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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm putting together a media room in the basement. The goal is moderate sound control. Due to budget, the best I can do is a single layer insulated drywalled ceiling, resilient channel, and staggered stud interior walls. My big question is what to do with my hvac.


I have to do a soffit along the one side, and I figured I'd probably extend around another 2 sides to make thing symetrical.


I also wanted to know how much hard duct line I should replace with flex duct.



layout



current hvac




proposed hvac
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevehn /forum/post/19576108


Due to budget, the best I can do is a single layer insulated drywalled ceiling,

With drywall Running $8-10 per sheet you can probably stand at a busy street corner with a sign that reads "desperate for a second layer of drywall in my Home Theater" and get enough contributions to cover the added material cost.


On those two ducts that you show leading to the upstairs you need to be aware that flex ducts have more resistance which means less air to wherever they go. If you do a good job with your ceiling and insulate around the metal ducts you can probably keep them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/19576316


With drywall Running $8-10 per sheet you can probably stand at a busy street corner with a sign that reads "desperate for a second layer of drywall in my Home Theater" and get enough contributions to cover the added material cost.


I'll start working on my sign.
The sheet goods aren't too bad, but last time I checked green glue is a bit pricey. I'm planning to move in about 5 years, so I'm saving the all out build for theater 2.0.


If I can leave the upstairs ducts, I will. I'll do my best to pack them with insulation. My biggest fear is that I'll finally finish the theater area, and still can't turn up the stereo.


Is there anything else I should be doing?
 

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adding an extra layer of drywall will help even without the GG.


On the metal ducts up in the ceiling if you can add some dampening mass to the exterior it will reduce the sound it picks up via vibration. The commercial product to use would be something like Dynamat Extreme. A cheaper alternative is peel and stick roof flashing. The ultimate cheapest route would be to duct tape some tar paper to the exterior. You get the idea.
 

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Quote:
Due to budget, the best I can do is a single layer insulated drywalled ceiling, resilient channel, and staggered stud interior walls.
What's the purpose of resilient channel ... first it isn't very effective and it certainly isn't required on stagger framed walls.

Quote:
My biggest fear is that I'll finally finish the theater area, and still can't turn up the stereo.
That would be a fear...considering you'll live with the "mistake" for five years.
 
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