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Should I still profile it to my Colormunki or is the calibration performed by Spectracal likely to make the meter more accurate than I could being a DIYer trying to profile a meter for the first time?
If I bought a c6.......
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Quote:
If the internal profiles are more accurate than profiling from a Colormunki Spectrophotometer it would be by pure dumb luck. Use the munki as your reference meter to profile the colorimeter.
Originally Posted by hifiaudio2  Should I still profile it to my Colormunki or is the calibration performed by Spectracal likely to make the meter more accurate than I could being a DIYer trying to profile a meter for the first time? |
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Yeah thats actually what I was deciding between. If the calibrated c6 was somehow more accurate, I would get that, but since its not, the oem makes more sense. I just hope I can get a proper profile and feel confident that I did it correctly.
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We throw around words like accuracy and repeatability as being different. If a measurement is not repeatable the instrument isn't accurate despite it being calibrated by offsets to make it more accurate. Then we get into the variance of repeatability. The basic tolerence of the meter. If measurements can repeatedly be made varying only by the tolerence of thre devicethe meter is accurate. Then again, to many the tolence is what defines accuracy. One pays the bucks to get a better tolerence.
In production engineering they have ways of measuring to 4 or 5 decimal places but do not use them for components or assemblies that only need to be +/- an eighth of an inch.
What degree of tolerance is necessary for a video system? Are the outputs so stable that once calibrated to that degree they will remain so?
I genuinely do not know the answer but suspect we are guilty of calibrating too accurately for repeatability by the Display.
In production engineering they have ways of measuring to 4 or 5 decimal places but do not use them for components or assemblies that only need to be +/- an eighth of an inch.
What degree of tolerance is necessary for a video system? Are the outputs so stable that once calibrated to that degree they will remain so?
I genuinely do not know the answer but suspect we are guilty of calibrating too accurately for repeatability by the Display.
Along these lines, are the increments for the display's adjustments fine enough to take advantage of a more accurate measurement device? It does no good to be able to measure something to 5 decimal places if the display's control for the parameter of interest is only able to adjust to the 3rd decimal place.
Along these lines, are the increments for the display's adjustments fine enough to take advantage of a more accurate measurement device? It does no good to be able to measure something to 5 decimal places if the display's control for the parameter of interest is only able to adjust to the 3rd decimal place.
This is what I did as well. For a home enthusiast, this is a fine setup.
Well said. I have wondered this same thing. But, you sum it up right on.
What is the difference in the ability of a display with 10 point WB and advanced CMS vs having a Duo or Radiance? And then, just how much accuracy is enough?
This is what I did as well. For a home enthusiast, this is a fine setup.
Well said. I have wondered this same thing. But, you sum it up right on.
What is the difference in the ability of a display with 10 point WB and advanced CMS vs having a Duo or Radiance? And then, just how much accuracy is enough?
Not only that, even if the Displays controls are able to match the meters accuracy how long does that accuracy remain on the Display.
I think it may drift or even fluctuate quite quickly away from this accurate figure. As I say I don't know how much or how quickly it does this but surely this should be the 'tolerance' or the range of readings the accuracy of our meter should be aimed at?
In other words a plus or minus figure rather than a specific figure to 'n' decimal places.
Not only that, even if the Displays controls are able to match the meters accuracy how long does that accuracy remain on the Display.
I think it may drift or even fluctuate quite quickly away from this accurate figure. As I say I don't know how much or how quickly it does this but surely this should be the 'tolerance' or the range of readings the accuracy of our meter should be aimed at?
In other words a plus or minus figure rather than a specific figure to 'n' decimal places.
Displays do drift. In fact, there is growing evidence that the LED LCD displays drift considerably. That's why a touch-up calibration is recommended every few thousand hours.
FYI, I've touched up the calibration of my Panasonic plasma twice during its 7000 hours of use so far. Each time, the gray scale had drifted slightly toward yellow/orange (but not by a noticeable degree). This required little more than increasing blue drive a couple of clicks to rectify.
Displays do drift. In fact, there is growing evidence that the LED LCD displays drift considerably. That's why a touch-up calibration is recommended every few thousand hours.
FYI, I've touched up the calibration of my Panasonic plasma twice during its 7000 hours of use so far. Each time, the gray scale had drifted slightly toward yellow/orange (but not by a noticeable degree). This required little more than increasing blue drive a couple of clicks to rectify.
After doing my research, I'm getting the OEM i1Display and profile it against my i1Pro then getting a C6. Part of the reason is different display might have a different type of offset so it's best to do a offset from a reasonable accurate spectrometer then just a profile that might be calibrated from different display set. The main purpose of getting the i1Display is to speed up the calibration process and more accurate low reading with 3D projector as the light output is very low when calibrated through 3D glasses. Using 100% White, I get 18ftL from Acer H5360BD but when in 3D mode, I get around 4.5ftL (25% light reading only).
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