though If I did see any advantage, I would probably then go for one of the newer models as long as they didn't produce all the distortion in the image I now have.


Note, you will need to purchase the rail so you can slide it away for 16:9 or 4:3 material on a 16:9 screen. With a 4:3 panel projector, you can leave it in place always and just scale everything to fill the full panel vertically. With a 16:9 panel, you still must make sure you have a scaler of some sorts (TheaterTek, ZP or whatever, to do this). I don't see any reason to zoom the projector when the Panny is moved in or out, but you might want to move the image up or down depending on where you want the black bars to land on the screen (in 2.35:1 mode). I just leave it in the center and cover them with two felt masks to remove them entirely.


I don't see any increase in light level with my older Panamorph model, since the oil interface and glass losses make up for the increased irradiance, but maybe the new ones are different somehow (better optics and choice of oil?). They used to claim 20% with the old ones too, but that was soon proved false.


Right now I'm using the Panamorph in conjunction with a Cygnus depixelator (older model too), so I see virtually no screen door at 10 ft from a 110" Diag 16:9 screen. So why do I want a HS20? A bit more resolution, increased brightness and contrast, with DVI capability. And hopefully I can simply defocus slightly and do away with the Panamorph distortion and focus uniformity problems that I've had to live with for now.
 

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Carey, how is your eyesight? Do you think you can pick out screendoor more than the average person?


I am curious because I am considering the same setup: HS20 projeted onto 110" diag 16:9 screen (96" wide), with the first and primary row having a screen to eye distance of about 10' and the second row 14' 6".


I have 20/70 and 20/50 eyesight, and my wife is 20/50 in both eyes. I'm hoping that defocusing won't even be necessary, but if so I'm hoping that a tiny bit will do. I don't want people with good eyesight complaining about the fuzzy image. :)


- Rhino
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by dusk
Yes it seems to me that while Panamorph is the most well known consumer brand, they have a product that requires more work than say the Prismasonic. However there has been very little in terms of comparison of image quality etc. that would leave me wary of purchasing the Prismasonic. The Panamorph however just doesn't seem all that adjustable. If I want to go back and forth between screen formats 2.35:1 -> 16:9 I would then need to adjust the projector height and zoom or utilize reduced resolution on 16:9 material and squeeze/stretch it through the Panamorph. Constant Height is a major plus and I wonder why Panamorph doesn't offer separate stretch and squeeze models like Prismasonic. Maybe I'm wrong since I don't have an anamorphic lens yet.
It's not that much work. You just slide it out of the way, and have a profile in your DVD player/scaler/whatever for Panamorph and one for 16x9 content. Lens zooming isn't required unless you are trying to do it without some sort of scaler involved.


-MP
 

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What I'm planning on doing is grabbing a 2.35:1 Screen when I finish my HT. If I had a 16:9 screen already I wouldn't hesitate on the Panamorph. The H-500 sounds like what I need though. I would also need a mask of some sort for the 16:9 material and 4:3. Maybe an x10 curtain pulley or just felt to start.
 

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Rhino,


My eyesight is quite good for distance, except for some astigmatism which I where glasses for. With glasses everything is crystal clear, and I always where them for watching movies, so my true eyesight is a moot point really.

As far as defocusing goes, if done correctly, I wouldn't think it would be worse than having all those optics in front of the lens as I now have. It's surprising how "in focus" I can make things look without the harshness of a pixel grid to falsely sharpen the image.


I have a feeling that 10ft just won't cut it for the HS20 without some defocusing, and even then (without a depixelating lens or panamorph) I probably wouldn't push closer than 12ft. I'm only estimating based on all the posts I've read so far. Since I'm spoiled now, I wouldn't want anything less than the smooth filmlike image the Panamorph gives.


Carey
 
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