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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Heres how im thinking to do the ceiling in the basement.

Pink fiberglass insulation betewn the joits
Resilient chanels
5/8 Sheetrock

Now for lighting, will have 6 Halo IC recessed cans. Now these attach to the joist so would it defeat the purpuse or the resilient channel?

What to do?
 

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Many on here do not use resilient channel because it is very easy to short out your soundproofing efforts. You will want to use clips and hat channel instead. You can't attach the lights to the joists unless you use some type of bracket to decouple it. You can do that or have it lay on the drywall. Your lights will defeat your soundproofing efforts unless you create backer boxes for them to address the 6" holes. I'd advise you read all the articles found at the following link before doing anything: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/
 

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is resilient channel pretty effective if care is taken during installation to avoid driving a screw into a joist?
It can (maybe) be effective (not as much), but there is no standard for resilient channel as specified by SSMA. This means there is no standard for it's use in construction and one resilient channel varies from the next. I would stick with clips / hat channel. There are stores online you can get clips for a good price.
 

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Recessed lighting installation

So I will be using the more economical clips (Resilmount A237) that do not have the rubber washer, along with 7/8" hat channel. A few questions: 1) Should I add a generic rubber washer (1/8" thick) between the joist and clip, and will this help/harm? 2) The recessed cans will extend an inch or two but not to the depth of the clips, channel, and DD +GG. So what is the correct way to mount. 3) I am building boxes out of 5/4" MDF to cover the lights (IC & airtight), will the recessed housings hold the weight if they sit on top of the drywall? 4) Should I build the same boxes for the 4 in-ceiling Atmos/DTS:X speakers or will this hurt the sound?
 

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Every experienced HT builder that I've seen discuss the topic has said to avoid resilient channel like the plague. Aside from the difficult in installing them perfectly there have been several lawsuits over resilient channel failing structurally as well as acoustically and there are apparently no consistent standards to which they are built so it's hard to know the actual sound isolating performance of any given product.

Use the A237 clips and 7/8" hat channel like everyone else and you're good to go. The consensus on adding a rubber washer is that it is unlikely to hurt but also unlikely to make a significant difference as even the substantial rubber isolation built into the more expensive clips only provides an incremental benefit.

The purpose of backer boxes is to prevent sound leakage so they are much more important for speakers than for lights. Just make sure you use a sufficient volume to not compromise the performance of the speakers. For example, RSL recommends a 1 cu ft enclosure for their C34E speaker for the speaker to perform according to its published specifications. I'm only using a 1/2 cu ft enclosure for mine though because I will be crossing them over at 80Hz and have already tested them in an enclosure that size to verify that they can perform adequately down to that frequency.

The light enclosures may be light enough to be supported by the ceiling. The speaker enclosures will not be. In either case the best practice is to either secure them to the hat channel or to use isolating clips like the IB-3 to secure them to your ceiling joists.

Some good discussion on backer boxes with photos:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d.../1429855-soundproof-recessed-light-boxes.html
 
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