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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here's the situation ... I am a newbie to HT and have a dedicated room (13' x 11') that I will be using for HT.


For reasons I won't go into, I need to ceiling mount a screen. Electric tab-tensioned would work wonderfully, but at $2k, I don't think I'm prepared to shell out that money first time around.


So, I started thinking about manual pull-down ceiling mount, but the wave issue (see other posts) really bugs me.


So, now I'm thinking of a framed screen, simply hung from the ceiling. Downsides is that I can't get it out of the way quickly (I sometimes need access to BEHIND the screen) compared to the electric and manual pull downs, but upsides is that it is CHEAP (e.g. $500 for 100" diagonal for Cinema Vision) and shouldn't have waves (right?)


So my question is this ... can something like the Perm-wall Da-lite screen be okay to NOT affix directly to a wall, but instead be hung using its top-most frame bar from the ceiling?
 

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I second that question too... I am thinking about getting a grey screen and want to stay away from the "wave" prone HCCW.
 

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Well virtually any fixed frame screen could be made to hang from a ceiling. The Permwall frame would not likely be a rigid enough frame to stay square. You would probably want something more like the DaSnap. It is a 1.5" wide frame and should be plenty strong enough to hang.


Email me if you would like some quotes.


Thanks!
 

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I hesitate to post this, since I haven't built it yet; but I'm faced with a similar challenge. Here's what I've designed so far for my PJ setup:


A swinging screen support (essentially 2 each 1" x 2" x 6' or whatever) hinged at about 4" from the ceiling.


The screen body is a sheet of 4'x8' x 1.5" styrofoam insulation board from Home Depot. Cover the styrofoam board with Joann's blackout cloth (using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive) then paint with the appropriate Screen Goo. Rip strips of a second styrofoam board to make 3" deep trim borders to add rigidity and mask around the screen board. Cover the trim with black or gray fabric from Joann's.


Add some 1" x 2" framing at the bottom to provide some support for the screen as well as allow for attaching to the ceiling (magnetic or clasp) when the screen is swung up and out of the way.


As soon as I finish the fabrication and installation, I'll be able to give some more specifics. I've also designed a pretty simple horizontal screen masking scheme (my projector is 16:9), but I hesitate to describe until I've tried it out.


Chip
 

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I am confused why this is a such a big deal. I have a ceiling mounted screen since mine is in front of a window. Instead of mounting it to the wall, I put two pieces of wood on the back of the frame that extended up an extra 12", then put 'L' brackets on the top of the boards to mount it to the ceiling. I will put up some pics next week when I get my camera back.


If you need it hinged or removable, take some angle iron to mount to the ceiling and then mount some on the top of the frame. Drill a hole in each one and put in a pin with a clevis in it to hold it. I would do at least two brackets so it can be level.


Maybe I am missing something, this seems simple.
 

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As a short-term solution, I'm suspending a piece of parkland plastic from a plastic fence post, which gives it rigidity. Post is hung from ceiling using chain, screw-eyes and turnbuckles which allow a great amount of adjustability. This is temporary so that I can use the PJ when it gets here, aint pretty but will work and cost only $60.


Later I want to make a nice wood-frame one using professional fabric such as HCCV or maybe a stewart material. I read 1x2's are not stiff enough, so one should use something wider. The chains act as a hinge for folding the thing agenst the ceiling when not in use - out of kid range.
 
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