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Quote:
Originally Posted by frito /forum/post/18282488


no 52" sizes


55" LG's often use an IPS panel like the 55LH90

I need a 52"er. 55" is too big for my cabinet.


I don't see how anyone can stand the haloing around fast moving objects on any of the locally dimming LED. I checked out a few sets and could see it instantly...like a halo of random garbled pixels an entire inch all around fast moving objects!


What's up with the edge lit LEDs? Do they have any downfalls not inherent to the backlit systems?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi Def Fan /forum/post/18287611


I don't see it as lack of motivation to not want to go out and buy a camera capable of lag testing. Photography even on a casual scale can get expensive, time consuming, and obsessive. Lots of people aren't into it.


It would be nice were there easier methods of testing for lag, like a program that doesn't even require two displays and just measures the ms latency between a key or button pressed and the reaction onscreen.


Something that runs in the background of a game like Fraps. I'd rather buy a prog like that at say $20-$30 than buy a camera when I have no interest in photography whatsoever.


Yep, exactly. It's just too difficult to have an "easy" lag test. Too few people will do it. That's why I liked the RB auto test (before I decided it's inaccurate), it's easy. I spent $120 on it though, 70 for the guitar and 50 game, just to test lag. Luckily I was able to return the guitar for 70.


Frito said you can use any camera, if so that helps a lot, but even now I often wonder how accurate results are there are just such an insane number of variables, such as just a few posts ago, the discovery of lag on different ports when using different outputs. Nobody knew about that before and many results could be tainted, etc etc. This could even be something that varies by driver revision and countless other factors.


You also ideally need a 1080P CRT, which nobody has anymore...and even fewer will have going forward.


Anyways personally, I'm kind of giving up, if I cant tell the lag, then I'm gonna leave it be. I say just go with a set recommended in this thread if you care, and then forget about it you'll only drive yourself crazy.


Anyways all that said, I saw a assumedly older 40" Sharp Aqous model (no model number was on the card) at Sears for 699. Thinking of returning my Phillips for it, I have about 2 days left to decide before my return window on the Phillips is up. It's advertised as having vyper drive. I noticed Sears is calling out game modes on their price cards as a positive feature (aka "this set has a game mode for fast gaming response!") and the like. Interesting as I dont see Wally World and Best Buy doing that. Maybe a future trend.
 
Discussion starter · #446 ·
sweet, also please tell us what all the various picture settings as well as what resolution you tested it at etc.


oh and one last thing look on the left side of the back of the TV there is a small label and the last box on the label will tell us what panel is in that TV it will say AA01 SQ01 etc.
 
Discussion starter · #448 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkGSR /forum/post/18292296


Sorry, it's SQ01.


Resolution on the TV was 1680X1050 @ 60Hz. I'm a 16:10 kinda guy.

Resolution on the monitor...can't remember


Pic settings from camera or LED?

both would be great
 
Discussion starter · #450 ·
wondras video card port delay is normal your card is pretty fast at only 4 ms but some have shown as much as 16 ms delay in clone mode, in the main post i cover this in the testing instructions.



in regards to SMTT your reading it incorrectly


how it works and why its so accurate vs other timers is that every single timer is in sync within the program (they show the same reading at the same time) but V-Sync is disabled and actual frame rates are very high so as your display refreshes from top to bottom the timers continue to advance. the result is timers will increase as you go from the top of the screen to the bottom of the screen and you can always see where the oldest number and newest numbers meet is where oldest updated number and newest updated numbers are all the ones before the latest number are meaningless


no two displays will be in sync with the update scan so you must take the highest numerical numbers you can make out and compare those two to get the correct lag reading, this is why it has so many timers down the sides of the screen to get the most accurate figure removing the 16ms +/- error due whole single frame refreshes out of the equation completely as long as your framerate in SMTT is over 1000 fps
 
Discussion starter · #451 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkGSR /forum/post/18293167


Camera was just 10M, ISO800, and auto flash

LED, just standard setting on HDMI/DVI 1 labeled PC with and without LED Motion Plus on.

ah ok very good, what about shutter speeds?



looks like samsung may have fixed the special PC mode, when your testing other modes make sure to take it out of PC mode because PC mode overrides most settings on samsungs
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by frito /forum/post/18293710


ah ok very good, what about shutter speeds?



looks like samsung may have fixed the special PC mode, when your testing other modes make sure to take it out of PC mode because PC mode overrides most settings on samsungs


Didn't adjust shutter speed, had that on auto. Pics were taken with... Samsung TL225
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by frito /forum/post/18293548


wondras video card port delay is normal your card is pretty fast at only 4 ms but some have shown as much as 16 ms delay in clone mode, in the main post i cover this in the testing instructions.

Yeah, it's definitely not unusual. The fact that it only occurred with mixed VGA/DVI interfaces was the surprise.

Quote:
in regards to SMTT your reading it incorrectly


how it works and why its so accurate vs other timers is that every single timer is in sync within the program (they show the same reading at the same time) but V-Sync is disabled and actual frame rates are very high so as your display refreshes from top to bottom the timers continue to advance. the result is timers will increase as you go from the top of the screen to the bottom of the screen and you can always see where the oldest number and newest numbers meet is where oldest updated number and newest updated numbers are all the ones before the latest number are meaningless

It's not that I'm reading it incorrectly, it's that I'm looking for something different.


Since a given pixel on a 60Hz display is drawn every 17ms, the timer value should increase by that amount between frames. When you look at just one monitor in any SMTT picture, if a row has a ghost image from the previous frame, the time difference is always 17ms.


What I'm saying is that if the two monitor outputs are exactly synchronized, i.e., each pixel is created at exactly the same time for both screens, the number being displayed on a specific row will be the same for both outputs. The delayed values will be a multiple of 17 behind, just as for the previous frame on the single screen. If the difference is not a multiple of 17, then the outputs are not being created in sync, so you know you have a delay between ports. In my case the differences were about 20, indicating a 3-4ms delay.


This is different from measuring the actual input lag, where as you say, you look for the highest number on each screen, regardless of which row it's on. Since they are usually on different rows, the difference won't be a multiple of 17.
 
Turned Game Mode On for abit with CoDmw2, amazing. Strong improvement over B series. I never once found myself yelling and cussing about how I knifed first or I shot first or was around a corner. Impressive.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkGSR /forum/post/18294075


Turned Game Mode On for abit with CoDmw2, amazing. Strong improvement over B series. I never once found myself yelling and cussing about how I knifed first or I shot first or was around a corner. Impressive.

Well now, that *is* encouraging! How's the motion blur in game mode?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by frito /forum/post/18293548


in regards to SMTT your reading it incorrectly


...


no two displays will be in sync with the update scan so you must take the highest numerical numbers you can make out and compare those two to get the correct lag reading, this is why it has so many timers down the sides of the screen to get the most accurate figure removing the 16ms +/- error due whole single frame refreshes out of the equation completely as long as your framerate in SMTT is over 1000 fps

Gah, I've been doing some testing on my Vizio SV472XVT and apparently I've also been using SMTT wrong. I was taking the differences between each set of numbers and averaging them to try and smooth out the refresh rate problems. So if the top lines on each screen had a difference of 70ms, the middle lines had a difference of 65ms, and the bottom lines had a difference of 50ms, then I was averaging that out to 61.67. But if I understand what you're saying correctly, I should just take the highest number from each screen regardless of where that number shows up on the screen, and compare those?


If so that's good news, it should mean my TV's input lag should be better than what I originally though. I'll have to re-run the numbers.


My framerate was only about 600 though. How much is that going to throw things off?
 
Discussion starter · #459 ·
you want to have a framerate over 1000 to get the most accurate results possible, 600 will still yield more accurate results than using a flash based timer that runs locked at 60 fps due to v-sync so your results are still better than doing it that way
Image
 
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