[mstrplmer]

Hello All and thanks for the vast wealth of info/advice posted here in this D.I.Y Screen Section. I am looking to upgrade my current screen. So here a little back ground of what was and what is in place at the moment. I was one of the early adopters of the Ben Q PE7700. I was one of the lucky one's that had no problems to speak of(8+yrs one bulb replaced) until two weeks ago when i got the dreaded two red lights and then the projector shut down. I believe the fans finally went. Which led to my new Epson 3020. It helped that the WIFE also needed the projector for a presentation at her business the following evening.

Now to my screen: basement light controlled well used family cave PLEASE forgive the mess and keep in mind, it is a work in-progress. Plastered sheet-rock wall (smooth as a babies u no what) sits a 117" GOO Screen. i know it is a odd size but that's how it rolled out. The projector is 11'-06" from screen and seating is about the same give or take a few inches. So its out with the old and in with the new. So i have been following the RS-MaxxMudd V.2 Mix thread (since ihave so much time on my hands after row-tay-ta-cuff surgery) and am a little confused on which formula to use, also since the no-name HVLP sprayer is no longer in stock what would be a replacement brand/model? So any suggestions would maybe speed up my recovery time. i am sure i could some how incorporate the screen painting into my P.T. routine. Manny thanks in advance Mike

 

[mstrplmer]

Okay i found Graco 2900 & 3900 at Lowe's. The specs seem the same except the 3900 comes with extra 1.5mm tip and a one gal container also at 30.00 difference. Which MIX would be suitable for my screen. There are no roller marks so Will i still need to prime and sand my existing surface?

 

[MississippiMan]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mstrplmer  /t/1319717/the-official-rs-maxxmudd-v-2-mix/630#post_24424837

Still in search of some guidance in upgrading my viewing experience.


NEW projector is Epson 3020 11'-06" lens to 117" screen.

Found the Graco's 3900 SprayStation at the local Lowe's. Looks like it comes with 1.5mm tip and 1gal container.

Is the 1.5 mm tip small enough or should i get a 1.0 mm tip?


Get the 1.0 mm Tip. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Earlex-1-0-mm-04-in-Brass-Tip-and-HV3500-Needle-Kit-HVACV1/203391445?cm_mmc=sem|psocial|fbx|dynamic

For some time, the "No Name" HVLP (Graco 2900) was a unusually great bargain, with lots of sources...making the suggestion to spray both easy and economical. The additional expense of a 1.0 mm tip was no real financial hardship compared to the saving that came from producing a ultra smooth finish and a screen comparable to $2500-$3500+ Mfg. offerings. All that still applies with a HV-3900, I just lament the fact that the $49.00 specials seem to have lapsed at present.


I myself have been using the 1.0 mm Tip to great effect when also using the very thinned SF and RS-MM paints. Multiple light Duster Coats are truly "light" when such a fine tip is used, and one really knows when a proper dilution has been achieved simply by testing the mix on a sample board and when one gets a 10" tall spray pattern with a 1.0 mm tip....there you are.


However, the very "wetness" of any such loose, thinned Mix DEMANDS very light, multiple Duster coats, so that always must be taken as a sacred method of application.


A 1.5 mm tip can produce a very good finish as well, but both viscosity and Dusting technique have to merge very exactingly.


I have done Screens using the stock Graco 3.0 mm Tip, and that requires Duster spraying on 3 light coats, sanding, applying another 2 light Duster coats, examining the finish, and if needed, another light sanding followed by 1-2 light Dusters. The only issue being that a larger Tip produces larger paint droplets, and that will always result in a more textured surface.


With the 1.5 mm Tip, 3 light Dusters, a light sanding, and 2 Light Dusters can get'ter dun. Finer droplets...less work to achieve a smoother finish


Use a 1.0 mm Tip and if the Paint flow is right and quick light Dusters applied (5-6) no sanding is required and the finish as almost "Glass Smooth".


Any thoughts on the True Coat Pro 2?


Too expensive and not appropriate for producing ultra fine surfaces as it is only a "Airless Sprayer" not a true Airless HVLP

Thinking that the RS-MAXXMUDD V.2.1 is the way to go.


It is a good choice when a PJ has sufficient Contrast, and no serious ambient light is involved. Having extra Gain when watching 3D is always beneficial.

However since the Epson is already a bright PJ, and the ability to have Gray w/Gain exists ( re: additionally improved contrast on screen ), Silver Fire v2.5 2.0 is a natural "Next Step Up" to consider. That doubly applies when one takes into account that with a brighter PJ, and that gosh-durn White Tray Ceiling you have, improved on-screen contrast combined with Gain can & will help things out much more.

Have you ever seen or heard about Protostar's insert-able Black Tray Ceiling Panels? http://www.protostar.biz/flockboard.htm

Go to the link and scroll down until you see the "New" label


What would my prep be giving that i am going over a grey gooscreen?


i have no roller marks only slight orange peel

You do need to sand the surface smooth. If you spray over an observable texture, it will show through, and with any high contrast Paint, jump out and be very noticeable.


With Orange Peel, as you sand you'll see the Tops of the OP bumps get darker, and that helps judge how effective your smoothing process is going. Use a Medium Grit Large Sanding sponge (9" x 3" x 1") you can find in the Drywall Tools dept at Home Depot. Use long sweeping strokes and the technique as described in the post preceding yours. The using a Fine Grit Sponge (...get one of those too...), give the surface another go.


Priming is not absolutely required, but highly advisable because it will not only help smooth your surface, it also will help show you any remaining issues, and lastly, provide a bright, underlying Base that will conserve and re-introduce absorber projected light. Also, the thin translucency of the RS-MM ans SF paints can make extra coats be required to cover the mottled surface that will remain after sanding.


Rotator Cuff issues. eh? I know all about that! Too much really. I fell 14' and landed on my left shoulder all the way back in 1994 and blew my RC clean off the Bone. Managed to get it re-attached (...miraculously...) and spent a loooong time coming back from that. Still only have half my vertical lift strength, but I do have full flexibility and rotation without any pain. Even so, I'm awfully glad I spray using my Right Hand.

 

[mstrplmer]

My LEFT shoulder to, mine happened almost a year ago while wrestling a 24' ext ladder that almost got away from me(should have let it go) while attempting to access a roof. So silver fire v 2.5 2.0 is the best route to take, is that due to the white 2'x2' drop ceiling. would i stay with this if ceiling was darker? is my wall color dark enough? when priming the screen wall i would venture that spraying would be advised? which primer paint would be best to cover the grey? would that need to be diluted as well. this may be a opportunity to finally get rid of some of kilz / bullseye123 that seemz to appear out of nowhere

how much will this mix yield? why i ask is that i have a outdoor screen (110"BOC) and i was going to use that as my test dummie . practice makes perfect. oh will it stand up to the harsh NewEngland weather not that really important just thought i would ask. think i have reached my limit on ?'s THANKS A LOT MM

Well one more

am i to understand that formula for that would be


COLORANT COMPONENTS LIQUITEX BASICS

100 ml dist water for cleaning utensils then add to or mix with the colorants

50ml napthol crimsom red

25ml phthalocyanine green

14ml ultra marine blue

10ml cadmium yello deep hue

all above mixed together by itself as a whole


VISCOSITY COMPONENTS

24 - 36oz of dist water

16oz rustoleum's ultimate poly matte finish (water based)


REFLECTIVE BASE COMPONENTS

21oz rustoleum metallic accents white pearl

21oz Martha Stewart living metallic polished silver 343 560

10oz behr 1850 upw flat

1.75oz liquitex basics gold


mix the viscosity & reflective components together first, then the appropriate OZ. ( in my case 2.0 oz) amount of mixed colorant component

strain like hell and spray away

 

[mstrplmer]

Well i picked up a Graco 3900 from Loews, ordered my paints,sock strainers,squirrel cage mixer and a Earlex 1.0 brass tip on AMAZON. Now i just sit back and wait for the UPS truck.


MississippiMan or PB-Maxx what is the difference between the rustoleum poly and the minwax poly. Much like the kilz/ bullz-eye123 i seem to have a overabundant supply of minwax poly? Purely a informational question!!!

any input/comments on questions in post #4 from any-one who has been down the Windy DIY road will be greatly appreciated

 

[pb_maxxx]

1) and most important... rustoleum has a noticably flatter finish. removing sheen also removes the possibllity of warm or hottspotting... and gives a more even viewing cone.

2) rustoleum claims to have a more durable finish.

3) rustoleum cost 3 to 4 dollars less.

 

[mstrplmer]

PB thanks for the info. As for my OUT DOOR 110" BOC PRACTICE DUMMY. i was thinking of trying SF V2.5 5.0 so i could start watching just around dusk. Mostly viewing sports with the occasional movie. UNFORTUNATELY the cloth side is the option i choose when i set it up, so i have some work ahead of me i guess multi coats of primer with lite sanding along the way. I remember reading that 3oz H2o per quart bulls-eye 123 primer would be OK. is that about rite? like the majority i have no spraying experince!

But have plenty of confidence in my self and can follow directions pretty well

 

[pb_maxxx]

here's what u would do with bare canvas or the cloth side of blackout cloth.


the initial process is a little messy... so make sure you put plastic, canvas, or tarp under you screen...


do the following for the first 3 coats.


1) use a straight primer or white paint

2) roll on the coat with a standard roller... working fairly quickly...

3) use a W-I-D-E blade drywall blade to skim the entire screen... so you remove the paint from peaks of the canvas and push it into the valleys.

4) let dry.


next


roll on a couple of standard coats... obviously letting each coat dry.

sand with a wide 3M medium grit sanding sponge.


roll on a couple of standard coats... again drying between coats.

sand with a wide 3M fine grit sanding sponge.


and this point your canvas should be prepped to spray on SF... 4.0 or 5.0

 

[mstrplmer]

PB thanks for the info.


all my supplies have arrived finally


unfortunately the weather has not been cooperating


don't have the room to bring inside and safely prep the BOC TEST DUMMY


planned on doing it in place but


old man winter just wont give up


one day sunny and in the 50's

next teens and snowing.

Well that's New England for ya

MM suggested Silver Fire v 2.5 2.0 is the best route to take, for my inside application


due to the white 2'x2' drop ceiling. would i stay with this if ceiling was darker?


How will a 3D movie look with 2.0


Would i need to go with a darker mix?


going to be using the Graco 3900 with a 1.0 mm tip for both screens

 

[MississippiMan]

Yo.u need to use 2.0 regardless of what color your ceiling is, if 3D viewing is in the offing because of that selection offers the best compromise between enhanced contrast and the retention of gaIn

 

[mstrplmer]

MM thanks for the response


hope to be spraying soon


just wish the shoulder would loosen up a bit more so i could work over head


tough to hang plastic drop cloth with one good arm


ah but whose complaining, still can hoist a cold one or two

 

[mstrplmer]

Well i decided to upgrade the outside screen from 110" to 120".


figured the screen has been out there for two years


which has been the average life time for my screens


And if i am going to put this much time and work into it might as well start anew so...


I bought a 66" x 110" piece of BO cloth from Carls place.


Where this is out doors would i need to prime the smooth side first before spraying


or am i good to go as is