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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You all may remember how my HT room has a register but not a fresh air intake...and how I discussed how to keep the room at a decent temperature especially given the extra heat our new projector throws off. Well, I could just crack the door, the window, etc...but I still wanted to do something...so here's what I've come up with:


First I'm gong to punch a hole in the wall that adjoins the family room in the basement.


I'll attach one of these http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/...s/161627_2.jpg to the outside wall. The rectangle opening will face the theater room.


Then I'll connect some flexiduct http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/...s/161632_2.jpg to the fitting attached the the wall.


After about 2-3 feet or so I'll install this inline duct booster http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/...s/161326_2.jpg that will draw the air from the theater room, which I will then vent into the family room.


I'll then cover both openings with one of these http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/...s/253034_2.jpg painted to match the wall color.


To power the inline duct booster, I just have to run normal 120 to it which I can branch off from our existing wiring in the ceiling.


To turn on/off the duct fan I'll install one of these http://www.smarthome.com/images/2250_xyz2.gif that I'll be able to control with my X10 gear! :D It's an inline relay that allows you to turn things on and off without a hard wired switch!


So basically I'll be able to hit a button on my remote that will turn on the fan, pulling any hot and stale air out of the room!


All of this will be built in a soffit on the family room wall, mirroring the other soffit on the adjacent wall that already houses duct work...so it will be nice and balanced! 8)


I'll of course be documenting every installation/construction step on my website, but I'm just happy to have finally found a solution other than cracking the door!


E
 

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I just did exactly the same thing with a few modifications. I'm bringing fresh air in from an adjacent room with 6" flex/inline fan. Warm air is being exhausted to a different room with 8"flex/inline fan. My fans are on a switch located at the entrance in a 2 gang box next to my Lutron accessory controller.


So far I'm quite pleased with the circulation. I'm sure the fans will be inaudible once my insulation and sheetrock are installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Glad to hear it works for you...In don't need air intake since I have a register in the ceiling...but needed the return. I'm going to line by soffit with soundboard...which should make the fan inaudible for sure! :D


I was wondering if an 8" would work better/pull more air...what's your experience with the 6" vs. 8" fans? Thanks!


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Quote:
Originally posted by efarstad
Glad to hear it works for you...In don't need air intake since I have a register in the ceiling...but needed the return. I'm going to line by soffit with soundboard...which should make the fan inaudible for sure! :D


I was wondering if an 8" would work better/pull more air...what's your experience with the 6" vs. 8" fans? Thanks!


E
I also have a register in my HT but I wanted a good supply of fresh air even when my heater/AC is not running. The 8" fan and 8" flex duct definitely move more air than the 6" (Smarthome states the 8" moves 50 CFM more than the 6"). It is also a little louder but it is located farther from my HT than the 6" fan. I'm really pleased with this combo.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Frank D
Where will you be buying that inline relay? Have a web link? I was thinking of a similiar idea.
This is where I got both of my fans:

http://www.smarthome.com/3011.html
 

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Just one more thing to add to the subject.

See if you can locate a fan that has a built in reostat to speed up/slow down the fan so as to make sure you have the right amount of air flow.


You want to have your room balanced or you will begin pulling in air from every possible little crack and end up warming up your room instead of cooling. Just a little advice from a guy in that field. :D
 

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on any newer (straight -wired) accessorie there should always be three wires per UL listings.


Red - Hot or 115volt

White- neutral or return electrical path

Green - ground or lawyer resistor


Hope that helps. :D
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Juno
Just one more thing to add to the subject.

See if you can locate a fan that has a built in reostat to speed up/slow down the fan so as to make sure you have the right amount of air flow.


You want to have your room balanced or you will begin pulling in air from every possible little crack and end up warming up your room instead of cooling. Just a little advice from a guy in that field. :D
My room should be airtight (every possible leak will get generous amounts of acoustical caulk and the 2 doors will have weatherstripping) so I'm hoping that any additional air will be pulled from my 6" flex duct. If this does cause a problem I'll swap out the 8" fan for a 6" - that should balance things out.
 

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Sound like you've got in under control.


Good luck. =0)
 

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Juno, thanks for your input. Is there any problem with pulling air from the service register when the furnace/AC fan is not on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The inline relay can be found at Smarthome.com...and duct fans are cheapest through HomeDepot.com not Smarthome...just and FYI....


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mskreis,

No the only drawback with pulling air in when the unit is not on, is that because the air being pulled in is not being cooled, you will warm up that space more quickly. What you can do instead is just keep the AC t-stat to the Fan "On" position while you're in there, so that the whole house warms up at a more even rate and you don't get only the room you're in warming up quicker than the rest. You then end up getting hot while you're waiting for the area by the t-stat to get warm enough to turn the AC unit back on.


Hope that helps. =0)
 

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Oh and efar's right.

You should be able to find those fans at Home Depot or Lowes.
 

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I did almost exactly this, except that I had a return - I wanted some supply from outside so when it's cold outside and warm in the room I can inject some cool air into the room. Mine is different than efarstad's in that mine is blowing in to the room and efarstad's is sucking out of the room.


Observations:


A dimming X-10 inline control doesn't work with this fan. I ended up just putting mine on a regular wall ($1) switch.


It doesn't move a ton of air. This could be dynamics of my room and placement, but in general the movement of air from this system isn't nearly as high as a vent on my central system. Don't expect huge performance.


It is slightly noisy - even though it's got 2 layers of drywall and 6" of insulation between me and the fan. Not bad, but it's audible.


- Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for your insight Pete....on the inline relay...you can't use the dimming type but there is a non-dimming inline that will work with a fan/light or anything you plan on NOT dimming.


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I was planning on doing the same thing with a slight alteration.


I have the 6" flex duct connected to the inline fan to pull air out of the room. I am going to install additional flex duct over the side of the outer walls into the space between the wall and the poured concrete to pull the cool air into the room. I wasn't planning on using a duct fan for this as I assumed that the laws of displacement would apply here. Is there any reason why this wouldn't work?
 

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I did something similar, but used a 2-speed fan as suggested by someone else on here. I got it from here .

http://www.espenergy.com/2_speed_professional.htm


They were quick shipping and a good price. They also sell pretty cool looking duct mufflers (look here ). I may add one of these if it's too loud.


I have it pulling air from a larger room, and then splitting to feed two registers on the left and right walls near the front of the theater. Both registers are about 4" above the floor. My very large return will be in the ceiling at the back of the room, not far from the projector. Should give good air flow from low in the front to high in the back.


I liked the two speed option so that I would have two options to try once the room is in use (the drywallers are banging away down there as I write this). However, some type of rheostat would be the ultimate.


Good Luck -
 
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