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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HELLO!!!


Okay, I know this topic is pretty repetative; however, I wanna focus on just this issue. Connecting a PC for gaming and DVDs. I am planning on getting one of these ASAP, but I have read so much and wavered back and forth, that I cannot come up with an answer.


Samsung DLP 56"

Panny 50LC13

or

Philips 55 Lcos


Anyone have specific PC hook up info? Not only as far as picture by PC, but other issues as well. I have heard good things about the Samsung and Panny as far as PC picture goes. Not much at all about Philips Lcos being hooked up to a PC. However, guy at Tweeter said he saw one with a Laptop connected. I think he said they were running a feed to it from there. He really liked the picture; however, I have yet to see it myself. If I had to make my decision now, I would probably go with the Samsung, because of Picture(IMHO). However, I have yet to see a Panny really fired up to its true potential. I will make sure I get the 30 day deal, incase the problems are too much for me to deal with. Slightly worried about the reflections, rainbows(although I have yet to see any), clay faces (yet to see any), and girlfriend getting sick watching the picture. I am brave enough to :p believe I will be tough enough to fight back any nausea sp? over looking at a 56" screen. 9 feet away by the way :cool: But in case I am not, that is what the 30 day rule is for :D


So that is what I am thinking, what about you?


The reasons I ask in regard to PC, is that is my main joy. Games, websites, and DVDs through PC.


Any guidance, and unbiased(as much as possible) would be great!!!


This is relevant to the TVs and not just HTPC, so that is why I placed it here. I do not have any questions about HTPC just how the picture, ease of use, etc are by connecting a PC to these TVs. Okay, now I am trying to BS. :rolleyes:


Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Ever notice when people say things like "Immediate Help!!!", they don't get it. Anywhoo....


I'd get the panny, if you have any concerns over rainbows or the gf getting sick don't get the dlp. With the panny you get $1000 bucks in savings and you don't have to listen to your gf complain about the new tv everytime she sees it. The panny will eat all of the connections you need. Have Fun!
 

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Surfing the net on my tv was a priority for me also.

In fact, I wanted to be able to split screen w/ VGA and watch tV at same time.


The Panny 50" LCD is a good answer. It seems to be the most computer-friendly of all sets (2 VGA inputs).


The Panny manual says it can split screen the component, DVI, and VGA inputs. If I remember correctly, the Sammy can't do that--I vaguely remember some limitations w/ split screen on either DVI or VGA input.


You may want to check out those details before you decide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys!


Good point Psion. I should have said "Please Help!!!", but my immediate was by Thursday :D

-


Wow, two votes for the Panny.


AGHusker, have you not tried the DVI hookup for PC yet? I hear that is the way to go. It would be a good deal to have TV and PC at the same time. Currently with my HTPC TV I have another TV(13inch) for satellite when I am on the computer.


Here is an off topic question: When all TVs are sold, they go out in torch mode, and usually the settings are "OFF". Why? Why are the TVs sent out like this, why not have them all converged, or is it a thing that needs to be performed differently for each TV even if it is the same model? Anyway, that might be a stupid question, but just wondering that today.


Also, the Panny is cheaper. Spend the rest of the money on HD directv receiver.


Any more points?
 

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I won't have set until later this week (i hope by then). Can't comment on PC thru DVI. For an HTPC, DVI makes sense.


My PC doesn't play DVDs, so VGA is what I need.

DVI will be for DVD player, as soon as more models come out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would look into getting a DVD for your computer because the picture can be outstanding. I have my PC hooked up to my Monivision CRT and the picture is pretty good. Can't wait to see it on one of the TVs I have mentioned.


I need to see the Panny again. I have only seen one, and it looked washed out. I am almost positive it can be improved significantly, since I have more positive about this TV than most. (Except black levels). Heck if only the Hitachi had a VGA input. I guess it wouldn't matter all that much since I'm not even gonna connect my PC through the VGA.


Now a DVI switch is needed!!!


Great, add another Tv to the list.


What is the price on these puppies?
 

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DVI (and VGA) inputs into teh DLP are simply amazing. I could not believe how clear text looked while web browsing and how cool Unreal Tournament looked. I'd definitely vote for the DLP, as it seems made for hooking up a PC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Mike,


The tweaks may come in handy. However, it seems like Panny will be the most easy option to buy, since Sears looks to have the Panny at good prices. However, I would have to travel to TWEEEEEEETER to get the DLP 56"(2 hours away). Mike did you go with DVI for PC hookup?


I am in Northern VA this week and went by a mall (Sears) to check out the Panny again, and there it was, but there the signal was not. Hmmmm!!! So I spoke to the salesperson. However, he did not speak the Queen's English. Shouldn't that be a prerequisite for working? Especially when commissions are involved. Anyway, I never was able to see a feed running to it. Oh well. Maybe I will have more success in Richmond. :-\\


Although, thanks for the vote of confidence with the DLP, since that is really what I wanna try first.


Also, how is the overscan/underscan with the DVI PC hookup? Is this a dealkiller at all?
 

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Im getting the Philips LCoS for X-Boxing and DVDing.


Chas
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by charlie618
Does this set work w/shooting games?
I believe that light guns only work for CRT-based technology because AFAIK they rely on the delay between a v-sync and when the gun detects the electron beam hits the area of the screen it's on to determine where you've "shot" at. A somewhat more detailed explanation is here .
 

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DLP by far, because of two words: "burn in". Correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that DLP has no issues with burn-in, while most competition does have to worry about it.


I'm sure that as a serious gamer, you've experienced first hand of many gaming marathon (whether you like it or not... those Halo parties or marathon RPG sessions....)_


I'm not THAT much of a videophile, but IMHO I personally think that gaming graphics look best on the Sony 40XBR CRT model, with the Samsung DLP as second. Alas, the form factor of the DLP sold me.


I have no real complaints about the HLN507W model, although (understandably) my old-school games look like garbage on it... sigh... ah well. hooray to PC emulation! :-D
 

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I am currently using a 50" Sony XBR LCD (Click "gallery" at top of my post). It handles my Component Vid connections from the X-box and PS2 great! It is actually a loner from Tweeter until the Philips LCoS comes out.


I was originally planning on getting the Sammy DLP but I heard that the LCoS had better black representaion (not as muddy). From my understanding the LCoS will not suffer from burn-in either. As for the DVI, I dont know.


I will post some more pictures of my new 55" Philips LCoS as soon as its delivered!!!!


Cant wait for Halo 2 [insert homer drooling noise].


Chas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, burn in is a big issue with me.


EX: I played KOTOR for XBOX the first 20 hours out of 24 hours I had the game. Plasma and RPTVs would be in trouble.


DLP would work, and I think LCD is okay; however, I have heard mention of something(maybe not burnin) but something with a similar problem with the LCD. Not sure, but I read it on another post earlier this week.
 

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There is no burn-in with LCD RPTVs. Both DLP & LCD can have "stuck pixels." For the LCD, it would be a red, green, or blue dot that stays on or off permanently. For DLP, it would be a micro mirror permanently reflecting or not reflecting light at the screen. I don't think that either are due to burn-in (exposure-induced) but more a symptom of a semiconductor manufacturing flaw.
 

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I used the DVI input to connect my PC. Overscan is not an issue with the DLP. You can either use a mode called PC-Wide that will put a small black border around the PC screen, or you can play around with the resolution to get 1:1 mapping with no overscan using the regular Wide mode. Even at the default resolution I found that overscan was only about 3% on my DLP, which was liveable. Also, the PC-wide gave me a very, very nice picture, easily readable text. But, it wasn't 1:1 pixel mapping, so you can get an even better picture if you do a custom resolution from a PC.
 
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