Man why do people waste such opportunities. Instead of filling that with insulation and putting some boxed subwoofer in the front of the room, why not put your subs into the riser firing into your seating and use all that box space? My riser was large enough air space to handle 4 12" infinite baffle subs. My friend's was large enough for 2 18" infinite baffle subs.
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You should make sure that the riser is open not partitioned but essentially one big air space. Then run speaker wires into there to where your amp will go. For infinite baffle, this is it so long as you have air space.
Your BOSS is great. But in this circumstance, you don't need BOSS. These are *actual* speakers that will have the same physical effect as your BOSS system but also produce the bass sound. BOSS is great when you don't have the air space to do something like this but you still want the tactile feeling. In this case, he does have the air space so this will be like BOSS but will also be the subs. Instead of cheaper 12's it'll be very good quality 18's made for infinite baffle install.
So your riser is 113 cubic feet and is essentially good enough to run 2 18" FI infinite baffle subs or 4 15". The 113 cubics will allow you to run 2 18's with VAS x 6 which will work out great. My friend did 2 18's firing up into his main seating and its just so awesome and aggressive plus infinite baffle gets you down to around 5hz (flat, not rolled off). Since the bass will originate essentially where you're at, you dont need to worry about room NULLs so much at least for your position. Also, since these are so deep and fire into your body, you will find you don't need to turn the bass up as much to be satisfied so it won't transfer as much sound outside the room. 2 18's firing directly into you should be enough bass. My friend's setup is so aggressive it's turned way down. The setup isn't very expensive either. $274 x 2 for the subs, $329 for the amp. That's it.
The other benefits of infinite baffle (besides the best possible sound quality) is that you don't need to build the platform as a carefully sealed sub box. You just build it as a platform. It can be built out of plywood. The underside can be open and just be your floor of your room. You can even cut a hole in it for electrical power outlet for phone charging or such if you want. Infinite baffle only needs to provide rear wave cancellation not a perfectly tuned and sealed box.
Here's my first platform build where I used 4 12's. It was great, although 4 15's would have been great. I should have made the platform 3" taller to handle the 15's. These face forward because my main seating was right in front of the platform. Ignore those 2 buttkickers. I didn't know how awesome the IB's would be. The buttkickers got ripped out and not used because you couldn't tell the difference with and without them.
Here's my friend's that we did with the subs firing up into his couch. The holes are for 18's. The front square hole is actually an extension of the furnace air vent that runs through the platform. Remember, for IB you don't need perfectly sealed platform. The air vent had a duct in it and a grill on it after. Made zero impact on sound.
Here are the subs you'd want for this. They're made especially for this application. https://ficaraudio.com/product/ib3-series-ib318-v2/
If you want to learn more about the benefits of infinite baffle subs in general check out http://www.ibsubwoofers.com/
The key here is you want the speakers firing into your main seats. So if your main seats are on top of the platform, do what my friend did and fire them up. If your main seats are in front of the platform, you'll probably want to go with the 15's so that you can fit them in front pointing right into your main seats. Oh yea, also because the platform is just a platform not a tightly sealed sub box, it'll do a fantastic job shaking the upper row of seats on the platform even if the subs fire forward.
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Wow this is great information and pictures. But I'm not sure how to build it without partitions and still be solid. Unless it is a very thick peice of plywood on top.You should make sure that the riser is open not partitioned but essentially one big air space. Then run speaker wires into there to where your amp will go. For infinite baffle, this is it so long as you have air space.
Your BOSS is great. But in this circumstance, you don't need BOSS. These are *actual* speakers that will have the same physical effect as your BOSS system but also produce the bass sound. BOSS is great when you don't have the air space to do something like this but you still want the tactile feeling. In this case, he does have the air space so this will be like BOSS but will also be the subs. Instead of cheaper 12's it'll be very good quality 18's made for infinite baffle install.
So your riser is 113 cubic feet and is essentially good enough to run 2 18" FI infinite baffle subs or 4 15". The 113 cubics will allow you to run 2 18's with VAS x 6 which will work out great. My friend did 2 18's firing up into his main seating and its just so awesome and aggressive plus infinite baffle gets you down to around 5hz (flat, not rolled off). Since the bass will originate essentially where you're at, you dont need to worry about room NULLs so much at least for your position. Also, since these are so deep and fire into your body, you will find you don't need to turn the bass up as much to be satisfied so it won't transfer as much sound outside the room. 2 18's firing directly into you should be enough bass. My friend's setup is so aggressive it's turned way down. The setup isn't very expensive either. $274 x 2 for the subs, $329 for the amp. That's it.
The other benefits of infinite baffle (besides the best possible sound quality) is that you don't need to build the platform as a carefully sealed sub box. You just build it as a platform. It can be built out of plywood. The underside can be open and just be your floor of your room. You can even cut a hole in it for electrical power outlet for phone charging or such if you want. Infinite baffle only needs to provide rear wave cancellation not a perfectly tuned and sealed box.
Here's my first platform build where I used 4 12's. It was great, although 4 15's would have been great. I should have made the platform 3" taller to handle the 15's. These face forward because my main seating was right in front of the platform. Ignore those 2 buttkickers. I didn't know how awesome the IB's would be. The buttkickers got ripped out and not used because you couldn't tell the difference with and without them.
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Here's my friend's that we did with the subs firing up into his couch. The holes are for 18's. The front square hole is actually an extension of the furnace air vent that runs through the platform. Remember, for IB you don't need perfectly sealed platform. The air vent had a duct in it and a grill on it after. Made zero impact on sound.
![]()
![]()
Here are the subs you'd want for this. They're made especially for this application. https://ficaraudio.com/product/ib3-series-ib318-v2/
If you want to learn more about the benefits of infinite baffle subs in general check out http://www.ibsubwoofers.com/
The key here is you want the speakers firing into your main seats. So if your main seats are on top of the platform, do what my friend did and fire them up. If your main seats are in front of the platform, you'll probably want to go with the 15's so that you can fit them in front pointing right into your main seats. Oh yea, also because the platform is just a platform not a tightly sealed sub box, it'll do a fantastic job shaking the upper row of seats on the platform even if the subs fire forward.
Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
If you plan to build support beams across the platform for stability, make sure there's big openings in them so its one big air space. For example, you could make a partition that spans the front and back 25% but leaves the middle 50% empty, then the next one that spans the middle 50% but leaves the top 25% and back 25% open etc. In any event, even the floor under your house is open and you can crawl around without finding a piece of wood every 15" touching the ground
If your box is 16" tall, you can use 2x6 partition all the way through and have 10" underneath it open for air flow etc.
Well, under my house is a giant cement slab that nothing could crawl underIf you plan to build support beams across the platform for stability, make sure there's big openings in them so its one big air space. For example, you could make a partition that spans the front and back 25% but leaves the middle 50% empty, then the next one that spans the middle 50% but leaves the top 25% and back 25% open etc. In any event, even the floor under your house is open and you can crawl around without finding a piece of wood every 15" touching the ground
. But I get the point - offset the supports. My wife is building it so I'll have to see if she could manage that. It may be too late, I think all the wood is cut.Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
You can always cut big sections out of the wood. It can’t possibly be too late. Even if the platform was completed you could flip it over and cut out 3 feet segments in each support making it a full air box. The last thing to consider is that you need to be able to put the speakers in without hitting supports but that also shouldn’t be a problem.Well, under my house is a giant cement slab that nothing could crawl under
Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
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