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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What type of wire would I run for an infrared repeater?


Will I need multiple repeaters for multiple devices?


Anyone have product suggestions for an infrared repeater. The longest distance to the repeater will be 20ft so range is not an issue.
 

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What do you mean by repeater? Basically you have IR sensors, blasters and connecting blocks. You can typically run IR blasters a long distance (even by splicing one onto a cat5 cable) without issue.


So, basically, you have IR sensors wherever you want to point your remote, that goes to a connecting block where a bunch of blasters are connected to the actual equipment being controlled.


I have only used Xantech for IR but I am guessing others can point out lower cost products that worked fine for them. As always I would say, if you can afford RF, do that



Curt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, all my epqt is going in a completely enclosed closet and I don't feel like pointing the remote into it with the door open to get it to do what I want.


My idea is to have a IR reciever to catch the beam, then relay it to a IR generator inside the closet(I don't know what the products are specifically called). I also want to know what wire will need to be run so I can run it before I drywall.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crackyflipside /forum/post/0


Ok, all my epqt is going in a completely enclosed closet and I don't feel like pointing the remote into it with the door open to get it to do what I want.


My idea is to have a IR reciever to catch the beam, then relay it to a IR generator inside the closet(I don't know what the products are specifically called). I also want to know what wire will need to be run so I can run it before I drywall.

I'm shopping as well. It looks like you can buy complete solutions, but the basic components are:


a) an infrared sensor (front of the room, embedded in a wall, whatever).

b) wire to a powered controller box. Takes the IR sensor signal, amplifies it, and sends it to one or more ->

c) infrared LED 'blaster'. You wire one or more of these up to your box and place them in range of each piece of equipment.


Do me a favor, once you figure out what you are getting, please report back here what and why. I'm getting ready to do the same thing, so any research would be helpful.
 

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Guys.


All you need is a IR repeater, mounted where you want to aim your remote. Mine is in the front of the room over the screen.


From that location - run cat 5 wire to the closet (location) where the electronics are. There you will put a IR Block. They usually have a power wire that connects to them.


From the block - you plug in your flashers (blasters).


I used Buffalo Electronics in my theater and am very happy with the results.


Here is what I have:

Repeater Eye


From the eye to the equipment I ran Cat 5 cable to a

IR Block which needs a power cord


Then from the block you need 4 flashers


You can do more complex IR networks but this is a basic system and just look at the PDF guides and they can help you if you want to get more complex.


Good luck and happy IR'ing!
 

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There are two basic solutions for your situation.


The first solution is what's in your head. A sensor (that's where you point your remote at), connector block (where the signal is collected and repeated) and the blasters (that finally get the IR signal to the components). This is the solution that I use. I have a NILES system ( MSU480 ) with a big connector block, enough for 3 different sensors (inputs) and 8 single blasters. The wires from the sensor to the connector block can be very easily extended with CAT5 cable. In fact, that's what the manual tells you to do. As for the blasters, all but one of the blasters are directly connected to the connector block. The one for my projector is extended with a cable from Radio Shack, so that I didn't have splice that wire. I could've, but didn't want to. I spent about $430 ($280 for the connector block, $100 for the sensor, and $50 ($10 x 5) for the blasters.


The second solution is to get remote control system that has RF. There is still a connector block and blasters, but the sensors are replaced by RF. The RF remote will send a RF through walls to the RF connector block and that will transform the RF signal to an IR signal and use blasters to get the signal to your components.


There are two major advantages to using RF. The first and foremost the bestis that you don't have to hold the remote in a certain direction. The signal will always find it way. This is especially good for long macros, i.e. Turn on the projector, turn on the receiver, switch to DVD on the receiver, turn on the DVD, etc. The second is that it doesn't require any sensor, so you don't have to run wires, splice wires, or have a sensor near your screen.


Sorry for the long wind, but I was in your shoes a year ago and I wish I had someone explain this to me.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by crackyflipside /forum/post/0


Ok, all my epqt is going in a completely enclosed closet and I don't feel like pointing the remote into it with the door open to get it to do what I want.


My idea is to have a IR reciever to catch the beam, then relay it to a IR generator inside the closet(I don't know what the products are specifically called). I also want to know what wire will need to be run so I can run it before I drywall.

The simplest wire to run is Cat5e ethernet cable. It has enough wires for the receiver.


My system is somewhat similar, although implemented a little differently. My IR receiver 'catches' IR from my remote and transmits it to the external component room, where a USB-UIRT IR transceiver picks it up. The USB-UIRT is connected to my HTPC, which is also running a software package called Girder . Girder interprets the signal it received and runs a custom sequence of operations to control whichever components I want controlled. This sequence can be via IR (out the USB-UIRT, which broadcasts it through the component room), serial (for direct control of the projector and amp), or via X10 (to dim the theater lights, for example).


It works pretty well and allows one button control of most of the theater and basement functions (lighting, fan control, HTPC, HD-DVD, multizone music, etc.).


-drin
 

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How exactly are you connecting the cat5e to the reciever cable? My reciever has an RCA end that connects into the connecting block. Do I just cut the recievers wire and strip it back and twist it together with the cat5e? Soldering? Does anyone have some pictures of this process?


I want to make sure I have a good idea about the process before I start cutting the receiver/emitter cables. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd /forum/post/11394618


How exactly are you connecting the cat5e to the reciever cable? My reciever has an RCA end that connects into the connecting block. Do I just cut the recievers wire and strip it back and twist it together with the cat5e? Soldering? Does anyone have some pictures of this process?


I want to make sure I have a good idea about the process before I start cutting the receiver/emitter cables. Thanks.

No the cat5 runs to a box in the equipment closet which then runs to emitting devices that attach to the IR sensor on the front of your receiver.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbgonzomd /forum/post/11394618


How exactly are you connecting the cat5e to the reciever cable? My reciever has an RCA end that connects into the connecting block. Do I just cut the recievers wire and strip it back and twist it together with the cat5e? Soldering? Does anyone have some pictures of this process?

You can solder but I don't think that is necessary. You said RCA, are you sure it is not 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo? If your cat5 cable is unterminated (no jacks on each end) then the easiest thing that does not require special tools is to use phone splice connectors - just push the wires in, and squeeze with pliers. Link: http://www.phonegeeks.com/urconfor2or3.html available to HD and Lowes.


My cat5 runs are terminated with RJ45 jacks. I took a headphone extension cable, cut it in half, and crimped RJ45 connectors on to the two cut ends - just cut the jacket back about 1/2" and crimp the three small wires onto the RJ45 - as long as you match the wire colors to the pin positions, it works great, and no need to cut the actual transmitter wire.
 

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Thanks, that looks like a great solution for a good price. If you get it installed soon let us know what you think. I might try to get this on my Christmas list (what I've been reduced to now that the theater budget is gone
).


Mike
 

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I use these.

Can't beat the price, works like a charm.

All you have in the Theater is a black pyrmaid plugged into any AC outlet....they're black so they disappear.

Why not have all your electronics on the cool side of the basement ?
 

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OK guys,

I went home at lunch and cut my reciever cord. This is what it looks like:




It is sort of like a mini RG-6. So...I guess I connect one of the twisted pairs of the cat5 to the frayed stuff and one of the twisted pairs to the central wire??? Am I making this more complicated than it needs to be
? Fortunately I can buy a new receiver if I have completely screwed this one up by cutting it.


Thanks for the suggestion Plasma. I plan on getting a RF remote that will do what the pyramids do, but some things (my graphic eye) are still going to need an way to get an IR signal to it. I anticipated that this IR repeater would be part of the solution.
 

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Gonzo,


You have exactly the same IR as me, I recollect being mentioned splicing can cause problems......a bit late for you but this is what I did.


I ran RG6 between the Equip Rm and Front Screen, terminated with F-Males at each end......then used a F-Female to RCA Male in Equip Rm to connect to the Emitter Box and a F-Female to RCA Female to connect to the IR Eye.


Cheers,

Mark
 
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