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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
..and i need the schematic for the ECP series input boards. Specifically..the standard design. In this case, it's the 50-1889-04 dual BNC'd input baord. Anyone got a cup 'o board schematic to spare? I want to do this right...instead of my usual 'feel my way through it' kind of job.


thanks for the help!
 

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You got it Ken. Shoot me a PM with an address and I'll send it to you. I have paper only...nothing electronic or I'd email it. Let me know.
 

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Don't forget G90 RGBHV input boards!
 

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OH MY GOD. I don't believe what I'm reading. This can't be Ken. It must be his evil twin. Well at least now the picture fits. Sorry Ken, I couldn't resist.


Chip S.
 

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Hee Hee I got him hooked.
That's Ok, he it turn got me hooked!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by mark haflich
Hee Hee I got him hooked.
And now..the changes to your control board for the Marquee 9500 give it the equvalance of being able to pass [email protected] (total overall capacity)


That should keep spurious noise out. It's a bloody black hole to electrical noise.


The input board is done in a similar fashion. except, now..the input board changes cause the contrast setting you used to run at...to be 8 clicks too high. It's that much more dynamic. The thing will have to be re-calbrated. The capacitors used for the input don't really have much in the way of LCR characteristics..they have 'textbook' response..and respond pretty well flat out to about 10mhz..with only 'eddy current' response characteristics. It's more like the lead wires going in-and out of the capacitor are the problem. I am not aware of any capacitor that performs better than they do. Well, there are some that do..but they are bulk film..high voltage caps..and they are so big only about 20-30 (small bricks)would fit in the entire chassis (volumetrically),and would have a total capacitance of about 2-3uf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I believe that board for Marquees PJ's...DOES exist.
 

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Yes,

Go to Reference Imaging website.Chris Stephens has it.:)
 

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Ken, start cloning yourself. You now have enough work for a zillion years. LEt's hope everyone's CRT tubes last that long.


(If "The Fly" movie is rented out at every video store in Kingston, it's just Ken getting technical tips on cloning machines...)


Curt
 

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Curt,


My apologies to all for getting off track. No email addy for Curt seems available.


I may be in need of a registration board for an Ampro 4200G. Ray C. said that you may have one? Please email me if possible [email protected]


We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread!


Curtis
 

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Why are you not making yourself a new chassis. Like doubling the height or something. So you could fit in those high voltages components you would really want to have.


I saw the modded 808 a while ago here in the CRT forum with 9" CRT.


Go get your chainsaw. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I HAD the input (VIM) and the 'control' board. HDM being 'Horizontal Deflection Module', if I recall correctly. They are on their way back.
 

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Got the VIM and the control module back today. Man that guy Ken does quality work. Over 50 caps replaced on the VIM and on the multi level control board well over 100, probably 175 or so. Can't see the lower level. Quality caps too. Looks like it was built at the factory, but this time with the best caps available. Will plug them in but no screen. Sold it when I got the new 4 way masked Stewert. That goes in the new HT room under construction. Won't fit in the old room. Then I gotta mount the projector to a steel beam in the new room after the electrical wiring to MP (Mike Parker) specs is done.


Man. Those boards look neat.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by mark haflich
Then I gotta mount the projector to a steel beam in the new room......
Mark, you will need a degaussing coil the size of a Toyota to deal with that steel beam.


Ken; so far at least none of your mods have involved nitrous oxide yet, that I know of...... ? :D
 

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Got it covered. First paint the beam with goo systems, next a small (2 x 3 ft) mu metal shield, and a very small edy current generator to power up the sacrifice anode to stop the beam from rusting, then . . . .


Of course I could move the house and leave the beam. New high tech great room floor trusses would work and then I could remove the beam. Of course I just put a new cross beam up to remove the pole holding up the beam, said pole lying being the screen and the projector. Getting rid of banding is easier.
 
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