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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need to locate in wall equipment rack system that will have access behind the wall . Want the front to look great in the room so looking for non industrial type. Any suggested manufacturers or where to look?


thanks,

Bart
 

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Build your own, I did. You will find pics of the rack at my link below.

Jim Mc


THE EQUIPMENT RACK

The rack is a basic carpentry project. The walls were framed using 2x4 construction and a 62â€H x 21â€W opening was framed 6†off the floor. I then built two sidewalls 14†back from the main wall at 90 degree. This is like building a closet but with no back. The rear of this rack is accessible from a closet whose door is in the adjoining bar area. The closet basically built to access the rear of the gear and an even more hidden mechanical area in an inner sealed and insulated room is painted black so no wires show through the rack from reflected light. The closet was also built with one wall at 45 degree to reduce resonance. A base was then built inside the cabinet at the 6†level. The theater floor is raised so it appears less than 6â€. This base must be level and the walls straight and plumb. A top was framed at 68†from the floor. The interior of the cabinet was a simple box of MDF, medium density fiberboard. MDF is smooth and paints well. If you look at my Lobby pics the Marquee is all built using MDF. The edges are hard to get smooth but the flat surface is like glass. The box measured 62â€tall x 21â€wide x 18†deep on the outside of the box. The box was made out of ½†MDF if you use ¾†MDF you will need to reduce the shelf widths by a ½â€. (Note: Be sure all of your gear will fit in the box size you plan. Check widths, depth and total height. Add the gear heights plus 2†minimum per piece for shelf and air space more for amps. Also factor in a slight fudge factor for getting the support into the right slot on the shelf standard. As you can see I placed 10 pieces of gear into this rack.) The left and right sides each had 2 vertical channels routed in them one 3†from the front and the other 2†from the back. The channels were 5/8†wide x 3/16†deep and ran the 62†height; use the shelf standards you buy as the guide here. I am talking about the shelf standards with short horizontal slots every inch that use the ¾ x ¾ flat tabs sticking out. If you don’t know what I am talking about the people in the Depot cabinet area will. The box was assembled using biscuit joinery but that was by choice not necessity. The box was slid into the opening for which it was built. The MDF box’s front edge was even with the wall’s drywall face. Behind each channel back up framing was in place, a 2x4. Then the regular Home Depot brass shelf standards were inserted into the routed channels and secured with screws every 6â€. I made shelves from ¾†MDF and rolled the front and back edge by making a top and bottom pass on a router table. I made most of the shelves 19 7/8†x 17†and a couple of extras 19 7/8†x 19 7/8†just in case I bought something deeper later. All of the MDF was painted with a sealer, and three coats of gloss black enamel don’t use flat. The flat black shows every mark is impossible to clean and will not hold up. The gloss black in this area has not been an issue. The shelves were placed about an inch back from the face of the box. Our theater walls are carpeted. The carpet is put up with wallpaper adhesive and covers all the walls. It runs past the drywall and onto the edge of the MDF box. I then placed a ¾†by ¾†outside corner molding over the carpet edge and MDF to give a clean finish. I tested window casing but it looked way out of scale and did not provide the same finished look as the ¾ outside corner molding. This is the molding visible in the photo.

Well that’s it. I hope the directions are helpful, as it’s pretty basic. I spent maybe $50 total to build this rack.
 

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Bart,

I can echo Jim's recommendation on this, I built mine using the same materials and the results were fantastic. On the edges of the MDF you can use self adhesive black laminate and stick on, this will give the shelving a very clean and professional look, the enamel paint also makes it easier to dust off.


if you need pictures drop an email and I'll send them out.
 

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Jim,


Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have framed out the opening for my equipment rack and was trying to figure out how to finish it off. Great info!


Darren
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Jim Mc
The left and right sides each had 2 vertical channels routed in them one 3†from the front and the other 2†from the back. The channels were 5/8†wide x 3/16†deep and ran the 62†height; use the shelf standards you buy as the guide here. I am talking about the shelf standards with short horizontal slots every inch that use the ¾ x ¾ flat tabs sticking out. If you don’t know what I am talking about the people in the Depot cabinet area will.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdet...ID=44&CATID=15


You mean these? I went to HD and they said they didn't have them and recommended these guys.
 

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the in wall component rack of mine was created getting two shelving boards from home depot which was already predrilled with equal spacing holes and was about 12 ft in lenght. This was cut to length and attached to either side of the walls. For shelves boad was cut to size and used pins to anchor these planks.


the picture - photos.yahoo.com/ajoy_1


ajoy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jim Mc,


Thanks for the instruction on building my own. I will check out the materials and some of the other ideas suggested. Your pics were great and gave me some other ideas .


Bart K
 

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Bart,


If you don't want to build your own (probably not the popular answer in the Construction forum :) ), you might want to look at the racks from Middle Atlantic, typically sold at Pro Audio stores like Musician's Friend ( www.musiciansfriend.com ). They sell a 20 space rack unit that comes with rack rails for around $100. Smarthome.com is another source for these.


I framed a space in my wall to accommodate one of these racks and just slid it in and then lined the front with molding.


Good luck.
 

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Bart, I had mine custom built and I finished and installed myself.....Check out my construction photos of my new Basement HT below:
 

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I went by my Local Lowes, and they only had the white melamine, not black. BUT, they did have some of the Melamine laminate that you iron on or glue on. Has anybody tried this? It would be relatively cheap to use pressboard and use this glue on/iron on laminate to achieve the desired color. They sell the stuff in about 16 different colors and grains.
 

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Robert-

I had the same problem with my Lowe's. Since I was impatient, I bought the white and painted it with black spray paint. The paint doesn't adhere super well, but well enough. For the first day or two after I painted, I couldscratch it off with a fingernail, but since then it's been OK and has adhered very well. Also, if you're careful when you place equipment and don't slide it too much, you'll have no problems

I also used a black Sharpie marker to color any small paint chips that developed during final construction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quote:
Originally posted by bloomis914
Bart, I had mine custom built and I finished and installed myself.....Check out my construction photos of my new Basement HT below:
Thanks for the pics. I want the same look. Did you go to a cabinet maker and have it made to your demisions?


Bart
 

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My requirements were it had to match existing wood work and "Look-and-feel" of my craftsman style home. As well I wanted easy access via pull-out shelves. I plan to add a smoke glass door and I do have one more shelf to insert into the rack.


I used Plywood and 3/4" particle board for construction and it is painted with a high gloss enamel to match my other wood work and cabinetry in the house. The shelves have a high-grade pine frame and ride on Accuride slides that are also white.


This was my first wood working project and I think it looks great. I have since organized the components better and the wires are not visible. The cabinet is mounted in the wall on a pedestal base that is screwed into the subfloor. The cabinet (if I recall correctly) is 48" tall, 24" wide (with trim I'm at 19.5" for components which is rack spacing so in the future I could replace the shelves with a rack system). It goes 30" into the wall yet the shelves are only 24" deep to allow for wiring.
 
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