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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, maybe this isn't the right forum...since it is mostly tweaks...but the name did change, so here goes.


I kept reading about tactile transducers, and had been intrigued with them ever since the CEDIA show where the ButtKicker was introduced...but I never had the disposable cash for that type of product. I was always buying better components (or more of them :)) and with 4 kids...ButtKickers just weren't on the high priority list. Well, you know what they say, you can find anything on the internet! I got to searching one day for DIY tactile transducers and found this link:

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_4_2/tactile.html


Thwy weren't the most professional looking, but the concept made sense, so I looked some more and found this thread:

http://www.smr-archive.com/forum_1/messages/880.shtml


his idea sounded a little cleaner but no pics...so I tried to combine the two. Here is what I came up with....


Parts list:


(4) 8" speakers I had laying around in the workshop

3/8" all thread

3/8" nuts

3/8" lock washers

fender washers

rubber washers

sheet metal (the width of your speaker)

epoxy or plastic glue of some kind


Procedure


1) I marked the edge of the dust cap for step 3


2) Soak dust cao in some speaker solvent for about 5 minutes and remove dust cap


3) remove surround, and then cut cone on mark made in step 1. Use a sharp knife as it will leave a cleaner edge


At this point you have the basket, and the spider is supporting a cone the diameter of the dustcap. the voice coild is sticking up above the bottom part of the cone slightly.


4) Take the plastic glue or epoxy and "paint" a light layer on what is left of the cone. This is for rigidity.


5) Place one nut on the end of the all thread, then a lock washer.


6) Set the assembly inside the voice coil. The nut should be resting on the magnet inside the voice coil.


7) Center the assembly.


8) Place a fender washer over the top of the all thread and down against the cone.


9) Smother the edges of the fender washer (and most of the top) with the glue. This is basically the new dust cap with the all thread stiking out through the hole in the fender washer. Probably could have use a long carriage bolt or something, but I didn't


10) LET THE GLUE DRY FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS!


11) After drying, you need to place another lock washer and nut on the all thread and screw it all the way down. This will "pull" al thread away from the magnet so that it is entirely supported by the fender washer. At this point, it is kind of wobbly as the voice coil wants to move around.


12) Drill a hole in the exact center of your piece of sheet metal. Note: Your sheet metal should already be cut to the correct size. My speakers were 8", I used 6" wide sheet metal so there is a gap on either side. I used tin snips to cut the edges to the same radius as the speakers.


13) Screw another nut down to just below the level of the frame, install a rubber (or plastic) washer, then the sheet metal. The idea is to have the voice coil at the center of its travel so it has equal movement both in and out.


14) Place another rubber washer, then another nut on top of the sheet metal.


15) drill pilot holes, and using sheet metal screws, secure the ends of the sheet metal to the basket.


16) adjust the nuts on either side of the sheet metal so that the all thread is centered, and the voice coil is at center of movement. Once there, tighten the nuts against the sheet metal.


17) For mounting, I have a 4' x 8' x8" riser that there are 2x4s installed "lazy" underneath the top decking. I bought 3/8" brass inserts, drilled a pilot hole, and screwed the assembly into the insert. I had installed another nut onto the al thread and tightened this against the brass insert like a jamb nut.


This was inbelievable! I run them off an old Sony 2 channel amp rated at 50w. (Probably underrated, but...) and I simply y'd into the sub output. There are 4 attached to the bottom of my riser. The riser is 2x8 sides, with 1" plywood (2 1/2" sheets), and the above mentioned 2x4s as support for the top. These are installed right into the 2x4s. I did have to trim the all thread a bit to gain floor clearance. These simply "hang" from the 2x4s, each pair wired in series back to the amp. On top of the riser, is a full size sleeper sof athat seats 4 adults comfortably. WIth the amp at 1/2 gain, you have no problem "feeling the rumble."


Here are some finished pics, but unfortunatley I did n't take any during construction. Oh BTW, without speakers (which were basically free) I've got less than $25 total for 4 of these. The most expensive pieces were the sheet metal and 4 tubes of glue!

http://www.subtv.com/images/jay%20theatre/MVC-099F.JPG

http://www.subtv.com/images/jay%20theatre/MVC-105F.JPG

http://www.subtv.com/images/jay%20theatre/MVC-103F.JPG

http://www.subtv.com/images/jay%20theatre/MVC-102F.JPG
 

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Nice going! A great DIY project!!!
 

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Jay


Nice job. I built five of them the same way about 4 years ago and I used 10" car drivers (seem to be pretty heavy

duty and designed for abuse) they have been working perfectly ever since. I drive them with a Carver

5 channel amp and I use an el cheapo EQ to adjust amount of the effect. There is enough force in these things to knock

drinks off a table! I have one in each seat and two in a couch. A LOT cheaper than buying dedicated ones!


Glenn
 

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Does anyone have pics they took during the assembly of one of these? Or could someone doctor up a pic in Photoshop so I can have visual.


I think I know what needs to be done but I want to make sure :)


Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
a1rabbit,

Sorry. I didn't even think about taking pictures while they were being built. But, ask me any questions and I'll be happy to answer them for you.
 

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Hey, you can always make another one and take lots of pics.. I love the idea and would very much like to see how you did it. :p
 

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Please, that's the whole purpose of the forum, to ask and answer questions. Why clutter up the e-mail?
 
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