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I been looking for one. Most seem to be 2 channels and then jump to 5, 7, or even 12. Do you have a suggestion.
I do:

https://www.d-sonic.com/product-category/three-channel/

Certainly not the cheapest, but certainly not the most expensive either. Cool running, built like tanks, excellent support, and more power than you will need, but that's just the way these are. You will never be lacking for power or capability. Yes, there are cheaper alternatives, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a better one, price to performance and quality. Made in USA.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I do:

https://www.d-sonic.com/product-category/three-channel/

Certainly not the cheapest, but certainly not the most expensive either. Cool running, built like tanks, excellent support, and more power than you will need, but that's just the way these are. You will never be lacking for power or capability. Yes, there are cheaper alternatives, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a better one, price to performance and quality. Made in USA.
Those are very nice for sure. Just a bit too rich for my blood.lol
 

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Discussion Starter #44
This might be a stupid question. But does any of this make any difference if the source wasnt my turntable but instead my computer with its only volume control feed the SR5012 music with and HDMI cable?
 

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No i had never changed it to 4 ohms, had read here it doesnt do anything. How many watts should i be looking for per channel. the speakers say 20 to 14. Does that mean 80 at 2 ohms would do it?
First off, if the amp doesn't shut off in 2-channel it *might* be due to power OR it could be that one of the other speaker wires is shorted out or some other problem, perhaps one or more of the speakers themselves. (Consider also I'm pretty sure you weren't playing the same stuff).
Second, it would be very interesting if you downloaded an SPL meter app, and figured out about what SPL "Volume 70" is.
And completely remove and re-connect each speaker wire, being sure there are no stray little wire filaments sticking out and maybe making a short circuit. If you have-or buy cheaply-a voltmeter, check the DC resistance of each speaker. It should be like 3 ohms.
ELAC do have a reputation for difficult impedance. It's one of the ways they get a lot of bass out of compact boxes (you can search "Hofmann's Iron Law"). But still most folks with most systems and most AVRs should be fine. It is really odd that you're having a problem, unless "Volume 70" is really really loud. I feel it is much more likely there is a wiring problem or the AVR actually has a defect.

Here are "Head_Unit’s Rules Of Protection":
1) If when things start to sound distorted or odd you TURN IT DOWN, you are unlikely to ever break anything.
2) If you constantly "turn it up to 11" you will break something.
3) The amp and speaker power ratings do not matter. Don’t bother “matching” the amp and speaker power. That is a seemingly sensible yet actually meaningless exercise, because:
- Speaker specifications are 92% useless (and I say that as a loudspeaker engineer).
- Specs for amps are not thorough since they are measured into resistors for pragmatic reasons and speakers are not resistors at all.
4) Amps' 4 ohm or even 2 ohm rating is the most meaningful even if your speakers are 8 ohms. Should be 20-20k Hz, distortion under 1% or it's baloney.
5) For amps "more" power means (IF specs are comparable) at least three times as much due to the logarithmic nature of hearing.
6) You are less likely to damage speakers with a big amp, since let’s face it everyone cranks it up sometime, and a small cheap amp is then more likely to clip and possibly put out DC and ultrasonics (This assumes the speakers are not tiny little pieces of poop)

A friend is looking for an outboard amp to add to his AVR. 3-channel are expensive, 2-channel easier to find. I wouldn't bother adding anything rated less than 200 and more like 300 watts into FOUR ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
So last night I listened to music on all 4 channels for 2 hours with the volume at 70. My music sources was my PC connected to my AVR with an HDMI cable. My AVR never shut down. Why would it matter if the source is my turntable? Also keep in mind that it didnt matter when my old speakers were connected. This is like a freaking puzzle lol.
 

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So last night I listened to music on all 4 channels for 2 hours with the volume at 70. My music sources was my PC connected to my AVR with an HDMI cable. My AVR never shut down. Why would it matter if the source is my turntable?
Is the source signal from the turntable stronger than from your PC? Another words, does the music sound louder when listening to vinyl as opposed to when listening to PC, even though you had the receiver volume set to 70 in both cases?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Is the source signal from the turntable stronger than from your PC? Another words, does the music sound louder when listening to vinyl as opposed to when listening to PC, even though you had the receiver volume set to 70 in both cases?
No. In fact, I thought for lvl 70 it was rather low. Only on that particular record though (must have been a low volume recording?) I should add that the SR5012 doesnt have a Phono input, I turned one of the of the other inputs into a Phono. Therefore, I had to turn on my turntables Phono EQ on.
 

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Is there a rumble filter for the phono input, and is it turned on? Records typically have warps and non-eccentricity that induces very low-frequency signals that can be large, Then the phono preamp makes them even larger since bass boost is very high in the RIAA circuit in the phono preamp (see e.g. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RIAA_equalization). If your unit does not have a phono input, what level is coming from your turntable? Does it boost the signal to line level and apply the proper EQ? If it has a preamp in the TT, I would expect it to do the EQ, and hopefully have a rumble filter as well.
 
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