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Discussion Starter #1
You guys try all of the new subs so I wanted to get your thoughts. I've had 2 Dayton RSS40HO for almost 10 years and haven't really kept up with the new stuff.

The current subs are in 4 cuft sealed cabinets and each running bridged on their own Crown XLS1502. I've run them pretty hard their whole life and been satisfied with both HT and music close to clipping for extended periods. However if I should swap them both, I'm open to it. I want to stay in the $300/each price range. I'm also not in the mood to build all new cabinets right now.

Choices I see
-Buy another RSS460. That's the cheapest option and no complaints with them.
-Buy 2 UM18. Less sensitivity, and have to possibly massage the baffle for them to fit.
-Some of the new Lavoce neodymium 18s. Better sensitivity but less xmax. Also 8ohm so can't bridge the 1502 to as much power.
-Some other driver I haven't considered.

I can model them after work but just wanted to get some input while I'm still working.
 

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You guys try all of the new subs so I wanted to get your thoughts. I've had 2 Dayton RSS40HO for almost 10 years and haven't really kept up with the new stuff.

The current subs are in 4 cuft sealed cabinets and each running bridged on their own Crown XLS1502. I've run them pretty hard their whole life and been satisfied with both HT and music close to clipping for extended periods. However if I should swap them both, I'm open to it. I want to stay in the $300/each price range. I'm also not in the mood to build all new cabinets right now.

Choices I see
-Buy another RSS460. That's the cheapest option and no complaints with them.
-Buy 2 UM18. Less sensitivity, and have to possibly massage the baffle for them to fit.
-Some of the new Lavoce neodymium 18s. Better sensitivity but less xmax. Also 8ohm so can't bridge the 1502 to as much power.
-Some other driver I haven't considered.

I can model them after work but just wanted to get some input while I'm still working.

If you’re happy with their performance and want the easiest route, then simply swap them out with the latest RSS-HO.

But I think for a mix of music and movies, trying the LaVoce San184.03 in those cabs would be a worthy upgrade in sound quality, if that’s something you wish to sample ($339 at Parts Express). Although they’re 8ohm, your Crowns should get you to a bit over 2/3 their max potential, so sure they’ll be a few hundred watts left on the table (1,500w/RMS), but I bet the higher sensitivity will help offset this some, especially above 30-40Hz anyway.

That’s great you got a decade out of the Daytons! I’ve built a few marty style subs with HO drivers in the 15-18” sizes and they took a beating with a lot of EQ. I know they work well in smaller sealed cabs as well as ported alignments, likely better than most of these PA subs in sealed enclosures judging by their T/S parameters; however, I also have a few quality PA drivers now in ported and sealed boxes, and they are truly something special for music and remain very crisp/clean for movies as well. It just depends what sound characteristics you’re looking for in a driver/alignment, but I’m guessing since you’re running sealed cabs, you’ll appreciate the PA sound signature of the LaVoce’s.

The higher end PA drivers from LaVoce, B&C, etc., offer similar excursion as the RSS-HO series, but the bass presentation is so incredibly clean, it immediately had me hooked. Not everyone appreciates less distortion in their bass, and quite a lot of people seem to like some harmonics mixed into the ULF, but I’m glad I made the switch in my new little media room.

I know some of these comments about PA drivers are generalizations, and sure there are industry professionals that can EQ most any sub in a given enclosure to be as clean/tight with the right tools, but for most the casual DIY crowd without unlimited time/resources, these PA drivers are a heck of a lot of fun for music and still very potent for movies too.

That’s my $0.02 anyway. I haven’t ever used an Ultimax, but I know they’re severely lacking in the mid/upper bass compared to even modest PA drivers by design, so I guess it all depends on your goals.

Good luck!
 

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Wow I was confused that you said below 300$ but then listed the UM18. That thing is cheap in the states! I pay more for it here in Germany than for a 21DS115.
Either way, I also think you're better off with pro drivers. When I did some modeling with UM drivers, they had to be run quite a bit above their power rating to reach Xmax, which is pretty much its only advantage over any pro driver and I've seen several people complaining about their lack of mid-bass.


B&C stuff is expensive right now, due to them reducing production capacity (corona). LaVoce is made in China and they're working as usual (again).
I'd suggest comparing a few pro drivers in your price range. From what it looks like it's 18TBX100 > SAN184.02; the 184.03 is 340$, but at that price I'd rather go with the 18NW100.
 

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From what it looks like it's 18TBX100 > SAN184.02; the 184.03 is 340$, but at that price I'd rather go with the 18NW100.
I haven’t researched much in DIY since my SAN214.50 build last year, so I’m curious why you’d prefer the B&C 18NW100 at the same price as the SAN184.03? It does seem the B&C is a better fit for the OP being 4ohm, but I feel the better driver going solely on specs is definitely the LaVoce, no? Just curious your preference for the application.

Thanks,
Scott
 

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I haven’t researched much in DIY since my SAN214.50 build last year, so I’m curious why you’d prefer the B&C 18NW100 at the same price as the SAN184.03? It does seem the B&C is a better fit for the OP being 4ohm, but I feel the better driver going solely on specs is definitely the LaVoce, no? Just curious your preference for the application.

Thanks,
Scott

More motor force and higher efficiency (and sensitivity) will allow it to run on less power at the same volume. I haven't simmed the drivers, but thanks to that I'd guess both drivers have about the same headroom, with the B&C running cooler/on less power in any scenario. And since you're usually not (and should not be) running a driver at the end of its rope all the time, the small difference in theoretical headroom becomes moot, which makes me lean towards the more efficient driver.
 

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You guys try all of the new subs so I wanted to get your thoughts. I've had 2 Dayton RSS40HO for almost 10 years and haven't really kept up with the new stuff.

The current subs are in 4 cuft sealed cabinets and each running bridged on their own Crown XLS1502. I've run them pretty hard their whole life and been satisfied with both HT and music close to clipping for extended periods. However if I should swap them both, I'm open to it. I want to stay in the $300/each price range. I'm also not in the mood to build all new cabinets right now.

Choices I see
-Buy another RSS460. That's the cheapest option and no complaints with them.
-Buy 2 UM18. Less sensitivity, and have to possibly massage the baffle for them to fit.
-Some of the new Lavoce neodymium 18s. Better sensitivity but less xmax. Also 8ohm so can't bridge the 1502 to as much power.
-Some other driver I haven't considered.

I can model them after work but just wanted to get some input while I'm still working.
I replaced my RSS460 with the lavoce 21s and they blew them away...
 

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I like, and use, the pro-audio drivers but remember they're damn near unlistenable without dsp, unless you like your upper bass about 9000dB hotter than the low bass.
 

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I like, and use, the pro-audio drivers but remember they're damn near unlistenable without dsp, unless you like your upper bass about 9000dB hotter than the low bass.
If you port them they will generally be flat-ish, but yeah... if you place them in small sealed or horned they can become peaked in the mid-bass. In all cases you'll need DSP for either a HPF and/or taming or ULF boosting.

They are pretty much the exact opposite of a high-excursion sub like a RE XXX-18, you don't need 108mm's of excursion for 100hz, but you do need that for pumping the 1-20hz stuff. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the feedback. I need to set aside some time to model the choices. At the end of a 12 hour day of work(in front of a computer) I usually do anything to get away from the desk.

I replaced my RSS460 with the lavoce 21s and they blew them away...
I'd go that route, but I don't really want to build anything right now. It's 100 degrees and about the same humidity in TN, yeah I'm a sissy:eek:. That limits me to sealed 18s or just 1 sub until fall.

I'm not sure sealed Pro drivers will give me the low-end even with a ton of dsp.
 
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