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I'm at the furring strip, linacoustic - fabric stage, but totally clueless, help!

12927 Views 58 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  BIGmouthinDC
I recently had my carpet done, and I'm feeling really excited to finally be at this stage. I feel like I'm finally getting closer to completion. It almost seems like a real room, except for the fact that my walls aren't finished. I bought a 100 foot roll of 47" linacoustic (for $243.99 afer tax - OUCH). I also bought two boxes of OC703 to do super chunks in my front two corners. ($203 shipped for the two boxes, OUCH). I bought a Unicatch US2238A Stapler for the fabric part of the equation. (waiting for it to get here).


So anyways, I'm trying to get all the materials I'm going to need to do the whole linacoustic, furring strips, fabric part of the equation, but I must say that I'm pretty clueless about this whole thing. I've looked at a bunch of threads, and seen the pictures and such, but I still feel like a fish out of water when it comes to this. I've got a million questions, so I guess I'll just start asking my questions and see if anybody can answer them.



1. I'm assuming that the first step would be to make my furring strips, and get them on the walls where they need to be located, and then after that I can start putting up the linacoustic. From reading the various threads, it appears that wherever you have a furring strip, you are going to need to hide it behind something at the end. With either baseboard, chair rail, crown molding, etc, etc. This is to hide the millions of staples. Makes sense. Ok, my first question, is how low to the ground do I actually put these furring strips? Do I put them just above where the carpet is? Do I leave any kind of gap or anything? Should I basically have a furring strip running along the bottom of every wall, at the very bottom, touching the carpet?


2. I already have door trim on my three doors in the room. Do I remove the door trim and run the furring strips along where the doors trim/molding stuff was? So that after I'm done, I can get some more door trim to hide the furring strips under that?


3. Do I absolutely have to have a chair rail? I guess this depends on the width of the fabric that I get. I'm looking at Dazian as the fabric. I want to get a black, and also a dark red/burgandy fabric. Basically, I want my screen wall to be black, and the side walls to be dark red/burgandy. I think Dazian makes their fabrics in a really wide width, so maybe I can actually avoid having a chair rail? The only reason I'm not too interested in a chair rail, is because I don't really want to go with a two-tone look on the side walls. I just want the side walls to be one color. So having a chair rail, dividing the same color, might look a bit silly.


4. What is the difference between a linear yard and a square yard, when it comes to fabric? I'm pretty clueless about the whole fabric thing in general. I understand that most people use a chair rail, because the fabric isn't wide enough to do the entire wall. So, if somebody could kind of explain the width of fabrics, and how they are sold, I would appreciate that. I went to Joann's Fabrics a few weeks back, and was just so confused at everything, lol.



5. So, if I did go with a Dazian fabric, that has the really wide widths, would I just need a furring strip at the top of the wall, and one at the bottom of the wall? I'm not trying to make any panels, I'm trying to do the whole entire wall. Then, when it comes to hiding all the staples, I just have baseboard on the bottom, hiding the bottom furring strip, and some type of crown molding at the top, hiding the top furring strip. Right?


6. Do I need to leave a gap at the top of the wall, for the furring strip at the top of the wall?


7. I've heard alot of talk about getting furring strips that are truly 1 inch, rather than a 3/4 inch. Sounds kinda complicated and a bit expensvie. I've also heard of people going with the ones that are 1 inch (but really 3/4 inch), and it not really being that big of a deal. I think I'm going to go that route just to make it simple. Would this be a tragic mistake? What kind of board do I buy at Home Depot to make these furring strips?


8. In most of the threads, I've seen people surround their outlets and light switch things with furring strip as well. I'm guessing this is standard practice, and I should do this as well?


9. I'd like to order my fabric now, but I'm not sure what fabric I should be ordering. I'm trying to get fabric that would be as close to acoustically transparent as possible, like GOM, but don't want to spend GOM money. I know that I need black, and I also know that I need a dark red/burgandy color. Looking at the GOM fabric, I kinda like the color of "2100-418 Claret Accent". I like "2100-556 Deep Burgandy" too, but it almost seems a bit too dark. Thing is, I'm going to be getting my fabrics from Dazian, so that I can save some money, and get a wide enough width to hopefully not need a chair rail. My question is, how do I find a acoustically transparent fabric from Dazian that is in a color that is really close to the GOM Claret Accent? I looked on Dazians website, and they have a million different fabrics, and I would have no idea which kind of fabric to order. Also, what is the preferred black to go with, from Dazian?


Anyways, these are some questions to start out. I hate to overwhelm everybody with so many questions, but I just thought I would throw these out there, and if anybody had any answers to them, great. I'm guessing that my first step is to get the furring strips up, so that should be my main focus. I already have the linacoustic, so once I have the furring strips up, then I can start putting up the linacoustic.
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Furring strips


I made my furring strips out of 1/2 plywood sanded on both sides (stuff is super straight but not cheap $25 a sheet) I ripped the sheets into 2 inch strips and then glued and stapled them together. they end up being about 1/32 of a inch shy of 1" and it matches up great with the linacoustic. I then used my finish nailer to attached them to the walls. I placed wood shims on the floor and set my furring strips on them. that gave me about a 1/4 of a inch off the carpet

Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly /forum/post/12914543


Furring strips


I made my furring strips out of 1/2 plywood sanded on both sides (stuff is super straight but not cheap $25 a sheet) I ripped the sheets into 2 inch strips and then glued and stapled them together. they end up being about 1/32 of a inch shy of 1" and it matches up great with the linacoustic. I then used my finish nailer to attached them to the walls. I placed wood shims on the floor and set my furring strips on them. that gave me about a 1/4 of a inch off the carpet


Ok, so I go to Home Depot, and ask for 1/2 plywood that is sanded on both sides, that costs $25 a sheet.


Now, what exactly do you mean you "ripped the sheets into 2 inch strips and then glued and stapled them together"?


What size is the plywood sheet that you got? How many furring strips did you make out of it? What kind of glue did you use?


Sorry for so many questions, but I want to make sure I understand what you're talking about.
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If you have not looked at Bud's (Chinadog's) thread, I would do so. It has a bunch of good pictures and explanations about the whole process. The first post has an index so you can find just what you are looking for.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=549924
I just went thru the whole furring strip, linacoustic, GOM route. I cant answer all of your questions but a few of them I might be able to help.


1. I'm assuming that the first step would be to make my furring strips, and get them on the walls where they need to be located, and then after that I can start putting up the linacoustic. From reading the various threads, it appears that wherever you have a furring strip, you are going to need to hide it behind something at the end. With either baseboard, chair rail, crown molding, etc, etc. This is to hide the millions of staples. Makes sense. Ok, my first question, is how low to the ground do I actually put these furring strips? Do I put them just above where the carpet is? Do I leave any kind of gap or anything? Should I basically have a furring strip running along the bottom of every wall, at the very bottom, touching the carpet?


As far as the furring strips go, some people use a 1x2 from the lumber yard which is not a true 1". I was personally scared of having a "dip" in my GOM near the furring strips so I chose to not do that. So you can either go with the plywood route and cut and glue a bunch of strips together, or do what I did and special order some true 1" clear pine from a lumber yard. Worked well for me, but ran me about a dollar a foot. Furring strips could be right on the carpet since you will most likely be putting moulding over the furring strip.


2. I already have door trim on my three doors in the room. Do I remove the door trim and run the furring strips along where the doors trim/molding stuff was? So that after I'm done, I can get some more door trim to hide the furring strips under that?


Yes, you will need to take that door trim off. I put a 1"x 3" strip up then put my door moulding back on over that. Otherwise you wont have a good edge to staple to.


3. Do I absolutely have to have a chair rail? I guess this depends on the width of the fabric that I get. I'm looking at Dazian as the fabric. I want to get a black, and also a dark red/burgandy fabric. Basically, I want my screen wall to be black, and the side walls to be dark red/burgandy. I think Dazian makes their fabrics in a really wide width, so maybe I can actually avoid having a chair rail? The only reason I'm not too interested in a chair rail, is because I don't really want to go with a two-tone look on the side walls. I just want the side walls to be one color. So having a chair rail, dividing the same color, might look a bit silly.


You will have to do a seam somewhere on that wall, so chair rail is a good way to split the room. Other people use Fabricmate track, which runs about a dollar a foot, which would be a good way to do a seam without a chair rail.


4. What is the difference between a linear yard and a square yard, when it comes to fabric? I'm pretty clueless about the whole fabric thing in general. I understand that most people use a chair rail, because the fabric isn't wide enough to do the entire wall. So, if somebody could kind of explain the width of fabrics, and how they are sold, I would appreciate that. I went to Joann's Fabrics a few weeks back, and was just so confused at everything, lol.


GOM is sold by the linear yard. So you buy 10 yards and you get 30' x 66".

Not sure what the width of Dazian fabric is.



5. So, if I did go with a Dazian fabric, that has the really wide widths, would I just need a furring strip at the top of the wall, and one at the bottom of the wall? I'm not trying to make any panels, I'm trying to do the whole entire wall. Then, when it comes to hiding all the staples, I just have baseboard on the bottom, hiding the bottom furring strip, and some type of crown molding at the top, hiding the top furring strip. Right?


That would work if the fabric is wide enough to do your whole wall. Make sure you get it really tight or you could get sag later on.


6. Do I need to leave a gap at the top of the wall, for the furring strip at the top of the wall?


I dont see a need for a gap at the top of the wall.


7. I've heard alot of talk about getting furring strips that are truly 1 inch, rather than a 3/4 inch. Sounds kinda complicated and a bit expensvie. I've also heard of people going with the ones that are 1 inch (but really 3/4 inch), and it not really being that big of a deal. I think I'm going to go that route just to make it simple. Would this be a tragic mistake? What kind of board do I buy at Home Depot to make these furring strips?


If you want to go with the 3/4" route HD sells "pine select" clear pine that is fairly straight.


8. In most of the threads, I've seen people surround their outlets and light switch things with furring strip as well. I'm guessing this is standard practice, and I should do this as well?


Yes you will need to surround your outlets with the same material you use on your furring strips, then staple the fabric VERY closely to the inner edge of the furring strip so that the plate outlet cover will cover up the staples. I then used "old work boxes" that I had to cut to depth and glue and screw next to the existing boxes so that I had no wires next to wood. "The geeks" build thread gave me the idea, might want to check his thread out.



9. I'd like to order my fabric now, but I'm not sure what fabric I should be ordering. I'm trying to get fabric that would be as close to acoustically transparent as possible, like GOM, but don't want to spend GOM money. I know that I need black, and I also know that I need a dark red/burgandy color. Looking at the GOM fabric, I kinda like the color of "2100-418 Claret Accent". I like "2100-556 Deep Burgandy" too, but it almost seems a bit too dark. Thing is, I'm going to be getting my fabrics from Dazian, so that I can save some money, and get a wide enough width to hopefully not need a chair rail. My question is, how do I find a acoustically transparent fabric from Dazian that is in a color that is really close to the GOM Claret Accent? I looked on Dazians website, and they have a million different fabrics, and I would have no idea which kind of fabric to order. Also, what is the preferred black to go with, from Dazian?


The acoustically transparent GOM is the 701.


Couple other tips, alot of people use the nails or screws with the plastic discs attached to them to put their Linacoustic up. I just used 1.25" drywall screws with good results.


Do yourself a favor and buy a air stapler. I went with a craftsman 20 gauge upholstery stapler from Sears for about $80. There is also a 22 gauge porter cable that alot of people on the forums use. You will be stapling ALOT, and the electric staplers arent worth a crap imo. PM me if you have any more questions.


Don
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Heres a little info on Dazian.


Acoustically neutral fabric:

Exposure

$4.95/yd

48" wide

11 colors

slight pattern, no stretch

Janus

$8.50/yd

72" wide

31 colors

smooth - no pattern, no stretch

Celtic Cloth

$12.90/yd

122" wide

2 colors (black and white)

smooth and a little stretch


The most cost effective would be to use the burgundy exposure for the side walls and the Celtic for the screen wall. (no seam)


If you look at Buds thread you will notice he used all one color and didn't want a chair rail. He put a 45 degree edge on the top and bottom piece to break up the wall and hide the seam. Seems like the way to go if you don't want a chair rail - hey pun!!!


Another route was the way Ronnie Jackson went. He built a floor to ceiling frame, stretched the fabric over it and attached it to the wall - no seam.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd /forum/post/12915573


If you have not looked at Bud's (Chinadog's) thread, I would do so. It has a bunch of good pictures and explanations about the whole process. The first post has an index so you can find just what you are looking for.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=549924

Except the post marked "Linacoustic" is the one where it shows the roll, not the install... Still searching (wow that post has a LOT of pages...)
If the Dazian "Exposure" fabric is only 48 inches wide, with my Linacoustic being 47 inches wide, and the two furring strips being 2 inches each, isn't this a problem?


Or would I simply need to trim a few inches off the top of the linacoustic? I'm thinking now that I'm going to need three furring stips. One at the very bottom of the wall, one at the very top, and one where the chair rail is going to be. I was going to try to use the Celtic cloth that is 122" wide to have no chair rail, but didn't realize it's only available in black and white. That could work for the screen wall, but I need a very dark red or burgandy type color for the side walls.
Yep, Celtic is only Black or White. Used it on my star ceiling:
IMG

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1 /forum/post/12914773


Ok, so I go to Home Depot, and ask for 1/2 plywood that is sanded on both sides, that costs $25 a sheet.

Just some random responses to your questions.


Not the best (or cheapest) method if you own a table saw. Buy 2x4s or 2x6s and cut 1 inch strips. They end up being 1 1/2 x 1 inch.


You need to study up on the blind staple technique where you staple the fabric to a loose furring strip then mount it to the wall with staples hidden.


You also need to study how furring strips are mounted in anticipation of proving a stable base for mounting molding. That means for a 5 inch base board molding you actually need two strips. One to support each edge of the molding. That partially answers your question on how close to the floor because you only need to cover the top strip with fabric.


The same holds true for the case molding around a door frame. You add a strip to build out the edge of the door frame and another for the other edge of the molding. I used the 1 1/4 inch thick finger joined exterior trim boards (Home Depot) that I ripped into one inch strips from wider boards to get good tight wood that looked good painted.


here is a shot of a door that was built out with the furring strip technique. It looks best to use a reveal (offset) when putting on the furring.

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Here is the best part of ChinaDogs documentation. It is the 207 photo documentation of the process. When he gets into the 180 or so range he starts adding a lot of specific comments and diagrams of corner techniques.


So go through each photo read the comments, take two aspirin and call us in the morning.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...bric_linacous/


Included is the solution to "I don't want a chair rail" problem.


A nice neat seam.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1 /forum/post/12925834


If the Dazian "Exposure" fabric is only 48 inches wide, with my Linacoustic being 47 inches wide, and the two furring strips being 2 inches each, isn't this a problem?


Or would I simply need to trim a few inches off the top of the linacoustic? I'm thinking now that I'm going to need three furring stips. One at the very bottom of the wall, one at the very top, and one where the chair rail is going to be. I was going to try to use the Celtic cloth that is 122" wide to have no chair rail, but didn't realize it's only available in black and white. That could work for the screen wall, but I need a very dark red or burgandy type color for the side walls.

It is really important to understand that the acoustic solution for your room is more unique than just adding 47" of acoustic material to the wall. My room needed it to 60" in some places. Don't get me wrong, it will definitely help but you will also notice in Chinadogs pictures he has foil scrim on the bottom as well. There are several forum members that can help you with this. I worked with Bryan Pape.


You can always cut the linacoustic where you want the chair rail/seam, and put some of the linacoustic above that.


This is really a great thread that should help lots of people. Me included.

Quote:
Originally Posted by judsonp /forum/post/12916378


Heres a little info on Dazian.


Acoustically neutral fabric:

Exposure

$4.95/yd

48" wide

11 colors

slight pattern, no stretch

Janus

$8.50/yd

72" wide

31 colors

smooth - no pattern, no stretch

Celtic Cloth

$12.90/yd

122" wide

2 colors (black and white)

smooth and a little stretch


The most cost effective would be to use the burgundy exposure for the side walls and the Celtic for the screen wall. (no seam)


If you look at Buds thread you will notice he used all one color and didn't want a chair rail. He put a 45 degree edge on the top and bottom piece to break up the wall and hide the seam. Seems like the way to go if you don't want a chair rail - hey pun!!!


Another route was the way Ronnie Jackson went. He built a floor to ceiling frame, stretched the fabric over it and attached it to the wall - no seam.



Ok, here is a question for you in regards to the Exposure fabric. It's 48 inches wide and has no stretch. My linacoustic roll is 47". Most people make their furring strips 2 inches wide. I'm going to have a furring stip at the bottom of the wall, about 1/4 inch above carpet level, and I'm going to have a furring stip at the top of the wall (where the wall and the bottom of the soffit connects to each other) The height of the wall from the carpet to the bottom of the soffit is roughly 89 inches, so with any fabric other than the 122" wide Celtic Cloth, I'm going to need a furring strip somewhere in the middle area of the wall, (to be later covered by chair rail).


Now, I'm assuming that it would be impossible to leave the linacoustic as is, (in terms of it's 47 inch height), if I use the Exposure fabric. Reason being, I would only have a half inch of play on either side. I'm not sure that this would give me the ability to staple the fabric to both the bottom furring strip and the middle one, as well as cover the entire 47 inches of linacoustic. Since there is no stretch, I"m guessing that would be impossible. Of course, this isn't really that big of a deal, cause I can just cut a few inches off the top of the linacoustic, and I can put that above the chair rail, if need be.


So, my question is:


1. Would using the Exposure over the 47" linacoustic be impossible like I think it would be? (I'm assuming it would be, but just want to make sure, cause somehow if it would actually work, that would be almost perfect, to not have to even cut the fabric, for the bottom portion of the walls)


2. Assuming it is impossilbe, then my question would be, what would be the ideal amount of play one would want to have with a fabric that is 48 inches wide and has no stretch? What I mean by that, is assuming you have to staple this 48 inch fabric to two furring strips, one at the bottom of the wall, and one in the middle of the wall, and assuming those strips are 2 inches, and the middle one also has to have some room for the staples for the fabric on the top part of the wall, what distance would I want between the two furring strips?


For example, lets say that I would want a distance of 42 inches. Then there would be the furring strip on the bottom of the wall that's two inches, the furring strip in the middle of the wall that's two inches (although I would really only be using 1 inch of that strip for the bottom portion of the wall), that would be a total of 45 inches, which would mean that I have basically 1 1/2 inches of play on each side.... Would this be enough? Or would I want the distance to be 40 inches, so that I would have 2 1/2 inches of play on each side?


Hopefully you understand what I mean by this. Basically, I'm just trying to get an idea of how many "extra" inches of fabric I should have on each side (for each furring strip), to insure that I have enough "play", to make it work. If that makes any sense at all.


Anybody that understands what I'm talking about here is free to chime in with their suggestions. Also, I apologize in advance if this is a really dumb and silly question. I'm sure I'll be asking alot of silly questions in this thread, but honestly, when it comes to all this fabric stuff, I really am a fish out of water on this one, and I'm treading into uncharted territory.
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Anthony you are way over thinking this. If you have to trim the linacoutic a bit its not a problem the stuff cuts like butta.


I just got done putting up dazian Celtic it says it has a slight stretch but it stretches more then you would think.


I first ordered and went with the exposure but it has a pattern to it and has lots of stretch to it. when I tried stapling it up and tried to keep it from deforming the pattern it was going to be a real pain so I ordered the Celtic and it went up quick it has no pattern so no worries about distortion


The celtic comes 61" which would solve your dilemma. also I'll post you some photo's of the furing strips I made. the linacoutic matched up perfect
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly /forum/post/12944745

Anthony you are way over thinking this. If you have to trim the linacoutic a bit its not a problem the stuff cuts like butta.


I just got done putting up dazian Celtic it says it has a slight stretch but it stretches more then you would think.


I first ordered and went with the exposure but it has a pattern to it and has lots of stretch to it. when I tried stapling it up and tried to keep it from deforming the pattern it was going to be a real pain so I ordered the Celtic and it went up quick it has no pattern so no worries about distortion


The celtic comes 61" which would solve your dilemma. also I'll post you some photo's of the furing strips I made. the linacoutic matched up perfect

Yeah, over thinking things has always been one of my biggest problems, lol. I'd imagine that cutting the linacoustic isn't that big of a deal. It's still in it's packaging, so I haven't actually messed with the linacoustic yet, so I wasn't sure how it would exactly cut, but I figured it wouldn't be a problem. My only issue with cutting the linacoustic, is that I did want it to go up to ear level, so if I do have to trim it, then I'm going to have to put some above the chair rail as well. I'm already planning on doing that in the back of the theater with the 13 inch riser. (to account for ear level being 13 inches higher)


The problem with the Celtic, is that it only comes in two colors, black and white. Right now, I'm mainly concerned with doing the side walls of the room. I want the side walls to either be a really dark red, or a burgandy type color. As far as I'm aware, the Celtic isn't available in any of those colors, so I'd have to go with one of the other options for the side walls.


I did request some samples from Dazian, a bunch of various samples, so I can get a better idea of how the colors actually look in real life, and the pattern on the fabric (or if it doesn't have any patern). I got samples of all three, the janus, exposure and celtic, in various colors that I'm considering.


I'll probably go with the Celtic for the screen wall, but the screen wall is actually a big issue unto itself. One problem that I have with the screen wall, is that I'm one of those guys that actually just uses a painted area for the screen. I have smooth walls in my garage, and I simply painted my screen with Behr Ultra Pure White paint. Then I painted all around it with a flat black. When most people think of a painted screen, they probably think that it would be less than ideal, but the picture quality I get from it is pretty outstanding. Most people that see my theater are amazed that it's just a painted on wall and not a screen costing thousands of dollars.


Of course, all of this was fine and dandy until I decided to re-do the theater and go with the whole fabric thing. Now, I'm wondering what exactly to do with the screen wall. If I put linacoustic everywhere except where the screen is, and then cover it with fabric and everything, then my screen is going to be recessed 1 inch. I'm not sure how that's going to look. I'm guessing up close it will look pretty dumb, but from the seating distances, in the dark, I'm sure nobody will actually notice that the screen itself is surrounded by this 1 inch thick black stuff all around it.


One guy mentioned that he put linacoustic everywhere on his screen wall, and then had a blackout cloth screen over the linacoustic. Of course, blackout cloths aren't acoustically transparent, so I'm not sure that doing something like that would be a good idea. I'd love to go with smx screen material or something like that, but I'm getting very close to running out of funds for this whole thing. I didn't build a false wall, and hide my speakers and all of that. I was thinking, maybe in a few years, if I get the itch to tweak things, I could go that route with a AT screen. So, I'm not at all sure what to do with the screen wall, but right now, I'm trying to just focus on figuring out the furring strips for the side walls and what and how much fabric to order and things like that.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1 /forum/post/12944896


Of course, all of this was fine and dandy until I decided to re-do the theater and go with the whole fabric thing. Now, I'm wondering what exactly to do with the screen wall. If I put linacoustic everywhere except where the screen is, and then cover it with fabric and everything, then my screen is going to be recessed 1 inch. I'm not sure how that's going to look. I'm guessing up close it will look pretty dumb, but from the seating distances, in the dark,

BritinVA might argue with you one that point. He used a painted wall and hid his speakers in a fabric front wall on a stage. It's a technique used quite often called shadowbox.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=britinva
My local Home Depot sells what they call 5/4 board. It is exactly 1" thick and comes in various widths. I purchased it for my home theater and just ripped pieces that were 1.5" wide.
Man, I wish our HD sells 5/4. I call every place around here including lumber yards and they have no clue what I can talking about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds /forum/post/12946610


Man, I wish our HD sells 5/4.

At my HD. they sell finger joined pine pre-primed exterior trim boards. They sell them standing on end (16 ft) and they come in 3 or 4 widths. If you read the label you will find that they are made in Chile.


They are a little thicker than 1 inch so you cut them into 1 inch strips.


If you have a table saw it's still cheaper to just cut 1 inch strips from 2x4s
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