[imscottr]

Like so many other threads... so mine starts too... "I've been lurking around here for... " "I've been asking some questions...." You know how it goes....

I can't thank you guys enough for posting your HT build's and answering all my questions. You guys have been absolutely great!!!


This all started when a co-worker buddy invited me to his house to see his dedicated HT. It was jaw dropping. He was a good sport and answered all my questions and let me watch Star Wars Episode I. He sold me an old 85" 4:3 screen for $100 to get me started (Thanks Chuck). I got a business projector for dirt cheap, and converted an extra bedroom into a 10x12 HT with no sound treatments, soundproofing, etc. I upgraded from a Sony HTIB to a Denon AVR1804 and AV123's ELT's. I didn't have the room to build a dedicated HT like I've been dreaming about sine I saw Chucks. So as our family grew, my wife and I sold our house and started shopping for a new one. I told my wife that I could live in a box, just as long as that box had a basement big enough for me to build a dedicated HT. And so it has begun!!


With purchasing a new house, money is flying out the window. Like so many other folks here, I'm on a strict budget. Cutting corners where I can, and clipping coupons as much as possible. I'm sure I'm breaking some rules here when it comes to soundproofing, but I'm doing what I can with the money I have.


The room is 13x24x8. Two walls are block, two aren't. As you can see in my first pictures, I've got a huge trunk to deal with. A 42" soffit is in order here. Not happy about that. Plus I have to deal with that part of the trunk coming from the furnace. I'm going to hate having that in my room.


As I stated above, I've been building up for this. I've got all my AV equipment. Now it's just about building the room.


Denon AVR1804

AV123 ELT CSE's for LF, RF, C

AV123 ELT Dipoles for Rears

SVS PC 20-39

Epson 720 Homeview

120" screen

Samsung 1400 BD

Oppo 980-H

Xbox 360


I've already started the framing, so I'll post updates as I can.


-Scott


P.S. I'm sure I speak for many when I say - Thanks to all those who have taken the time to post their builds. I've learned a lot just by reading them.




Blank Canvas!!!

A 42" Soffit!! This is going to be a pain!!

And that part of the trunk is going to have to be in my room!

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

Move it closer to the beam.

 

[oman321]

I'm all about breaking the rules

Might be a pain but like Big said you can try to move it closer and then somehow hide the bend you'll need in a column perhaps. Good luck, seems like a nice space.

 

[imscottr]

Thanks for the posts...


Never really thought about moving it closer to the beam. I'll look into that.


Thanks!

 

[Ted White]

Absolutely move closer if at all possible.

 

[imscottr]

Since I'm on a budget, I'm faced with some Soundproofing issues. My kids sleep two floors up, so it's somewhat of a concern. I've taken what measures I can to soundproof the room - decoupled three of the four walls from the ceiling using hat channel, no clips, and one inch from the existing exterior walls. One wall is decoupled from the i-beam using DC04 clips. Soffit and drywall will be decoupled from the ceiling too. I plan on using 5/8 Double Drywall all the way around, but only using Green Glue on the ceiling and soffits. (Stuff's just too expensive to go all the way around.)


1. - Since I didn't decouple one wall, will that totally defeat my efforts in soundproofing?


2. - If I can't move the trunk, but decouple the soffits, double 5/8 DW, and Green Glue, will that effect my soundproofing? (But the bottom part of the soffit will be attached to the wall that's attached to the i-beam)


Thanks!

Scott


P.S. Is it normal to lose sleep over this build?

 

[Ted White]

First it is expected to lose sleep. If you don't then you're not worried enough

How are you decoupling the ceiling and soffits?


Leaving a less than adequately treated surface doesn't totally defeat the project, but it sure doesn't help.


Insulate around that duct, but don't compress, since compressing will conduct vibration

 

[imscottr]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/14251941


First it is expected to lose sleep. If you don't then you're not worried enough

How are you decoupling the ceiling and soffits?


Leaving a less than adequately treated surface doesn't totally defeat the project, but it sure doesn't help.


Insulate around that duct, but don't compress, since compressing will conduct vibration

Thanks for the post Ted - I swear I think you live on this board. I've read more posts from you than anyone else. Not counting the PM's I've sent you!

Glad losing sleep is normal!


I'm decoupling the drywall from ceiling using Hat Channel, no clips. Screwing the Hat Channel to the floor joists. (Channel is running perpendicular to the floor joists.) Also using Hat Channel to decouple the soffit from the ceiling.


Thanks for the tip on the insulation around the trunk!

 

[BIGmouthinDC]

You know I looked at the pics some more and with a little plumbing work on the water heater and moving it a bit, it looks like the duct work could actually be relocated to the other side of the steel beam.

 

[mn_hokie]

Is that odd bend near the rear of the room? If so, have you considered running a wall on one side perpendicular to the main trunk and maybe building an equipment room there? This would allow you to keep a consistant height on both sides of it as well.


Just my 2 cents.

 

[Tedd]

I redid the HVAC. Totally worth it. And your's look pretty simple to do. Mine involved some major reconstruction of the floor joists and bracing.


My HVAC comes out under the support beam and runs up into the soffit too. I simply boxed it with GG/double drywall and it'll be tucked away, hidden from sight, in a column eventually.

 

[imscottr]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie /forum/post/14255173


Is that odd bend near the rear of the room? If so, have you considered running a wall on one side perpendicular to the main trunk and maybe building an equipment room there? This would allow you to keep a consistant height on both sides of it as well.


Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for your 2 cents - I appreciate the input.

Unfortunately, that odd bend is halfway up the left wall. My Dipoles will go about 18" behind it. If all goes as planned, the front row folk won't hit their head on it when they stand up.


I might see if i can move this some how.

 

[imscottr]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd /forum/post/14256038


I redid the HVAC. Totally worth it. And your's look pretty simple to do. Mine involved some major reconstruction of the floor joists and bracing.


My HVAC comes out under the support beam and runs up into the soffit too. I simply boxed it with GG/double drywall and it'll be tucked away, hidden from sight, in a column eventually.

Wow, reconstructing eh? That had to have been rough! Well, we'll see about moving it. I hope it's not going to be too much of a pain, or cost too much. Or I might have to kiss my budget goodbye.


And to think... all this to watch a movie. I'm starting to see the humor in all of this.

 

[Ted White]

Over the years I have found that more guys are willing to move plumbing or electrical than ducts. Having moved water supply, waste, electrical, gas and duct, I believe duct to be the easiest.


I also removed 25% of the ductwork in my build and re-routed. I'd do it all over again. Made things MUCH easier.

 

[imscottr]

But if I can't move the duct - I'll have to build a soffit. And a 42" soffit to boot! I wonder which will cost less to do. I wish I had some of your budgets'.

 

[Ted White]

Duct cost is low. And it gives you the opportunity to convert to flex.


In my opinion, the biggest factor is what you want the finished theater to look like and sound like. Do you want to look at a 42" soffit? Would you miror the soffit on the other side with a false soffit? If not, your sound balance will be off.


Much easier to do this now than later...

 

[imscottr]

Yea, the plan was to mirror the soffit on the other side to balance it all out. We'll see. I'll do some stuff this weekend and see what I can come up with.


Let the good times roll!!

 

[mn_hokie]

If you can't move it and are forced to build around it, I would try to replicate the same thing on the other side. I had a water meter issue (see my thread in my signature) that forced me to build a column around it. I ended up being a false column along the same wall to mimic is. I feel like this makes it less obvious now.

 

[imscottr]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie /forum/post/14259774


If you can't move it and are forced to build around it, I would try to replicate the same thing on the other side. I had a water meter issue (see my thread in my signature) that forced me to build a column around it. I ended up being a false column along the same wall to mimic is. I feel like this makes it less obvious now.

Yes, very nice! If I do have to build the soffit, I'll do the same. Nice to see an example.


Thanks for sharing!

 

[Tedd]

I got to start by ripping down the original wide soffit. I then had the sheet metal all redone, in a different profile. Getting a short length of cold air return tucked up into the joist cavity, so the main trunk could run up tight against the beam and central vac plumbing, made for a major floor joist revision and then rebracing the floor. A lot of work, and some expense, but worth it.


Compared to me, you have it easy.

It will be worth it. I know

And I did question the "worth it?" part, right until the second layer of drywall was up and all the work was done.


You can move that ductwork easily. You might even be able to tuck the ductwork a wee bit higher. Cut the ducts in the floor joist cavity with tin snips, and use flex later to recouple. I'd have those curved sections of sheet metal redone at a sheet metal place to give you a nice smooth S curve to the upper HVAC so as to not create turbulence.