[tic-tac]

Just hoping that some of you who have mounted 42" and 50" 7UYs to a wall could share advice/info/photos of how and where you ran the wires through the wall and why.


Specifically:


- Did you cut one large hole for all of your cables and then bundle them together and run it through?

- How much vertically above the set's bottom edge did you cut the hole?


I figure that I'm going to run everything that can be connected to the set to avoid having to do much in the future, unless I'm changing a board out. This means:


1 DVI cable

1 RGB cable

3 separate BNCRCA cables for my component connection (they're each thick - broadcast-grade)

1 composite video cable (also broadcast-grade)

1 s-video cable

2 sets of RCA cables (just in that off, off chance that I hit the lottery and can afford to purchase those ridiculous side speakers for pure convenience )


That's a pretty thick bundle of cables. Power I'm running separately.


Any info appreciated!

 

[Brap]

Yeah, that's a lot of cables, but you pretty much have it covered. Why RCA's for the speakers? If you are running these as a center channel for your HT, all you need is speaker wire, unless the speakers themselves have RCA inputs. Just input your processor from your cable box and then speaker wire out??

 

[tic-tac]

Brap, the RCAs would be going from my A/V components to the RCA inputs on the back of the set for the 7UY's onboard amp (8w x 2) to drive sound to the optional side speakers if I ever purchased them. The only reason to do this would be so that if my fiancee/mom/dad/daughter ever came into the room and didn't know how to turn on the main sound system, they could just turn on the set itself and the cable box/DVD player/xbox and they're up and running.


I doubt I'll ever actually buy the speakers, though, as they are ludicrously expensive for what you're getting and I will probably just end up buying a smart remote with programmable macros so that whomever can just push "play xbox" or "watch cable" etc. and everything will come on like it's supposed to.


Actually, I think I just talked myself out of running those extra RCAs.

 

[Brap]

Tic-Tac,


I see what you were trying to do -- makes sense. May I suggest the Home Theatre Master 600 or 800 remote. I think I paid $249 and it's a RF and IR remote. I was able to run a great macro for all my components and it works really great. I press one button and the entire system comes on, sets the volume, goes to HGTV for the wifie and dims the lights too. Comes with the RF reciever and 8 RF to IR repeaters with about 12ft. of cord for each one. This was truly a great find and great WAF! Back lit too.


Good luck

 

[tic-tac]

Nice! I appreciate the tip. That sounds exactly like what I'm looking for. Now if I can just find these &$*% studs and then cut my cable holes...

 

[Kal Rubinson]

Here's the arrangement I used behind my Fujitsu P50:

 

[Mineral]

Kal,


That's a great looking box/cable connector plate. Very neat and tidy. Can you give us a product ID and/or source for the box? Looks just like what I need for my upcoming install.


Thanks

 

[Kal Rubinson]

 http://www.panamax.com/

 

[AccuView]

While I like the elegance of the solution, I wonder if there is any weight to the suggestion to keep the number of connections in a line to a minimum. In this case, you are introducing an extra connection between the source and the destination. What do you think Kal?

 

[Kal Rubinson]

I did think of that and I ran 3 sets of component leads, one of which was direct bypassing any connections in the wall or boxes. In comparison to the component connections via the Panamax box, I could detect no difference by eye.


Unfortunately, I now have to draw another cable through as I am replacing the set with a new one that has HDMI!


Kal

 

[Rayon]

What's special about this panamax that makes it better than installing regular gang boxes for the power outlet? Does it come with conduits to run the wires/cables to the bottom of the wall?


EDIT: I guess I just found the answer to my own question: power surge protection. Anything else?

 

[72Anthony]

Rayon,


I think another advantage is the connectors are recessed into the wall, allowing you to more easily have the panel flat against the wall.

 

[Gooddoc]

I hung my Panasonic 50HD7UY on a 2*4 stud wall. I ran a completely separate clock outlet (it's recessed), and a 2" PVC conduit for my AV cables. It's a cheap professional looking solution and is easy to add new wires as needed. I'll post Pics/details on materials if you're interested when I get home tonight from work.

 

[ebm]

I went for the semi-ghetto approach but it works. The hole I have from TV on wall is about 3-4 feet above the hole coming out into the cabinet. I fished a piece of galvanized wire down and moved it around until my daughter could grab it. Then I put all of the wires I was running (only 1 component and 2 composites) together, covered them with a plastic bag, and wound them tightly with the wire. Then I pulled the wire through until the bag came out (bag keeps everything clean). Then I put $.99 Leviton white plastic gang plates for light switches (with a 1" x 2" rectangular opening in the middle) over the holes with the wires coming out.


Hook up and mount TV and you are done

 

[billd]

Gooddoc and ebm



PLEASE POST YOUR PICS!


I'm looking to do the same type of approach and I believe it will work well. I'm looking to change my "conceptual vision" into "concrete reality" so I'm eagerly awaiting your pics to help me on my way.


THANKS!

 

[krugcab]

yes, I would like to see these pics as well...my 1st post...great place

 

[squidd99]

The only thing I can think of to add to the above discussion is that, in my experience in fishing lots of cable over lots of years in lots of houses (phone lines, B&O system cables, HDTV, RF, speakers, etc., etc.) is the advice to always run an extra "fish" line along with the cables you will be using.


Some time in the future you will want to add a new line or a new kind of cable, or a new something else that hasn't even been invented yet. You don't know it now, but sometime you will want to add (or replace) something, and having an extra wire or string or cable there so you can attach your new cable and pull it through may save you hours of messing around in the future.


And if you don't ever use it, you really didn't waste any time adding it to the original bundle.


Insurance.

 

[90c4]

My approach was similar to ebm's, and equally ghetto. I used a doorknob drillbit to drill a large hole, ran my wires, and plugged the hole with one of those big desk grommets that you run monitor cables through. Cheap, easy, and clean (though not to code, if running your AC cable of course).
http://www.sharemation.com/gastwirt/..._extended.JPG/

 

[Rayon]

Yes, yes, please post your pictures. I do need some guidance as to how to do this and pictures are a good way to see how people are solving this problem.


Thank you,

Bruno.

 

[billd]

90c4 that doesn't look too ghetto to me! i'll try something very similar.


can you be more specific where you found this "desk grommet"?


I've been thinking of something like that in my head but i can't figure out specifically what I need to order. THANKS.