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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read a lot of stuff on here and thought I would chime in with some questions I am double checking or just can't figure out. I have basically 2 questions, with a lot of detail and background encase you have questions and if examples are needed.

Question 1.) Impedance matching - multiple controls with speakers that are either 4 or 8 ohms all going back to one channel parallel

I just can't seem to figure out impedance matching settings and Google has me running in circles- The knobs' grid says to set the knob for number of speakers but does that take into consideration multiple knobs changing their speakers ohms already? example - If I run a set of speakers to the garage next month, and would have 6 speakers total off of a cheap amp, 4 pool speakers and have 2 garage w another volume knob, all parallel off one 2 channel amplifier, then How do I set each knob:
A.)Options I was think about for setup:
1.) set each knob for 6 speakers (4 pool speakers + 2 garage)?
2.) (set pool knob for 4 speakers bringing it back to 8 ohms same as 2 speakers, then set the garage for 4 speakers (the compensated pool = 2 + 2 garage?
3.) I'm leaning towards Pool knob set to 4, and garage is set for 2


Question 2.) Cheap Amp options:
I have volume controls that compensate for the ohms, but now my volume cannot go up past -25 with the second set attached to the center channel (5 speakers), I assume bc of too many watts being drawn off of one channel. I guess I could add the left and right to the respective channels (2 speakers to each channel), but I'd like to create a separate power system for the pool speakers, With a semi working system my wife would be hard pressed to let me buy more stuff now after our big move. I have spent days verifying ohms and how they work, and looking at ideas, and wanted your thoughts and if I am headed in the right direction temporarily and safely.

Example of my current needs: So I have these speakers in my boat and do to wind, engine noise, water spray, sun, salt, and much more they work fine and last a couple years:
boat speakers:
Amazon.com: PYLE PLMR60W 150-Watt 6.5-Inch 2-Way Marine Speakers (White): Car Electronics


Now I know these are in no way HiDef and as I said I'm ok with that, but it got me thinking. Now that you know what I am going for, here is my idea. Please keep in mind my wife will be frustrated with me spending $100 at this point, so I'd like to “make do” for now and think I can get her approval for this.

New house:
The previous owner took out the speakers and left wires so I I have 4 of these speakers around my patio overhang near my our pool again to make do for now. Wind, hot tub bubbles/pump, pool pump, kids, and much more play a role in not needed HiDef. So I am looking for an easy way to power the speakers. Since the speakers are 4 or 8 ohms, my thought was to take my av out from my receiver and run it to a amp if possible while running HDMI at the same time.

A home amp
$50 = 150 watts at 4 ohms (so thats 75 watts at 8 ohms right? to compare to the 300 watt amp below... - Amazon.com: Pyle Home PCA3 150-Watt Stereo Mini Power Amplifier: Car Electronics
$110 = 300watts at 8 ohms - Amazon.com: Pyle Home PT3300 3000-Watt Power Amplifier: Electronics

Note about amp ideas: The media cabinet is just a 39" upper kitchen cabinet in a row of them under a bar and is attached to a wall that the wires go through, and plumbing/electrical is inside of it going to the dishwasher/sink, etc so I can't cut out the back into the wall. It's only 11 3/4" deep x 24" wide with 15"-16" of usable height left (so I could put a rack sized amp facing up if I had to but the two amps linked above would fit and be cheap for now. Each shelf has a 110cm fan pushing air up, with extra cutouts that I made for wires and airflow along the side and back. It wouldn't be hard to cut out the bottom of a shelf where wires would hang down if the unit had to face upward do to depth issues though.

originally I was thinking about the cooler stereos and an amp like this for size/low heat, but it's only 20 watts each channel.
Amazon.com: Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply: Electronics

Our pool speakers: If the speakers are 4 or 8 ohms what decides how the speaker is pulling/ how much are they pulling from the receiver via the volume knob set up for 8ohms? I did not see a switch on the speaker. They have a resistor and capacitor or something similar if I remember correctly which seemed odd.
Amazon.com: Pyle PDIC60 In-Wall / In-Ceiling Dual 6.5-Inch Speaker System, Directable Tweeter, 2-Way, Flush Mount, White (Pair): Electronics


I ask bc my main concerns are
1.) drawing too much power from the av output or screwing things up with my sound system and if HDMI out (inside house) and AV out (pool) can run at the same time. Note I don't use the sub. I'm not sure if that output filtered bass only at the receivers' end or at the powered subs' end.

This is my stereo and it works great bc I can use Shoutcast to play music or stream my MP3s to the pool from multiple devices. I can use our phones, tablet, friend's devices, etc which make it easy, vs aux wires and such and walking back and forth inside - thus the reason I want to come off of my Yamaha receiver 1st.

Stereo system:
Amazon.com: Yamaha YHT-597 5.1-Channel Network Home Theater System (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Electronics

Reciever RX-V473: It has a sub, monitor, and av out. I'm not sure yet if while using the HDMI out if the AV out would also work to send my audio to the car amp, or if it bypasses as default to the HDMI.
Amazon.com: Yamaha RX-V473 5.1- Channel Network AV Receiver (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Electronics

Is this doable? Thanks for your help, time, and thoughts on the subject

with appreciation everyone,

Stew



Update:

I'm thinking I might run around to all the goodwills and look for an old 70s or 80s non-digital reciever to get good power at a low price unless you guys think the ones above will be better.
 

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I have read a lot of stuff on here and thought I would chime in with some questions I am double checking or just can't figure out. I have basically 2 questions, with a lot of detail and background encase you have questions and if examples are needed.

Question 1.) Impedance matching - multiple controls with speakers that are either 4 or 8 ohms all going back to one channel parallel

I just can't seem to figure out impedance matching settings and Google has me running in circles- The knobs' grid says to set the knob for number of speakers but does that take into consideration multiple knobs changing their speakers ohms already? example - If I run a set of speakers to the garage next month, and would have 6 speakers total off of a cheap amp, 4 pool speakers and have 2 garage w another volume knob, all parallel off one 2 channel amplifier, then How do I set each knob:
A.)Options I was think about for setup:
1.) set each knob for 6 speakers (4 pool speakers + 2 garage)?
2.) (set pool knob for 4 speakers bringing it back to 8 ohms same as 2 speakers, then set the garage for 4 speakers (the compensated pool = 2 + 2 garage?
3.) I'm leaning towards Pool knob set to 4, and garage is set for 2


Question 2.) Cheap Amp options:
I have volume controls that compensate for the ohms, but now my volume cannot go up past -25 with the second set attached to the center channel (5 speakers), I assume bc of too many watts being drawn off of one channel. I guess I could add the left and right to the respective channels (2 speakers to each channel), but I'd like to create a separate power system for the pool speakers, With a semi working system my wife would be hard pressed to let me buy more stuff now after our big move. I have spent days verifying ohms and how they work, and looking at ideas, and wanted your thoughts and if I am headed in the right direction temporarily and safely.

Example of my current needs: So I have these speakers in my boat and do to wind, engine noise, water spray, sun, salt, and much more they work fine and last a couple years:
boat speakers:
Amazon.com: PYLE PLMR60W 150-Watt 6.5-Inch 2-Way Marine Speakers (White): Car Electronics


Now I know these are in no way HiDef and as I said I'm ok with that, but it got me thinking. Now that you know what I am going for, here is my idea. Please keep in mind my wife will be frustrated with me spending $100 at this point, so I'd like to “make do” for now and think I can get her approval for this.

New house:
The previous owner took out the speakers and left wires so I I have 4 of these speakers around my patio overhang near my our pool again to make do for now. Wind, hot tub bubbles/pump, pool pump, kids, and much more play a role in not needed HiDef. So I am looking for an easy way to power the speakers. Since the speakers are 4 or 8 ohms, my thought was to take my av out from my receiver and run it to a amp if possible while running HDMI at the same time.

A home amp
$50 = 150 watts at 4 ohms (so thats 75 watts at 8 ohms right? to compare to the 300 watt amp below... - Amazon.com: Pyle Home PCA3 150-Watt Stereo Mini Power Amplifier: Car Electronics
$110 = 300watts at 8 ohms - Amazon.com: Pyle Home PT3300 3000-Watt Power Amplifier: Electronics

Note about amp ideas: The media cabinet is just a 39" upper kitchen cabinet in a row of them under a bar and is attached to a wall that the wires go through, and plumbing/electrical is inside of it going to the dishwasher/sink, etc so I can't cut out the back into the wall. It's only 11 3/4" deep x 24" wide with 15"-16" of usable height left (so I could put a rack sized amp facing up if I had to but the two amps linked above would fit and be cheap for now. Each shelf has a 110cm fan pushing air up, with extra cutouts that I made for wires and airflow along the side and back. It wouldn't be hard to cut out the bottom of a shelf where wires would hang down if the unit had to face upward do to depth issues though.

originally I was thinking about the cooler stereos and an amp like this for size/low heat, but it's only 20 watts each channel.
Amazon.com: Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply: Electronics

Our pool speakers: If the speakers are 4 or 8 ohms what decides how the speaker is pulling/ how much are they pulling from the receiver via the volume knob set up for 8ohms? I did not see a switch on the speaker. They have a resistor and capacitor or something similar if I remember correctly which seemed odd.
Amazon.com: Pyle PDIC60 In-Wall / In-Ceiling Dual 6.5-Inch Speaker System, Directable Tweeter, 2-Way, Flush Mount, White (Pair): Electronics


I ask bc my main concerns are
1.) drawing too much power from the av output or screwing things up with my sound system and if HDMI out (inside house) and AV out (pool) can run at the same time. Note I don't use the sub. I'm not sure if that output filtered bass only at the receivers' end or at the powered subs' end.

This is my stereo and it works great bc I can use Shoutcast to play music or stream my MP3s to the pool from multiple devices. I can use our phones, tablet, friend's devices, etc which make it easy, vs aux wires and such and walking back and forth inside - thus the reason I want to come off of my Yamaha receiver 1st.

Stereo system:
Amazon.com: Yamaha YHT-597 5.1-Channel Network Home Theater System (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Electronics

Reciever RX-V473: It has a sub, monitor, and av out. I'm not sure yet if while using the HDMI out if the AV out would also work to send my audio to the car amp, or if it bypasses as default to the HDMI.
Amazon.com: Yamaha RX-V473 5.1- Channel Network AV Receiver (Discontinued by Manufacturer): Electronics

Is this doable? Thanks for your help, time, and thoughts on the subject

with appreciation everyone,

Stew



Update:

I'm thinking I might run around to all the goodwills and look for an old 70s or 80s non-digital reciever to get good power at a low price unless you guys think the ones above will be better.
Use this:

http://www.parts-express.com/wired-home-ss6-speaker-selector-impedance-matching-1-in-6-out--300-972

With this:

http://www.parts-express.com/yamaha-r-s201-stereo-receiver-100-watts-per-channel--312-208

With these:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton...ay-indoor-outdoor-speaker-pair-black--310-012

Wire the Pool speakers to the left channel and the garage to the Right channel and use the receivers balance control as a zone volume and the main volume control for overall system volume! In this way there will be no voltage sag within or between zones - one amp per zone with active preamp volume setting, by using the balance control.

And call it done!
 

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Sorry, I didn't have the energy to read all that but let me just say that you should have one speaker per amplifier and one amplifier per speaker. Anything else produces poor sound.
That makes no sense. You can run multiple speakers per channel without any problems.
You are 100% correct!

FMW Has simply stated an 'ideal', but unfortunately, he added a false statement in the next sentence.

Such is life, in public forums!:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I ran audio out/RCAs to a 1990s Pioneer 100w x 5 channel receiver that I got at good will for $30. It took driving all over town, finding a speaker and tuning the FM, and testing out all the channels in all the stores until I found something. It works good for now :)


I am still pondering impedance matching via my IM volume control knobs - I set the volume controls for the number of speakers it individually controls right, that is, not taking other controls into consideration...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So sound to the "amp" aka receiver-#2 doesn't work from HDMI, just the AV/RCA signals work w the RCA outs which is great for my turntable, but that was it. After another 4 hours of research I found I need a LOC line out converter, spliced in with my front channels and corresponding speakers. The converter get the signal and lowers it down to line-level giving me RCA pre-outs essentially. Now I can power more speakers safely for all inputs.

I assumed the sub pre-out is 100Hz or less so I didn't try tapping into that with a RCA Y adapter to the amp
 
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