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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the situation: I ordered a Panny 6UY from Dell and received it promptly on 9/2. But there was no stand! :mad: I checked with Dell and found out that the stand was back ordered until 9/17. I kept checking back and began to doubt Dell and called Electrograph which is where they get most of their plasma and accessories. I spoke to Bonnie (She's great for helping with tracking your order (800) 400-4310) and she confirmed that the stand, TYST05-K is seriously back ordered. In fact she didn't even know if 9/17 was a realistic shipping date. Normally, she said Electrograph hears from Panasonic when a shipment is in route and they have heard nothing yet. She indicated that many others are in my position.


So this is becoming too hard to bear. :(


Does anyone have any suggestions for a temporary desktop stand? Canceling the order and placing it elsewhere is not really an option. I do want to start using it but don't want to prop it up precariously and end up breaking it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, HX, but I won't be welding. The stand I'm waiting for is a desktop stand.
 

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Would making it out of lumber be out of the question? I remember seeing a post by a forum member that made a temporary stand made from 2x4s (at least that was what it looked like to me).


I'd imagine the user's guide would specify the bolts you would need.


Good luck,

John Flegert
 

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I had a customer in the same predicament, we decided to weld 2- t shaped pieces of 3/4" steel tube, painted it and put some end plugs in for a temporary stand, customer liked it better than the overpriced piece of crap that zenith had on persistent backorder....total cost about $15



erie
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Does anyone know the dimensions of the steel posts on the panny stand for the 6UY? Are they square, rectangular, round . . . ?
 

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I posted a long time ago about making a temporary stand. The search function is down at the moments, but the thread title was something like " Better than Styrofoam"...


I used about 9" long 3/4" diameter all-thread, with t-nut and locking nut into a couple stacked 2 x 6 planks about 12"-15" long (front to back). The Panny mounting holes are tapered from about 3/4" up to 1/2" (approx). So you will need to file/grind whatever the posts ends.


What I ended up with was actually two feet, and then just set the PDP on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Erie, where would I find such steel tubing? Hardware store, plumbing supply etc. Any particular name for them?


Brucer, thanks for digging up the thread. I may have a weekend project here.
 

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I'm 40 minutes south of the NH border and I'm not using my Akai table top stands (2 legs). If you can confirm that they'll fit, you're more then welcome to borrow them, providing you return them when you're done.
 

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I would just go ahead and buy a 100$ flat wall mount. Order it today and get it by next Wednesday. In the meantime, just prop it up against the wall or a cabinet. Much simpler, IMO. Just one more week or so of makeshiftness....
 

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The factory tapered pegs are cast aluminum (at least they were on previous generations), not ideal to weld. If pegs are mounted on a solid one piece surface, the spacing between is critical, that's why I made the original temps independent.


Great looking setup. I like the idea of placing center channel speaker under screen.

Not sure by pic, but did you tapper pins? How are they mounted to cabinet? Are the two small holes for securings to plasma?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Brucer
The factory tapered pegs are cast aluminum (at least they were on previous generations), not ideal to weld. If pegs are mounted on a solid one piece surface, the spacing between is critical, that's why I made the original temps independent.


For the more ambitious check out the "Schex Solution":

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...883&fullpage=1


Here's a picture with a factory peg included:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...876&fullpage=1
Brucer:


I would be interested in buying a pair of these from you, if you could make them for me...PM me with a price, if you can/want to....I have a 5 series 42" Panasonic. I need to measure my center channel before I can give you height specs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
90c4, Thanks for the offer. :) Truely remarkable how generous people are around here. I'll give it a go myself this weekend, but you never know, maybe I'll take you up on that offer. I live in Amherst, NH between manchester and Nashua. I also have family in Massachusetts that live in Waltham and Arlington and on the Cape.


Also thanks everyone for your suggestions


John
 

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Brucer,


On those stands that you made, do you have any measurements on the taper for the pegs. I am wondering since I would like to just machine the pegs but I do not have access to one for measurement purposes.


Thanks,

Reldridg
 

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The pictured above mounts were made from solid aluminum (tapered pegs) with steel columns (Schex was planning on painting them, originally).


Back when Schex's were made - I checked into getting a CNC machine shop to produce a limited quantity of the tapered pegs (more cost effective). At that time, I only had a couple additional interested parties, when I needed a minimum run of about '5' pairs. And even the inquiries that I had were vastly different in design, as far as the column configuration. One design allowed for a much larger and wider center channel.


If more people are interested I can check back into this again. I know Schex checked with a local machinist in his area, who quoted 'substantially more' (2-3 times) the price, YMMV.


The columns featured above had tapped and threaded holes in the bottom of the columns, since this design was going to be bolted down to the shelf, itself. It would also lend itself to having a base plate attached, instead.


The tapered pegs had the matching pair(s) of tapped and threaded holes to secure the PDP, as well.


Editted:


Reldridg-


PS. Last question posted at the same time, I posted. I will have to find my notes, there is not much room for error for lining up the two holes for securing the PDP. The securing holes need to be drilled and tapped 'Before' the taper is turned. IOW, they are perpendicular to the vertical axis (not perpendicular to the taper).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK, a couple more questions before I try this out over the weekend.


First, why not use 1/2" or 5/8" threaded steel rod instead of 3/4". Wouldn't this eliminate the tapering step? I'm hesitant to simply slide in 3/4" because it sounds like it will dig into the slot at some point when the opening starts to taper from 3/4" to 1/2". I wouldn't think that the fit would have to be extremely tight or even that I's want it to be since this is a temporary fix.


Thanks, again


John
 
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