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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just about ready to begin framing my "room within a room" dedicated basement theater. My plan is to move 1/2" in from the existing stud walls (right and rear wall) and existing concrete foundation walls (left and screen wall) and build 4 new stud walls spaced 24" OC.


Questions:


1) Is 1/2" enough spacing? The theory is that nothing will be touching, so if that requirement is met, does the amount of spacing matter?


2) Do I need to attach the new stud walls to any of the existing walls for support or will the room be rigid enough when the sheetrock is in place?


3) I am using 15' 2x8s placed in between the upstairs floor joists for my ceiling joists. I've found a U shaped bracket that I'll use to attach the ceiling joist to the stud walls. You attach the bottom of the bracket to the top of the stud walls, then the 2x8 joist slips in and you screw of nail the two sides of the bracket to the sides of the joist. Any other ideas of securing the joists to the stud walls?


Thanks,

Matt
 

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1) There are at least three reasons to move your new wall away from the existing wall. The first is to prevent contact transmission of sound. The second is to keep your insulation/soundproofing from touching the concrete which could introduce moisture. To answer you question more specifically I believe there is more benefit to moving the new wall further away from the existing concrete wall. The more space between these two walls helps with sound transfer. If you can spare extra room do it.


I like the idea of your U shaped brackets. I would guess that your wall should be strong enough to be free standing, but I'll leave that question for a forum expert.
 

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Piggy-backing on an old thread to ask a similar question.


In a room w/i a room design, where only 2 of the 4 walls are double walls, is the isolation driven by the decoupled design, or the deeper wall cavities? Obviously both help, but from a bang for the buck perspective, is room w/i a room a waste of time if only 2 walls are double wall? (other 2 walls are poured concrete, this is a basement).


The alternative is to do RSIC-V clips on the shared walls and ceiling. Either design will have GG+2 layers of 5/8th" drywall.




My room is small, so I can't afford to double up both walls, but could spare the 4" or so that a double wall is in excess of a RSIC-V assembly. I have 9' ceilings, so that dimension is a non issue (no room for a riser either).


Thanks.
 

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So 2 (blue) walls are original. the other two are up against foundation?
 

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Oh, well then all 4 walls are double wall construction. The foundation wall counts as 1 of the 2 walls.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/15653963


the budget/lifestyle committee.

That's a good one...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_pilgrim /forum/post/15653963


Well - that is a way to look at it. I will plan accordingly. October can't come soon enough (agreed start date with the budget/lifestyle committee).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White /forum/post/15655402


That's a good one...

Is that because if you go past budget your lifestyle takes a serious hit?
 

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Actually, in my case, with two little kids (3 and 4 mos), I am not to be spending all my time in the basement. If that means writing a couple extra checks, so be it. But, she married an accountant, she knows I won't let a hobby put us in a bad spot financially, even if the budget gets a few minor revisions from time to time.
 

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Ted -


This might belong in a separate thread, or the dead vent thread but had a question. I have a small room, but plenty of ceiling height. I plan to put the new joists up perpendicular to the existing ones. I don't need to thread them through to conserve ceiling height.


Assuming I do the joist perpendicular, when running HVAC, I have the ability to put as many turns as I want, since I'll basically be working within a grid. Has any one quantified the using multiple 90 degree turns vs using a muffler similar to the dead vent designs. I could conceivably do both, but was thinking about using the soffits for bass traps.


I guess I am asking if turns in flex is better or worse than changes in duct volume.


Here is a picture of what I am talking about showing 3 turns to each. Arguably 6 turns, since the duct has to either drop down or go up to enter the new joist bay.

 

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Hi Dave,


Great questions. If the Flex duct runs are long, and you include 2-3 bends, you should be fine.
 
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