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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello there all, newbie here and need to know if this is possible?


I have just purchased a LCD Flat screen and am looking to hang it on the wall and minimize my AV System. I have a Westinghouse 37" flat screen TV, A Sony Receiver, Sony DVD player and a Atlantic Scientific Cable Box. What I want to do is hide the receiver, DVD player and cable box somewhere out of sight. All of these items have IR plugs on the back of them. What I want to know is, if there is a way that I can Control all these items using one IR receiver? So all I have in my family room is my TV mounted on the wall and an IR receiver that will accept the signal from all my remotes. Looking for options, so if anybody has any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated!!!


Thank you all for taking the time to read my post and reply if needed!!!
 

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Easy.....You'll use an IR receiver located wherever you want, some three or four conductor cable (cat5 works fine), an IR connecting block and your emitters.


Quick Demo:

http://www.xantech.com/demo/v2_demo.htm# (click on single zone)


You can use Xantech products or buy a 'canned' kit like the hot link pro:

http://www.smarthome.com/8225p.html


PS....On the hot link pro, don't get suckered into buying the extender cable to move your IR receiver further away. You can just cut the cable and splice in any 3 conductor cable (cat5 is cheap).


Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do I have to use the emitters or can I just connect the block to say my receiver via like a dual male headphone connectors directly into the receiver using the IR outlet on the back?
 

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You can use your existing remotes. That's what the IR extenders are made to do.


If you have an IR input, you can direct connect off the connecting block rather than use an emitter.


Regarding the Hot Link, it has a greater sensitivity than the Xantech so if you don't need a direct line of sight. It will pick up signals bounced off the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I appreciate all your help!!! I hope I don't become a pain. Do you have a dealer I could use to buy these products? Seeing I spent all my money on my TV :D I have to watch my money. It looks like the xantech is cheaper than the Hot Link. Do like the idea that I could hid the IR receiver out of site, but it's not that big of deal.
 

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Actually, the Xantech stuff is more expensive once you add everything up. Besides the receiver and connecting block, you still need emitters.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSRC
Actually, the Xantech stuff is more expensive once you add everything up. Besides the receiver and connecting block, you still need emitters.
No he doesn't....All his equipment has IR inputs, so he'll just need some male-male connectors, which I don't believe comes with the hot link package.


Robert
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertmee
PS....On the hot link pro, don't get suckered into buying the extender cable to move your IR receiver further away. You can just cut the cable and splice in any 3 conductor cable (cat5 is cheap).
Robert, on the Hot Link Pro, do you know if I could cut a peeled emitter wire and splice in another wire to create a longer emitter length? I need to make one of the 7-foot emitter wires into about a 12-foot emitter wire for it to reach my projector in the middle of the room. And I need to make another of the 7-foot emitter wires into a 20-foot emitter wire for it to reach my lighting controller at the back of the room.


Thanks in advance...

ND
 

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I would be careful about assuming that all of your equipment provides IR inputs that are compatible with a standard IR connecting block.


The Sony equipment most likely has S-Link or Control-S inputs, and these are not directly compatible since they are Sony proprietary inputs, and would need to be translated using something like this from Xantech:

http://www.xantech.com/products/i_folder/i_794_797.pdf


Also, the Scientific Atlanta box has an IR blaster output, used to change channels on a VCR, for example, for recording cable TV programs. This is not an IR input. The 8300HD box that I have has a port called IR, but this is documented as being not activated at this time. I even tried connecting this to my IR distribution system, and it did not work.


So, it would appear that you need to use IR emitters for most of your equipment anyway.


-D
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMILANI
I would be careful about assuming that all of your equipment provides IR inputs that are compatible with a standard IR connecting block.


The Sony equipment most likely has S-Link or Control-S inputs, and these are not directly compatible since they are Sony proprietary inputs, and would need to be translated using something like this from Xantech:

http://www.xantech.com/products/i_folder/i_794_797.pdf


Also, the Scientific Atlanta box has an IR blaster output, used to change channels on a VCR, for example, for recording cable TV programs. This is not an IR input. The 8300HD box that I have has a port called IR, but this is documented as being not activated at this time. I even tried connecting this to my IR distribution system, and it did not work.


So, it would appear that you need to use IR emitters for most of your equipment anyway.


-D
Nice Catch, D....I assumed the original poster knew for certain his equipment had hard IR inputs.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ND23
Robert, on the Hot Link Pro, do you know if I could cut a peeled emitter wire and splice in another wire to create a longer emitter length? I need to make one of the 7-foot emitter wires into about a 12-foot emitter wire for it to reach my projector in the middle of the room. And I need to make another of the 7-foot emitter wires into a 20-foot emitter wire for it to reach my lighting controller at the back of the room.


Thanks in advance...

ND
I've only used Xantech, not the Hot Link, but I see no reason why you can't. The IR signals are simply modulated DC, so adding and additional length of wire, as long as it is of the proper gauge to prevent any voltage drop (18 awg should be more than adequate...I used thermostat wire to extend my IR receiver), you should be fine.


Robert
 

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Robert's correct. You can splice into the emitter wire as he mentioned. Just as you can extend to emitters with Cat 5 or similar, you can extend the IR receiving eye foir short distances with coax. If you have any specific questions about the Hot Link uses, just call them at 800-999-8846 and ask for Marcus. He's an expert with this stuff and always glad to help.


Regarding the direct connections, I missed that original statement, but it appears that some emitters would be needed anyway.
 

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Thank you, Mike and Robert. Looks like I'm gonna get a Harmony 880 and a Hot Link Pro. Then I can aim at my component stack, and still operate my projector and my Lutron Grafik Eye lighting controller.


ND
 

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Unless you are in a hurry, you might want to hold off on the Hot link until you get your 880. I bought the 659 and was really surprised at the IR blaster capability. I have an IR receiver on the front wall for my component rack which is in the left rear of the room. My projector is center overhead, and my Grafik Eye is on the right near the back corner. Just by aiming the 659 forward at the IR receiver, it still is able to control the GE and Projector without any IR connections to my IR connecting block at the component rack. That's with the GE at a full 90 degrees away from the remote, and of course the PJ at about 75 degrees up and forward of my position. I had planned on having to run the wire to the PJ and GE, but haven't done so, because the blaster works just fine.


Robert
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertmee
Unless you are in a hurry, you might want to hold off on the Hot link until you get your 880. I bought the 659 and was really surprised at the IR blaster capability. I have an IR receiver on the front wall for my component rack which is in the left rear of the room. My projector is center overhead, and my Grafik Eye is on the right near the back corner. Just by aiming the 659 forward at the IR receiver, it still is able to control the GE and Projector without any IR connections to my IR connecting block at the component rack. That's with the GE at a full 90 degrees away from the remote, and of course the PJ at about 75 degrees up and forward of my position. I had planned on having to run the wire to the PJ and GE, but haven't done so, because the blaster works just fine.


Robert
OK, I'll get the 880 first, and give it a try. Thanks for the tip!


ND
 

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Robermee - awesome theater - and that wiring setup is awesome too.


About the PM I sent you, here is a pic of my theater layout.


-gary
 
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