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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone here use a HT UPS, and if so, what brand and model is recommended ? I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for it, but I don't want to be cheap either.
 

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Why do you need a UPS and what is the total power draw for your HT? How long do you need to run off the battery?


I use 2 small UPSs: 1 for my DishDVR and 1 for my HTPC. This ensures a clean shut down of both components during a power outage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Our building power goes out at the drop of a hat, and I don't want to ruin my equipment. How can I calculate the total power draw ? The system I have is this; Paradigm speakers; Studio 60's, Studio CC, ADP-170's, Atoms, a Def Tech Supercube 1 sub, and a Pioneer TV.
 

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AMPS is Watts divided by volts. So look on your gear find its wattage, some gear already lists the amps. Then do the math if everuthing comes up to say 10 amps get a 15 amp device because the UPS batt will draw some power also. The specs will show this. If you have 15 amps get a 20 amp, but really you also need a 20 amp circuit to plug into so make sure of that also or if its lower then 15. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Just be careful, a computer UPS is not designed for audio/video components, and may not work, or even damage some components.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gates
Our building power goes out at the drop of a hat, and I don't want to ruin my equipment. How can I calculate the total power draw ? The system I have is this; Paradigm speakers; Studio 60's, Studio CC, ADP-170's, Atoms, a Def Tech Supercube 1 sub, and a Pioneer TV.
No amp or receiver?


Kal
 

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The Minuteman MCP-E is a low cost UPS that features true sine-wave output. I dont have one yet though mainly because I'm having trouble finding a company that stocks them that will ship to Canada!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by speco2003
AMPS is Watts divided by volts. So look on your gear find its wattage, some gear already lists the amps. Then do the math if everuthing comes up to say 10 amps get a 15 amp device because the UPS batt will draw some power also. The specs will show this. If you have 15 amps get a 20 amp, but really you also need a 20 amp circuit to plug into so make sure of that also or if its lower then 15. Hope that makes sense.
My power amplifiers are placarded for 5880W (not a typo) or 49A.


They work fine on a 15A circuit. With 675W of can lights.


The power rating can be a maximum or an average. Running test tones at the rated output into my speakers I'll never get over 3155W or 26A. The amps idle at 344W or 3A. At 50% efficiency and better than 90dB/1W/1 meter speaker efficiency that's enough for 112dB average. Ow.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt
My power amplifiers are placarded for 5880W (not a typo) or 49A.


They work fine on a 15A circuit. With 675W of can lights.


The power rating can be a maximum or an average. Running test tones at the rated output into my speakers I'll never get over 3155W or 26A. The amps idle at 344W or 3A. At 50% efficiency and better than 90dB/1W/1 meter speaker efficiency that's enough for 112dB average. Ow.


Well I guess I am wrong then. I understand u would probably never go that hot but with other things are you not over the rate of the circuit?


What amps are you using? Crowns, QSC, etc....?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by speco2003
Well I guess I am wrong then. I understand u would probably never go that hot but with other things are you not over the rate of the circuit?
As long as my ears aren't bleeding it's no where close.

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What amps are you using? Crowns, QSC, etc....?
2 Adcom 555ii stereo amps for the center+sub, and left+right main bass (my main speakers are actively tri-amplified). 4 Adcom 545ii amps for left+right main mid, left+right main high, left+right side surround, and left+right rear surround.


Total weight 166 pounds.


Don't worry about the power used by your amplifiers.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gates
Does anyone here use a HT UPS, and if so, what brand and model is recommended ? I don't want to pay an arm and a leg for it, but I don't want to be cheap either.
I use an APC BackUPS XS 1000 on my HT. It is a 1000 VA model available for $150 at CostCo in Ottawa. It runs my whole HT and should provide full power for 15 minutes (plenty of time to start the generator). I have checked and don't see or hear any significant difference between running on A/C or on the UPS.


The power consupmtion of a system is significantly lower than the rated power. You should measure it if possible. As a guidline, my system has a Denon AVR-3300 receiver, Toshiba TW40X81 RPTV, Toshiba SD-9200 DVD player, Bell ExpressVu 9200 PVR (same as Dish 942), Cerwin-Vega 12" subwoofer, and a bunch of low power stuff, and the measured power doesn't exceed 300 watts even at ear bleeding volumes.


Mike
 

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The APC SmartUPS units are true sine-wave outputs which might matter to you if you have a RP TV. I was concerned with protecting the bulb in my RP-LCD from power outages and from the UPS itself. So I went with the APC SmartUPS 700 (or is it 750) V and it handles the TV (~210Watts with speakers on full which I dont even use), STB SA8000HD DVR (~?? watts), DVD player (~?? watts). This load of 3 devices is ~ 2/3 of the max load it can handle (indicator lights on UPS).


I don't have my receiver on a UPS, just a Panamax HT surge protector / line conditioner.
 

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I second the opinions of people suggesing APC gear.


APC is the industry standard brand when you have to deal with surges or when you need power regulation or backup.


They've just released the APC AV model which seems to be a good solution for you. Take a look at the APC site.


Forget Monster crap, BTW ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry Kal, I forgot that part. I have a Pioneer 54tx receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Michael, I live near Ottawa so I'll check Costco out.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt
As long as my ears aren't bleeding it's no where close.




2 Adcom 555ii stereo amps for the center+sub, and left+right main bass (my main speakers are actively tri-amplified). 4 Adcom 545ii amps for left+right main mid, left+right main high, left+right side surround, and left+right rear surround.


Total weight 166 pounds.


Don't worry about the power used by your amplifiers.
I dont want to start a knife fight here, so help me understand. Maybe HT audio is just this different but, on our road gear we use QSC powerlight 6.0 for some systems. So we run 2 amps on a 20 amp circuit of a 3 phase 400 amp system. And many times we feel that is pushing it.In our theatre install here in Vegas its much closer to one 20 amp circuit for each amp in many cases.
 

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So long as all the components in the circuit are rated to the breaker level (and in my house I found out that is not true - 15A outlets on 20A breakers), the 20A breaker will trip if he pulls >20A for a period of time. I guess so long as the breaker isn't tripping he's okay, but it would make me uncomfortable to have a 49A rating on a 20A circuit. It removes the first line of protection, which is never to overload a circuit in the first place.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF
but it would make me uncomfortable to have a 49A rating on a 20A circuit. It removes the first line of protection, which is never to overload a circuit in the first place.
http://www.adcom.com/pdfs/gfa545iimanual.pdf


A single 545 is only around a 100 watt amp. Even if it draws a 600 watts as per the back panel on page 4 thats still only 5 amps. At 6 of these Amplifiers he only draws 30 amps if they ran to max power.
 

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Is UPS really necessary? I mean, if you have surge suppression, wouldn't losing power be the same as turning off the device? So if you had a computer and might lose data, that would be bad, but doesn't seem like much of an issue with a TV or receiver. Whattaya think?


I suppose if your building power is going out on a weekly basis for no more than a couple minutes, that would make sense - is that the case?
 

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cme,


It was my concern for the expensive bulb in my RP-LCD tv that made me get a true sine-wave UPS. If the power just is cut dead, there is no cool down cycle (~45sec) for the fans to stay on with the bulb off and cooling down. I did'nt like the idea of losing the bulb early and the cost of a bulb is about equal to the UPS. ...
 
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