[DS-21]

Does anyone have a good technique for mounting and installing heavy drivers, especially in flush baffles?


What I did with my Ava18 and Maelstrom-X was to use a washer under the plastic trim ring on the outside to get four of the screws to protrude most of the way. Then I lined the tips of those screws in the holes and let the woofer drop Still ended up crushing a fingernail the first time, but the second time it worked better.


Any better ideas that preferably don't involve much work?

 

[Kanaris]

I use a hook tool ..just be very careful to keep it away from the foam surround. I place it in one of the screw holes and lower in... or to remove I do the same.

 

[KyleLee]



Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-21 /forum/post/14247854


Does anyone have a good technique for mounting and installing heavy drivers, especially in flush baffles?


What I did with my Ava18 and Maelstrom-X was to use a nut under the plastic trim ring on the outside to get four of the screws to protrude most of the way. Then I lined the tips of those screws in the holes and let the woofer drop Still ended up crushing a fingernail the first time, but the second time it worked better.


Any better ideas that preferably don't involve much work?

design a door on the box, the bottom works well for this.


you can use that to hold the driver from the other side.

 

[Willd]

I am glad you asked this, DS-21. I have been wondering the same for a little while. Mounting my TC-2K the hard way was rough. I'd rather find an easier way. The hook method looks like a good way.


What about two wires, each looped through two of the mounting holes, so you can drop it in to place and then pull the wire out.

 

[michael hurd]

Guys... the easiest way I have found is to put the driver in with it vertical... not horizontal. The rebate should hold the driver in place no problem.


You can make studs out of machine bolts and a dremel.... cut the head off and a notch in the top for a standard screwdriver... thread a few into the t-nuts and use them as alignment pins. When setting the driver in place, line up the bottom with the top tipped out a tad... and place one hand on the bottom of the frame, then let go of the top.


The driver will sit nicely in place, allowing you to install your machine screws. ( you could also do this trick if you use wood screws... )


No pinched fingers that way.

 

[DS-21]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris /forum/post/14248685


I use a hook tool ..just be very careful to keep it away from the foam surround. I place it in one of the screw holes and lower in... or to remove I do the same.

I see how that would make insertion and removal easier, but I'm not quite sure how it would help with aligning the screw holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd /forum/post/14248744


I am glad you asked this, DS-21.

Thank the 21" woofer thread, which got me thinking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd /forum/post/14248744


What about two wires, each looped through two of the mounting holes, so you can drop it in to place and then pull the wire out.

I really like that idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michael hurd /forum/post/14248863


Guys... the easiest way I have found is to put the driver in with it vertical... not horizontal. The rebate should hold the driver in place no problem.

Interesting, hadn't thought of that.


Kyle's idea is interesting, too, for new boxes.

 

[Kanaris]

No matter what you do.. if you are removing the driver you have to use a hook tool to lift it..if you use a flat screwdriver..you can damage the edge of the sub box or bend the rim of the driver.... aligning it is no biggy just use a small Phillips head screwdriver and poke it through, if one hole is aligned then they all are.. no magic.

 

[TheEAR]

I use my patented technique. JL supplied non slip gloves,and drop the driver in gently.Then scream "OUCH DAMMIT SON OF A...and...F...." and voila driver in place.

 

[Kanaris]



Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR /forum/post/14249670


I use my patented technique. JL supplied non slip gloves,and drop the driver in gently.Then scream "OUCH DAMMIT SON OF A...and...F...." and voila driver in place.

 

[KyleLee]

also... a lot of my boxes have PR which are easy to mount on thier own. Leaving thoes for last, the PR hole gives you lots of room for your hand to access the back of the motor as you mount it... usally takes two ppl for the really heavy ones but it gives you complete access to mount, then rotate and align.

 

[JamesK8]



Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEAR /forum/post/14249670


I use my patented technique. JL supplied non slip gloves,and drop the driver in gently.Then scream "OUCH DAMMIT SON OF A...and...F...." and voila driver in place.

I swear I keep thinking that as I look at my LMS Ultra. 80 pounds on my finger does not sound like a lot of fun.

 

[Ricci]

I think Mike's method is the best for mounting the true heavyweight drivers and Kanaris's hook tool looks like a winner for removing them. Thanks for posting that! I'm going to get 1 or 2 of those.

 

[Mark Seaton]

Another good option I've used...


is to make a Woofer Puller/Placer (TM

).


For most of the cast 10-15" frames, a 1/4-20 screw will thread the basket. Depending on the weight, 2-4 screws will be plenty to lift it. You can use a simple rectangular piece of wood, a rectangle with a center cut-out, or a dog-bone shape. Some of the 18" frames have larger holes, but I'd bet some larger bolt size of M8-M10 or 3/8" would thread them.


2 locating pins 180 deg appart are also quite helpful. Be creative and you can use all sorts of things for this.

 

[SteveCallas]

How about making your baffle removable, or at least attaching it last? With a sonosub, I mounted the driver to the bottom end cap first, then attached the tube to the bottom end cap. Problem solved.

 

[Ricci]

In a vaguely related topic. I was thinking about doing a sealed test box with a removable baffle/s for testing different drivers. Something like 8cu ft for 18's (21's?) that could also have blocks(wood?) placed inside to reduce the airspace for smaller drivers. Maybe using weatherstripping to seal the baffle when it's bolted in?

 

[DS-21]



Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCallas /forum/post/14252675


How about making your baffle removable, or at least attaching it last? With a sonosub, I mounted the driver to the bottom end cap first, then attached the tube to the bottom end cap. Problem solved.

That, like Kyle's suggestion, implies making one's own enclosures. I don't, and generally cabinet makers aren't also driver venders. (At least, not for the "right" drivers.) I'm thinking more of a universal thing.

 

[DevilDriver]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd /forum/post/14248744


What about two wires, each looped through two of the mounting holes, so you can drop it in to place and then pull the wire out.

That's exactly what I do. Works great, is super simple, and I've never had a problem with it. Hell, you can use old bailing twine if that's all you've got around.

 

[Willd]



Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilDriver /forum/post/14263015


That's exactly what I do. Works great, is super simple, and I've never had a problem with it. Hell, you can use old bailing twine if that's all you've got around.

I was thinking of twine actually. Or even strong fishing line...but glad to hear that it works well in practice. The theory sounded strong.

 

[armystud0911]

Wouldn't it be really nice if there were a pair or two pair of threaded nuts on the basket for just this, you could eve use the driver mount holes, or make some new ones, whats the big deal if the basket has 12 holes or 8, it would sure make all this mounting drama a lot easier, especially pulling the drivers out. I don't even want to think about trying to pull a 90lb sicko out of its cabinet.

 

[Warpdrv]

hehehe I was just about to make a post on "Driver install / removal - whats your trick"


I struggled a bit with dropping in the TC2K a couple of times, so I thought I would see what you other guys have found to be useful.


Thanks DS-21 for making this thread.. lots of good suggestions.